Margaret left a couple of weeks ago now. My dear friend/“sister” from St. Thomas, VI. We bonded years ago (1996) while working in an Asheville, North Carolina, nursing home. We hadn’t seen each other since October 2019 so we were long overdue and excited. What better way to welcome her back – and to take my first “big adventure trip” since Ben’s death – than to spend a few days in our beloved Pátzcuaro in the mountains of the state of Michoacán. If you’ve been following me these past 4 years you know I love it there.
I’d heard people talk about the wonderful luxury buses available for travel to many destinations, comfortable and less expensive than flying, allowing you to take in more of the landscape than driving so I decided to add that element to our adventure. (For now I have no intention of driving any distance on my own or with another woman, though that may change in time). A local travel agent made it easy to plan the to and fro and I hired a driver to take us to the bus stations in Guadalajara and Morelia. The wonderful staff at Hotel Casa Encantanda (my home away from home) arranged a taxi from Morelia to “Patz”. So we were set. Until nausea kicked in for me on the wobbly, OK-but-not-luxurious bus to Morelia that was an hour and a half late. That 3 and a half hour ride seemed to take forever, followed by a 1 hour taxi ride to the hotel and an uncomfortable evening.
Even so, returning to the hotel was comforting and calming. Our suite was gorgeous. One large room on the second floor divided by custom-made sliding wooden doors, bathroom with a shower, 2 sinks and lots of storage, overlooking the back terrace and the room Ben and I had always stayed in. I just couldn’t bare to stay in that room without him and we wanted separate areas anyway so Árbol was perfect. Thank you Victoria and Luis, as always.
We ate our first meal at El Patio, a favorite for myself and Ben, and enjoyed a brief meetup there with Sydney Lynch, retired jeweler and friend from Nebraska, who frequents Pátzcuaro. Afterwards the plaza drew us in as we watched workers begin to disassemble the animal figures from a greater than life-size crèche. The complete assembly must have been amazing. The pile of shaved reed ducks brought back the memory of visiting one artisan by Lake Pátzcuaro with Animecha Tours guide Jaime Banderas, watching as the artist grinned through the whole 30 minute transformation of a tightly bound hank of local reeds into a duck complete with “feathers”. The camel was amazing with its twirls of reed. Reeds are plentiful by Lake Pátzcuaro and the locals put them to good use. But the best for me, the thing that brought smiles and giggles, was the flock of sheep with their clueless faces and curls of reed “string”. Wish I’d brought one home.
Remembering how Ben and I loved the local museum I hauled Margaret up the hill to the old monastery to take in the fascinating history of the town and nearby lake. The Museum of Arts and Crafts (and tools) of the native Purépecha people is housed in a gorgeous 16th century building between 2 of the town basilicas. Friendly locals just setting up for the day pointed us into each room after waving us in without taking our entry money. It was a sweet return for me, just as fascinating the 2nd time.
Margaret willingly followed me to some of my other favorite places for food including, on our last morning, the Don Jenaro Chocolatería where handmade chocolate drops or tablets are whipped into a creamy froth with a traditional molinillo and served piping hot in hefty mugs. Another sweet memory. The hole in the wall cafeteria off the plaza, El Asadora, is still going strong, with the same friendly owner. And of course the delicious breakfast and hot coffee at Hotel Casa Encantada consistently kick started our mornings.
Shopping has always been a favorite pastime for Margaret and myself and Pátzcuaro is not lacking in interesting shops full of linens, crafts, clothing, jewelry, candy, carved/painted hearts with Milagros (“miracles”-charms used as symbols to wish others good luck, good health, and hope for the future). I’d set my mind on a lightweight bedspread and had no trouble finding it though I should say that white wasn’t quite what I’d been looking for. Along with napkins and a table runner. Pátzcuaro is famous for its carved wooden hearts decorated in a thousand ways. I’ve started my collection… A shop owner on the plaza directed us – in Spanish – to the candle shop (Taller Artesanal below) when I saw candelabras like the ones I’d purchased on an earlier trip. We found it, after a bit of milling around, and found the large diameter candles I wanted, along with a million different sizes, plus other icons of worship for the nearby Catholic churches.
