Frida Kahlo is an icon here in Mexico. You cannot visit any town or city without seeing her image somewhere. I’ve read her biography (there are dozens of books about her, including one for kids), watched the movie with Salma Hayek 3 times, and seen a comprehensive show of her work in Rome, Italy. She is definitely a hero of mine. What was so special about her? And what would she think of being an icon in the twenty-first century?
For Hazie
Magdalena Carmen Frida Kahlo y Calderón was born in Coyoacán central México in 1907 to a German/Hungarian father and a Spanish/Native American mother. She suffered with polio as a young child, exacerbated in her teenage years by a trolley accident on her way home from pre-med school which left her with lifelong injuries. She endured numerous surgeries and taught herself to paint during her recovery periods. After recovering she joined the Communist party and encountered Diego Rivera, whom she’d met earlier when he was painting a mural in her prep school auditorium.
Parting gift from a friend
And another bag
From San Miguel market
Market find/tin frame
It was Diego, an accomplished muralist, who realized Frida’s talent and encouraged her to continue painting. They married in 1929. Soon after she adopted the indigenous Tehuana dress that became her signature look: flowered headdress, chunky jewelry, and colorful, loose blouses combined with long ruffled skirts. In her earlier days at home, Frida played with her identity, appearing once in a family photo in a man’s suit with slicked back hair.
Image on my mouse pad
Thanks to Sol Mexicano
Found in San Miguel
After traveling in the US with Diego, 2 miscarriages and the death of her mother turned Frida to a less traditional style of painting. Some called her a surrealist, but Diego said that she painted from her heart. Her life of pain, both physical and emotional, became apparent.
(Thanks to Sol Mexicano gallery)
In 1933 the couple returned from the US to Mexico City to separate studios/homes joined by a “catwalk”. As Communists and political activists they hosted many famous figures from the art and political worlds. During this time Frida painted prolifically with encouragement from well-known artists, exhibiting her work in Paris and New York, and establishing herself as a feminine force in a patriarchal world.
Found in a San Miguel restaurant
By 1939 Diego and Frida had divorced after a tumultuous 10 years, both having had numerous affairs. In 1940, however, they reconciled and moved into her family home in Mexico City. During their time there her health begin to decline and she turned to alcohol and drugs for relief. She continued to paint numerous self-portraits even while once again enduring countless hospitalizations and surgeries.
Another restaurant find
In 1953 Frida attended her first solo show in Mexico lying in a bed, the only way she could be there. She died in her home in 1954, reportedly due to a pulmonary embolism.
Thanks to Onja & the NC Museum of Art, Raleigh
Frida’s family home, CASA AZUL (Blue House), in México City, is a much loved museum today, and a testimony to the love and respect Frida and Diego had for the indigenous peoples of Mexico. Before his death Diego requested that his bathroom and Frida’s not be touched for a period of 15 years. Only recently have these rooms been opened, treasures found and catalogued. (See SELF PORTRAIT IN A VELVET DRESS.)
Handmade doll
At Hacienda del Lago in Ajijic my friend Diane and I met Priscila Aloneida, a 27 year old artist trained in Guadalajara. When I asked – so you like Frida? – her face lit up. (About Rivera, not so much. “He was a communist.”) “For us she is a hero, for women and artists of Mexico.” She wouldn’t like all the commercialism, do you think? “She wouldn’t mind. She changed everything for us.” Priscila is a delightful young Mexican woman, full of enthusiasm, talent, and wisdom not always encountered in one so young. She currently travels the world painting murals wherever she is asked to go. How does your mother feel about that? I asked. “When I called in the beginning to tell her I wanted to go to Morocco, she said no. There were many phone calls. Then one day I said – Mama, I want to go to Morocco. And finally she said – So go!” And she’s been going ever since. I hope her mother is proud. Frida would be.
We were so happy to welcome my dearest friend of 20+ years to our home last week. She came a long way – from St. Thomas, Virgin Islands – to visit us and see our new home. It felt so good to pick up right where we left off when we saw each other 2 years ago. We did our best to show her the routine things and some of the highlights of our life here in Mexico. Friends, markets, the Malecón, Chapala, restaurants, and an overnight visit to Mazamitla. So come along as I recap our visit.
