TAPALPA – LAND OF COLORS

The town of Tapalpa lies 1800′ above Lake Chapala at a height of 7200′, nestled in the evergreen forests and rolling meadows of the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains, a favored weekend spot for Guadalajarans and others seeking a cool mountain getaway. Taking the beautiful scenic toll road 54D just beyond Lake Chapala toward Colima through a shallow “dry” lakebed, you see knobby red volcanic rocks partially submerged in shimmering silver water, egrets feeding, and sea birds taking respite on their journey. Some say the lake is a mirage, but these things tell me otherwise.

The name Tapalpa comes from the Nahuatl word “tlapalpan” meaning “land of colors.” We were told fields would be full of flowers and they were. Roadsides going up the mountain were packed with wildflowers spilling over into meadows dotted with yellow sunflowers, pink comos, purple salvia, and scatterings of orange, red, and yellow flowers I’d never seen before. Gorgeous!

Though the Spanish arrived in 1523, Tapalpa was not registered as a town until 1825. In 2015 the census of the town proper was 5,566, with an additional 14,000 in the surrounding municipality.

In 1840 the first paper factory in Latin America was opened in Tapalpa but was shut down in 1923. Its abandoned ruins have become a local tourist attraction. Other attractions include a 345 ‘ waterfall (Salto del Nogal) and a mysterious scattering of huge boulders dumped across rolling fields (Las Piedrotas). Woodland cabins and hiking trails on the mountainsides are popular places.

Unlike many other towns in Mexico, Tapalpa’s architecture includes wooden doors, beams, and ceilings due to the abundance of forest land. Its traditional buildings have white facades with terra cotta roofs and red trim. There are six traditional public fountains (pilas) where people used to get their daily water, some of the six memorialized, others seemingly forgotten as the town has moved toward more modern ways. Tapalpa was the 5th of 83 towns to be designated Pueblo Mágico by the Board of Tourism. These “Magical Towns” are awarded their status based on natural beauty, cultural riches, and historic interest. Like most Mexican towns, shops, restaurants, and, in this case, two churches, outline the town plaza where locals and visitors alike stroll along talking and laughing while children ride bikes and visit the ice cream and snack vendors.

The Temple of San Antonio was built by the Spanish Franciscans in 1650. It is noted for its large vaulted ceiling. The construction of the Church of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe began in 1950 due to damages to the old Temple, which now serves as a museum of sorts. Contributions of the locals paid for the construction of the new church, built almost entirely of red brick.

On a leisurely stroll we rediscovered one of our favorite restaurants, La Cuachula, where regional food is cooked by Gaby and her mother, Gaby. The slapping of hands told us the tortillas were fresh. Best Mexican tacos I’ve ever tasted. Only three tables. Outside. Crazy busy. Afterwards, walking by some village shops, I encountered an elderly lady with a basketful of dulces (candies) and couldn’t resist taking her picture after buying a few goodies. She giggled then bowed her head and crossed herself after kissing the 100 peso bill I gave her. I hope others helped her that day. Tapalpa is well known for its preserved fruits and jams, which we’d enjoyed on our last visit, so we wandered until we found them again. Local pride in displaying their wares is delightful.

From our hotel window and the town plaza we were lucky enough to see Nevado de Colima fairly clearly. This is an inactive volcano and part of a complex of three that includes one of Mexico’s two active volcanoes (Colima) three miles away. Nevado, or Tzapotépetl, is quite impressive at 14,015′.

Since most of our travel in Mexico has to do with the country’s wealth of fine crafts, our next venture was to search for local artisans. I’d seen a wool shop on our last visit and searched for it again. With two woolen shops side by side, I chose the one with the welcoming doorway. The pristine little shop serving as entrance to the family home was filled with handwoven and knitted goods from local wool. Most things seemed too heavy for Ajijic weather until Rosario, the shopkeeper/weaver representing the family of José Delgado, tossed a lightweight throw over my shoulders. Soft as butter. I’ll take it!

Next stop was the huarachero, master of famous huaraches, Nicolás Lizares. We knew it was close so I stopped a shopkeeper in her doorway and asked if she knew him. Her face brightened – Si! She led us around the corner, pointed ahead and used her hands to indicate motorcycle handles. “Vroom! Vroom! she said. Allí (there).” A block away was a motorcycle in front of a doorway. We knocked on the door and as a smiling Mexican woman opened her door for us, a middle-aged man pulled up outside on a 4-wheeler (cuatrimotos are the perfect vehicle for zipping around the countryside), dressed in “farm clothes” and a Harley-Davidson cap. We’d found our man.

We never asked his name, though we knew he was not the older man in the picture I’d found earlier. Here was the son of the Master. Trained by his now absent (?) father. He spoke no English but his son-in-law did and kindly interpreted for us. The studio was a mess but the huarachero was jovial and charming. Though he only makes huaraches to order, a few samples sat nearby. Ben picked out a style and color, the huarachero drew a pattern of his foot, Ben wrote his contact information inside the lines, and delivery was promised within three weeks.

There is something quite amazing about visiting artisans in their home studios. It is a connection like no other. I come closer and closer to buying only from them whenever possible. Supporting them brings me joy and the energy of these handmade items, with traditions stretching back for decades, is unmatched by any store-bought item.

Two nights in Tapalpa isn’t nearly enough, but in this time of Covid it was a good way to get our traveling feet wet. The ride home was a quiet one, filled with sights of the gorgeous landscape of Mexico. I’ll be glad when we can venture out even further, but this was a good start.