La Tradicion was a magical restaurant when Ben and I stumbled upon it a few years ago and ended up watching as the famous cook was being filmed for her TV show while we were served a most authentic regional meal. Returning there with Margaret was sweet, joyful. I was so happy to take her there. As we sat waiting for a server the famous Victoria’s husband proudly displayed her “certificate of merit” to us and chattered in Spanish as she sat on the other side of the near empty restaurant busy with papers. But disappointment soon followed. It was Thursday and technically they’re only open Friday through Sunday so maybe that was the problem. Everything we had, from tostadas to chili rellanos to margaritas, was tasteless, drab and lukewarm. Victoria was pleased to see a picture we’d had taken with her when Ben and I were there last but otherwise the whole event was a bust. (Whereas tacos at Casa del Naranjo restaurante were some of the best I’ve ever eaten – a pleasant surprise on Wednesday when most places were closed. Thanks for that tip Sydney.)
We took our time wandering to the market. So many beautiful tiendas on the way. Rummaging through the open air market took some time. We spent an hour or so there digging around, up one aisle and down the other, until we finally went into the interior stalls where we discovered the fish market along with multiple stands of baskets, cheap but decent rebozos (long woven rectangular pieces of fabric with a million uses) and other goodies. (See the “Borderlore” link below for an interesting article on this once staple item of Mexican culture. February 2020.) Clerks were mostly middle-aged women, many wearing the local handmade aprons typical of the area. Not much of a crowd there so we got a lot of attention and were happy to make a few small purchases.
The ice cream stand at one end of the plaza was truly a “sweet return”, a favorite of Ben’s, with multiple flavors locally made. The Plaza de Vasco Quiroga plaza is the second largest in Mexico I’m told, the only one in the country without a church as centerpiece, and always bustling with activity of one form or another. Families and dogs delight in stretches of grass and sidewalk along with benches and a central fountain.
New to me was the upscale jewelry shop near one corner of the plaza that features only Mexican artisan’s work. Wish I’d taken pictures. I did manage to snap the plexiglass fish hanging from the ceiling of the shop which is actually what drew us in. I’d done my buying for the day but Margaret was pleased with her pair of bees! No gold there but Ben would’ve appreciated the variety of quality work. I will return.
Our driver back to Morelia, Ruben, another tip from Sydney, was delightful. Again our bus was late – a luxurious double decker – but our pickup in Guadalajara was, thankfully, flexible. And we were thankful indeed for his attitude when we left the Guadalajara bus station only to be caught up in a major traffic jam due to – we eventually found out – an event going on several miles ahead. There was so much stop and start that Kryzstof’s car overheated and we had to pull off. We’d had one meal all day and were grateful that he was familiar with the local grocery store for a snack and a pit stop. Our hour ride took 3 and even though Krzysztof smiled and was gracious the entire time, we were all glad when he dropped us off at my house.
The rest of Margaret’s stay was low key and relaxing. We rearranged the living room – another thing we’ve always done together – took some walks and enjoyed some good food. We were both tired when she left but it was worth it and I think she’d agree that our bond was strengthened more than ever. She will always be the “sister” I never had. Hopefully our visits won’t be so far apart from now on. Tumi adored her and stuck close so he’ll be glad to see her again too.
I hope to go back next year, spend a month in one of Victoria’s apartments, take Tumi, enjoy the quiet, slower pace. Combined with having my dear friend by my side this visit was the sweet return I had hoped for, the oasis of peace I needed. There are other plans for travel this year…Oaxaca, Mexico City, and hopefully Chiapas. Maybe even a weekend at the beach. But I know for sure (as sure as anyone CAN, that as long as I am in México I will always return to Pátzcuaro.
https://www.hotelcasaencantada.com
https://animecha.webnode.mx/products/owner/
And the remembrances of Ben are nice.
Beautifully photographed Chris. I enjoyed hearing about you and Margaret’s time together in Patzcuaro. That landscape photo is breathtaking. I also like hearing about the rebozo and the Collectivo in the addendum.
Gracias!