After resting up from a 3-legged flight with numerous delays, we took Margaret to the Wednesday tianguis (market) then met friends at Go Bistro! for dinner. Lovely place with nice atmosphere and yummy food.
Next day we were off to show her Chapala, our nearby town of about 35-40,000 residents, with a strong Mexican flavor and a beautiful malecón. A weekend destination for Guadalajarans, Chapala was once a short term home for Tennessee Williams while writing A Streetcar Named Desire. Recent rains brought in fields of lyria, land-locking small fishing boats for weeks. The market in Chapala is open daily, stocked with meat, vegetables, cheese, candies, fruit, etc. as well as several outdoor eateries, a great spot for authentic food and people watching.
Stuck in the lyria
Freedom!
Farm eggs @ the mercado
Processing peppers
Limonade on the way
Market flowers
Huge rounds of queso fresco
Chapala cathedral
Maybe this is the wifi issue!
In an effort to find another source of authentic Mexican food – Ajijic more often caters to gringo tastes – we found our way to Viva México Restaurante, where the food and service are always top notch. A new place opened in Ajijic recently and we found it pretty tasty! El Sombrero, former furniture display room, with an owner from the Yucatan, now serving to please!
Driving toward Mazamitla we traveled past the berry growing town of Jocotepec on the west end of Lake Chapala, with beautiful views of the mountains and lake. Once we arrived at our destination we quickly figured out that the “sleepy mountain town” isn’t so sleepy on Sundays. But we enjoyed our little cabins and walks to town, nonetheless, especially on Monday when the crowds had cleared.
Jocotopec from the highway
Great place!
Hotel entrance
Our cabin
Nature’s perfection
A real orchard
Crafts @ the Hotel
Resident goats
Hillside vista
Captured on the way
Mazamitla (Nahuatl for “place where deer are hunted with arrows”) is a mountain town in the state of Michoacán, established in 1165 by the Aztecs. The evergreen and deciduous forests contribute to its architecture which includes wooden beams, doorways, stair rails, and balconies, atypical for México. This “get away” town is mostly known for its unusual cathedral, built around the mid-20th century and believed to have been influenced by Chinese architecture. The sanctuary was packed when we visited on Sunday so we didn’t go inside but outside by the entrance I found a heart-shaped container for depositing bottle caps for charities.
Wandering through el Centro there was much to see. Street vendors and the town market caught our attention most. Colors, colors, everywhere, inside and out. Neat and orderly store shelves packed with kitchen items, candy, garden supplies, you name it. And food, always food. La Troje Restaurante is highly rated for its food and service. It’s a busy place where the walls are covered with pictures of movie stars. It’s popular with visiting Mexicans and gringos alike.
Prickly chayotes
Baby pig anyone?
Food truck!
Busy restaurant
Yum…
and yum!
Quiet OUTside only
Playhouse for Hazie?
Aw, shucks!
My favorite store
Bulk foods
and bagged
Need anything?
Love these
Town market
Scrapping cactus paddles
Lunch time!
Not much left
Meat truck
Purapécha corn cakes
Heading home on a gorgeous Monday. We saw this little village on our way up the mountain and decided to check it out on the way back. “The apple of peace” is a sweet and friendly little village, mostly quiet with few people milling about. We’ll go back sometime and stick around a bit.
La Manzanilla
Cathedral central
Town streets
Dedicated to…?
Alterations?
Town cornfield
Bullfights are history
A sweet ride home. Beautiful scenery with little traffic. The clouds lie on the mountaintops nearly every day, in incredible formations. We’ve craved quiet lately with construction going on on 3 sides. We’re searching for our next dwelling. For a few minutes I thought I saw it…here on the other side of the lake, with only the sound of a gentle breeze.
Traveling home
We live across the lake
It was hard to tell Margaret good-bye, we so rarely see each other. It’s been 2 years and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever was rearing its ugly head last time we were together, unbeknownst to me (until after she left). Two friends, close as sisters, bumping into each other every year or two, picking up where we left off each time. We both chose life “outside the box”, in far away places. Neither of us content with the status quo. We’ve both experienced a lot, learned a lot. And I hope it will always be that way, picking up the threads each time we meet. Adios, mi hermana! Hasta luego! Thank you for coming.
