VENTURING OUT – MICHOACÁN

I’m thinking it was our 4th trip to Patzcuaro, this trip we made last week. It’s comfortable, we know it, we feel at home there now. On arrival, greeted by Hotel Casa Encantada manager Luis, we were invited to upgrade to the “Gran Sala” since our requested room (Ángel) was still occupied. We’re picky. We hang out a lot. So we always ask for a sofa. The Gran Sala has a beautiful great room that looks out onto the street, along with bed and bath. And sofa. Gorgeous! Proprietress Victoria Ryan obtained the property in 1998 and has spent the past 23 years turning it into a charming art-filled Mexican getaway preferred by many, like us, who visit the town. With the plaza a 5 minute walk away it is a perfect location.

After some tacos and a brief look around we headed back to enjoy our room. Our entry into the town had been a bit traumatic for me. Shortly before we hit the main street we encountered a double line of young people wearing hats and a few, masks, 1 or 2 of them pretty scary looking. They were so close together we could barely pass between them, shaking “rattles” and calling out loudly. (Turns out they were students “begging” for financial assistance to continue their education. Whew.) As I was trying to collect myself from this minor trauma we were stopped by 2 policemen, obviously detaining white SUV’s. No English. “I’m not getting out. No español”, I told them nervously. One checked the VIN number on the windshield and the other came to my door motioning to look under the carpet beneath my feet. He wiped a metal plate clean then looked at his partner and said “They’re good.” His partner looked at us with a grin and in English said: “OK. Thanks. You can go.” If he only knew how many horrible stories I’ve read about cops stopping you and making it tough. No pictures on that one.

The next day we wandered out again, heading to the huge plaza that is always buzzing with activity, but not before meeting 2 interesting folks, gringos living in Guanajuato. That’s what I love about Hotel Casa Encantada. You always meet interesting folks. Nancy and Mike asked to join us for breakfast and we were so glad they did. They have friends in Ajijic and considered living here at one point. A great new connection.

It’d been 2 years since we’d visited Pátzcuaro, thanks to Covid, and we saw right away that the place had grown, as had the crowds. Luckily most people wore masks and gel was provided in most business doorways. This plaza is one of the best people-watching places I know of so we wandered through every day and every evening we stopped at the helado (ice cream) vendor and found a bench where we ate our fresh strawberry treat, literally the best I’ve had since childhood hand-cranked days. Though signs tell people to keep off the lush green grass, children (and dogs) are allowed. What fun to see them frolicking, enjoying themselves. I doubt many have that luxury at home. Grassy yards are not commonplace in México except in gringo communities.

This plaza, Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, is one of the largest in México I’m told, a large square with crisscross walkways to a center fountain, surrounded on all 4 sides by rows of businesses, new and old. El Cairo Papelería opened in 1913 and this was the first time I’d found it open to customers. El Asadero had just opened when we visited 2 years ago and we were happy to see it going strong. Simple Mexican food, cafeteria style, offered up by 2 young sisters and their staff. We saw no empty store fronts, only familiar Mexican craft stores, municipal offices, restaurants, etc. Business was booming.

Once again we heard the clacking of wooden shoes on the plaza sidewalks and turned to see a troop of hombres doing La Danza de los Viejitos (The Dance of the Old Men), a traditional Mexican folk dance and favorite scene of mine. This time some little guys were included, increasing crowd approval and photo ops.

It was not uncommon this time to see riders on immaculately groomed and outfitted horses prancing through the streets surrounding the plaza, even one pulling a rose adorned carriage carrying a young woman most likely on her way to the local basilica for her quinceañera mass. The quinceañera is a most important Hispanic tradition of presentan 15 year old girls into local society as adults. The special young woman presents at the cathedral in her carefully chosen dress with her Court of Honor composed of friends of her choice. Following the mass a reception is held with the young lady often performing a specially choreographed dance. Muchos pesos are spent for this big occasion. In fact this was the first of 2 young women we witnessed, the other already at the basilica with a few young women and a line of young men dressed in matching suit jackets. A fine band stood playing outside the church along with a tall young bride-to-be, smiling nervously as she awaited her turn for entering the sanctuary.