Independencia…70th birthday (Ben’s)…family and friends…September was time to celebrate!
Every year in September Mexico celebrates its independence from Spanish rule. A long weekend is filled with festivals, parades, contests, dancing, special food, and “El Grito”, the battle cry for independence. Raised in 1810 by Miguel Hidalgo, the battle cry stirred the citizens to fight for freedom in a war that lasted over eleven years. All over Mexico the recitation of Hidalgo’s speech occurs at the same time on Independence Day Eve (September 15th): delegados, mayors and even the country’s president recite the famous battle cry known as “El Grito”. Crowds of Mexicans gather in plazas around the country to hear the famous words. Es muy importante para Méxicanos!
Ben celebrated his 70th birthday for days it seemed. But the highlight was a party of fifty guests held in the home of our friend Judy Miller, who’s sister Carla was celebrating her birthday as well. We’re still a bit amazed at the number of people we’ve connected with already. And we loved it that Ben’s sister Melanie and her husband joined us from Oregon. A good time was had by all!
Aryton @ DHARMA
Mezcal tasting
Café Dominech
Art installation
Artist-Guad student
Hanging by a thread
And the fun continued! Beautiful weather. Great for exploring the town of Chapala.
And in the midst of it all – Global Climate Strike. A “celebration” of sorts as young and old step forward to raise awareness and demand action on the state of our world. I had reached out looking for folks interested but got very little response. With company coming and a party to organize I just didn’t have time to make something happen. But two days before the Strike an email arrived from Democrats Abroad announcing a gathering of support on the day after the international Strike. I was only able to go for thirty minutes before the party but it was wonderful to be part of the small crowd that stood on the street (Carretera) with signs as passersby waved and honked their allegiance. It was exhilarating!
We’re moving into October now. The temperatures are lovely – apologies to those of you suffering in North Carolina. The vibrant green of the mountains is losing a bit of its luster though small trees provide patches of fragrant yellow flowers dot the hillside. We are grateful.
A new ceiling next-door
My new office view
We’ve been here ten months now. The building going on around our rental house is increasing along with the accompanying noise of hammers and saws. We’re contemplating our next move. Feeling a bit steadier on our feet, speaking a bit more Spanish, it is nearly time to find another home. The thought of moving is “unsettling” but not nearly as daunting as ten months ago. Life is good here. Not perfect. But good. We’ll see what’s next. Meanwhile, VIVA MÉXICO!
16 year old Greta Thunberg landed in the US recently after crossing the ocean from Sweden in a zero emissions boat, avoiding the oversized carbon footprint of long distance flying. It must have been a true assault on her senses to go from the sounds of the ocean to the chaos of New York City. “What is the difference in thinking about climate change here and in Sweden?” interviewer Trevor Noah asked her. “Here (in the US) people think ‘ I believe it’ or ‘ I don’t know if I believe it’. In my country we know it is true.”
“Why do you think it’s such an issue for younger people?” “Some older people say ‘I’ll be gone anyway so screw it’, but it’s our future.”
According to Greta – and don’t doubt that she has her facts straight – 200 species go extinct EVERY DAY…EVERY DAY. And we have only 8 1/2 years to turn things around. Some say it is already too late.
Noah to Greta: What is the ONE thing you would have people do? Greta: EDUCATE THEMSELVES.
I am hopeful that the articles and links below will help inform you:
On September 20th and 27th (bracketing the UN Action Climate Summit) teachers, students, and employees will walk out (or call out) of class or work to stand with the GLOBAL CLIMATE STRIKE (https://globalclimatestrike.net/) and FRIDAYS FOR FUTURE (https://www.fridaysforfuture.org/). Adults are being asked to stand with the strikers, forcing the issue that “business as usual” will no longer solve our problems. At this point the future of the upcoming generations is in the hands of the world’s political leaders. We MUST get their attention.
On September 21st people all over the world will come together for World Cleanup Day (https://www.worldcleanupday.org/). My day was planned before I knew about this event so here’s what I’ve decided to do: I will email and message family and friends (ahead of time) asking everyone to spend TWO hours that morning cleaning up their streets, parks, creeks, rivers, etc. as a show of faith for the Global Climate Strike and Mother Earth. JOIN ME. GATHER YOUR FRIENDS AND LOVE YOUR MOTHER!
There is much to be said. But I leave you with the above for now. Stay tuned!
The town of Pátzcuaro (pats-kwaro) lies about three and a half hours from Ajijic, a gorgeous drive on an excellent tolled highway. Part of the thrill for me was going into geography that looks very much like the mountains of North Carolina where I was born and spent many years, though twice as high at 7200′. The colonial town of Pátzcuaro (or PTZ) was established around 1320 and has become a mecca for tourists and craft collectors. The indigenous people and crafts of the area give it a special old town feel. Lago (Lake) de Pátzcuaro is within sight and surrounded by small villages well known for various Mexican crafts. With the Spanish Conquest came “Tata Vasco” (Father Vasco) who assured that each village specialized in a specific craft, removing the element of competition and at the same time offering them a livelihood. After checking into Victoria Ryan’s beautiful B & B Hotel Casa Encantada, we were privileged to spend 3 delightful days with tour guide Jaime Hérnandez of Patzcuaro Magic Tours as he gave us a broad sampling of a few lakeside villages. Let me introduce you:
Victoria Ryan, PropriatressHotel Casa EncantadaJaime HérnandezOur view from insideOur view from outsideLake Pátzcuaro
So much to tell. Our first morning there we ventured into town, just a block or so away, and strolled through the 3 town plazas centered around churches. The main plaza is one of the largest in Mexico, providing a place for lovers, musicians, demonstrators, dancers, students, and anyone else interested in being out and about. Restaurants and craft stores, strollers, and performers abound.
Main plaza
Shoe store-from the 50’s?Washing machines?Street foodSide streetEl PatioA favorite restaurant
Friday afternoon. Visited the wonderful cultural museum where the guide spoke very little English but was patient with my Spanish. One of my favorite rooms was filled with indigenous clothing, some of which we saw in the streets. Afterward, time to eat. La cena. We went to a restaurant we’d seen earlier but the door was closed, though not bolted. I stepped over and said “Hola” to the gentleman in the window. He excused himself from his meeting (oops!) and invited us inside. Turned out they were filming a TV show of famous regional cook Victoria Gonzalez Chavez and we were the only customers. Seated in a narrow central room we had a birdseye view of the filming while enjoying THE best Mexican food I’ve ever had. The manager, Eloy, was most gracious, as was his staff, who waited on us patiently as we did our best to interpret the Spanish menu. Señor Eloy rushed into the room to check on us while the TV crew rearranged for the next set. Luckily one of the crew spoke English and informed us that the manager was apologizing for leaving us “isolated” and hoped we enjoyed our meal. We went back a few days later hoping to thank him but ended up leaving a card instead. What a fun adventure!
Señora Chavez
Awards
Choices
Chili rellanos
Ricardo our waiter
Stewed guanabana
Here she comes!
Now, let’s go see the artisans! First on the docket, Santa Clara del Cobre.
Napoleon-coppersmithHis workshopLearning silverUnfinished lampshade Demonstration studio
Kids being filmed, copper museum, and carnitas on the street!
Village streetGetting readyTake #1!
Cuanojo – Though famous for brightly painted furniture, the latest version of which includes characters from the movie COCO, we went to visit Jaime’s “secret treasure”, Nati. Nati’s small concrete block house with outdoor kitchen is at the end of a small dirt foot trail, surrounded by cornfields. Her award winning belts are created on her backstrap loom AFTER she hoes the corn and makes her tortilla dough for the day. Nati is “disabled” by a clubfoot and must always use crutches, but her smile is a mile wide as she welcomes us into her home. I walk away with one of her prize belts, adorned with complex prehispanic symbols, patterns Nati carries in her head and teaches her family with cardboard, string, and sticks.