On Friday we met our friend and tour guide Jaime from Animecha Tours. Jaime is an encyclopedia of Mexican history and crafts. One of his primary tours is visiting artisan studios and store fronts in small villages surrounding Lake Pátzcuaro. Two years ago we spent 2 delightful days with him meeting many artisans and making many purchases. This time we had specific stops in mind, the first being a workshop in Santa Clara de Cobre where Napoleon and his brothers are third generation prize-winning coppersmiths. Ben had commissioned a piece from them on our last visit and he was anxious to see what new pieces they’d created. He was not disappointed. With a background in metal-smithing himself he understands the effort made to create an award winning piece. This time he came home with just that.

You just never know what you’ll see en route…

From Santa Clara we backtracked around the southern tip of the lake making our way to Ihuatzio, a village dedicated to creating a variety of items with reeds, arte en chuspata, harvested from the boggy edges of the lake. Several years ago an artist from Mexico City taught the artisans here how to weave over metal frames, making each piece more durable. After scoping out 5 different tiendas, in one of which I spotted the exact small table I’d hoped for, we headed back to the first and largest one run by Florencia and Samuel Morales where I sat in numerous chairs looking for comfort and craftsmanship complete with headrest. Bingo! Florencia herself carried my prize to our van.

We moved on to a small ceramics shop with some unusual red clay pieces. We’d originally planned to visit Cocucho, the mountain village specializing in the tall hand-built red clay pots burnished by hand and sporting black spots from the the firing process. But a 2 hour ride one way just didn’t suit us this time. This shop wasn’t quite what we were looking for but was fun nonetheless.

Circling back toward Pátzcuaro Ben asked if there are still any wood carvers around. Of course Jaime would know so on the outskirts of town we pulled up in front of a mass of chunks, trunks, and carvings of wood in front of a taller (workshop) run by el Señor Salvador Vargas Molina. We wandered through room after room packed with “treasures”, supplies, tools, piles of beads, paintings. Unbelievable. One wall was covered with painted wooden hearts which caught my eye as Ben discovered a frame stuck between some, well, I’m not sure what. El Señor and his sons do the carving and daughter Gabriela does the painting. We chose one item each and when Ben asked if they would sign their work, Gabriela disappeared momentarily, returning with a ballpoint pen and signing for both of them. A fine conclusion to our day of travels.

Heading toward the hotel we passed a group of seated protestors sitting under a shelter next to the railroad tracks – note that the train is only used for transporting products in México, not for people – with large signs hanging from the overhanging rooftop. Back at the hotel Luis explained that these were teachers, on strike due to withholding of their pay by ?. Let’s leave it at that.

We decided to look for new restaurants. Dang, veggies are so hard to find in Mexican restaurants. Ben found positive reviews for Verde Limone located not far from the Plaza Grande. A delight. Seemingly run by a group of young women with a sleek modern theme and classy food. Our friend Sydney (in Nebraska!) directed us away from town toward the embarcadero where you can catch a boat to the only island in the lake, Janitzio. (Next time.) On a side street a 50 minute walk from the hotel we found a jungle-like entrance with no sign. This was Tiendita Verde, an organic restaurant and store. Another delightful find.

Before heading out we decided to try a different way home, through the Nahuatzen mountains, indigenous land of the Purépecha people of Michoacán, catching the toll road at some distant point. We wound our way through some of the very artisan villages we had visited with Jaime then moved farther into the lush green mountains footed by fields of pink, blue, yellow and red wildflowers. A sight to behold. It reminded us of our mountains back in North Carolina, the very ones I had grown up in. Michoacán is truly a beautiful state. We’d heard in the past that we should avoid Uruapan due to cartel traffic but that is no longer an issue according to Jaime. Two large craft festivals take place in the state, one during Easter week (Santa Semana) in Uruapan and one in Pátzcuaro for Day of the Dead (Día de Los Muertos). Many festivals were put on hold all over Mexico these past 2 years but we’re told Pátzcuaro will once again hold its festival November 2nd though there may be some restrictions.

From the town of Zacupa, altitude 6500′ and population over 55,000, through the Cerro del Tecolote mountain range, we found our connection to the cuota (toll road), continuing the beautiful drive home. The tolls are not cheap (maybe $40-$50 each way) but the roads are well maintained and safe with gorgeous campo (countryside) to boot.

Home again, with our new prize possessions, we wonder how we could possibly manage any more “stuff”. But then I remember that this is not typical “stuff” and that supporting the handmade craft artisans of México is part of the reason we moved here, having been part of the artisan community in the US. So I know there will be more trips to the villages surrounding Lake Pátzcuaro and other areas of México we’ve yet to visit. And that’s OK.