Teaching boardBoth happy!
Tupataro – Home of a 18th century church filled with history and legends, brought to life by our guide Jaime. An effort to preserve the amazing church dictates only one photo per visitor. The ceiling decoration began in 1725 and was used as a “brochure” for educating the indigenous population and winning them to Christianity.
Tupataro churchPainted ceiling
Quiroga – Named after the Catholic “bishop” Vasco Vázquez de Quiroga who fought for fair treatment of the indigenous populations after the Conquest. We visited a family who creates candelabras and incense holders for local churches.
Santa Fe de la Laguna – Home of Nicolás Fabián and Rosario Fermín, internationally known potters. And two of the kindest people I’ve ever met. Rosario is a revered cook and her cocina shows it. She’s been invited to Ajijic to cook at a celebration in December. Hoping to see her!
Also home of the first “Pueblo Hospital”, a gathering place for indigenous residents, founded in 1533 by “Tata” Vasco Quiroga and run by a council of elder men. At a ceremony each Friday a newly wed couple is chosen to clean the church and replace the flowers for the week. Outside the women gather in celebration, cooking for the entire week, though not this week. And one more secret treasure – this Santa Fe is home of the people who inspired the characters for COCO.
Tzintzuntzan – Home of the hummingbirds. Here we visited the award winning potters Luis Manuel Morales Gamez, who has shifted to more modern designs, then Guadalupe García Rios, who creates her own line of ceramics with her daughters (and grandchildren). We came away with only small items as prices run high here.
Manuel
Modern styles
Older work
Guadalupe “Lupita”
Grandchildren’s forms
Bagged clay from the mountains
Around the lake then to a women’s embroidery cooperative run by Teófila and Bertha Servín. I’d been looking for “storytelling” embroidery and found it here in abundance. Exquisite work.
Tocuaro – Home of Felipe Horta, master mask maker. Avocado and copal wood are used for the masks as they are abundant, lightweight, and easy to work with. December brings a special event where the “3 wise men” travel from home to home to visit baby Jesus in the family creche. But, wait! Who’s that masked man getting in the way??? It’s the Devil, who wants no part of Jesus worshiping!
Felipe’s streetFelipe HortaOne of these is Ben’s now “Bad” guy costumes
“Jimmy” Horta’s studio was our next stop. Ear to ear smile while he showed us the technique he invented for carving reeds into figures. Delightful!
Pato moved to Ajijic!
Uneamich is a furniture factory that used to employ 300 locals. It now has 60 employees. The painted furniture and accessories there are beautifully done and can be custom ordered. Painters Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera once visited this town. Even now, the streets bustle.
Jacucuaro – This town was an island until the 1970’s when a dam was built connecting it to nearby villages. Reeds are abundant along the water’s edge and are collected for use in other towns. But here the hat-makers use palm fibers grown in hotter areas of Michoacán. Many are employed here, young and old alike, to split, braid, bundle, and transport the palms for hat-making. The smaller the braid, the finer the hat. If you want to show off at a celebration, you buy the best. $20-$30. Erasmo Bautista is doing well. He has a new studio and nicer home than most of the artisans we visited.
Back in Pátzcuaro the markets bustle. So much to see and smell. Funny, a local warned us not to eat the street food there. After sharing his reasons I was glad I hadn’t been tempted!
Notes of interest along the way…
Purépecha language
Encantada
History
Biblioteca
Biblioteca
Art Nouveaux theater
Shop courtyard
Bags of herbal remedies
Yes there is Pulque
Aqua miel
Inhabited island
From Oaxaca?
Still life
Elders in the church yard
We leave today and I resist! I love having my breakfast served and my room cleaned every day leaving me free to walk through the gorgeous lower patio, through the gate, and out into the streets seeking adventure. This place, the large nearby green fields, the beautiful mountains, the lake, hold me gently. Nurture me. It took me years to feel at home in Hillsborough. Yet every place we visit in Mexico calls my name on some level. I wonder where it will take me next.
I leave you with this…on a Sunday morning walk I spied an elderly woman exiting her door to take a seat on her stoop. Addressing her and asking permission, I reversed my camera orientation and showed her her picture. As she giggled I snapped two shots then showed them to her. “Oh, Señora, Señora!” she said with laughter as she covered her face. I wonder how long it had been since she’d seen her own image.
As I continue to read the work of Joanna Macy and Jem Bendell and continue to consider the state of our Earth and our global society, it comes to me that this move to Mexico has had a bigger purpose than I imagined in the beginning. I now believe that I am here to learn about community (see my post COMUNIDAD from early July) and its broader meaning. Here in Mexico, where family is so very important and everyone comes together for the good of all. Now my task is to create community for myself from a sea of strangers.
In searching the internet for ideas about what community means, I came across a post called “Community is Everything: How to Build Your Tribe” in Inc. This Morning newsletter. Miki Agrawal gives her ideas about creating her “tribe”. She’s hand-picked her members of “inspiring friends” who “challenge me to be the best version of myself and support me through the great and the not-so-great.” Here’s her list of how to nurture your group: “Express happiness when you see your people…Let everyone share stories and participate…Forget the small talk (dig in)…Give credit as often as you can…Instill confidence — it’s free…Challenge your people to push themselves…Connect people!” I love her ending statements: “Don’t make friends just to make friends. Build the right community…(It) is so much more about what you put in than what you get out.” This young person has great wisdom already. I think of these words as I meet and interact with people. Perhaps because of my age I am “pickier” as well. No time for small talk. Now the climate issue — the Great Turning — has become an important conversation for me. And there is much to say. Many of you know how terribly serious I can be. I’m counting on my new community to help me see how much fun there is to be had! (Like the concert by Celia Farran that I attended with my Spiritual Friends tribe yesterday. Her songs are connecting and soulful.)
Coffee shops and markets, fiestas and concerts. Hiking, traveling, classes. Walking around the village. All places to find folks to connect with. People are anxious to connect here, anxious to tell their stories. Just by moving here we often have a great deal in common.
We found this house in the country at the last minute a year ago. Luckily we landed in the midst of a mixed community that looks out for each other. My growing Spanish allows me to interact with the Mexican families on a casual level. The neighbors behind us are gringo & Mexican, bilingual, and often helpful in figuring out the politics and protocols of the Mexican world. I understand there are some gringos here who hide away and see the local culture only as servants. But most are here to be involved in and learn about the culture I believe. Hopefully we can learn from each other.
Beto & Shari ( Lelu)
Anna & Renata
Neighbor children
Bill & Barbara
From NC to Oaxaca
Here in Ajijic I have the opportunity to create the “right community”. But I am also realizing that my community does not have to be just here. It includes friends (and family) from everywhere I’ve lived previously, as well as those I’ve yet to meet. In fact, new friends are arriving here from North Carolina in October and January. We’ve met, shared some good times, connected by email and Facebook, and look forward to getting to know each other. From St. Thomas, Virgin Islands to Sweden, from Ohio, Florida and Oregon, from North Carolina, my home state, and from Oaxaca and Teotitlan del Valle to Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico, we are all community. We are all family, by birth, choice or circumstance. We are all in this together. We are all One. Connecting the dots.
I’ll make this short. Several of you who read my blog have expressed concern either to me or to my partner Ben about my last post.
Yes, it was emotional. Yes, I wear my heart on my sleeve. Yes, my blog is my journal of whatever I’m feeling at the time. July was a very intense month with amazing joy as well as deep sadness. But I’m OK. I’m fine. And I thank you all for your concerns. I love Mexico. Don’t want to return to the US. Don’t know if this is our final settling place. But I’m up for the adventure!
Coming back from North Carolina to Mexico has been traumatic to say the least. Like falling. Slow mo. Into a state of grace. Of tenderness and vulnerability. Jet lag and raw emotion. Leaving family and friends behind when my body/mind has not completely settled into my new country.
Grace, a multidimensional term meaning, well, several things. Here’s the spiritual definition from Wikipedia: “the divine influence which operates in humans to regenerate and sanctify, to inspire virtuous impulses, and to impart strength to endure trial and resist temptation; and as an individual virtue or excellence of divine origin.” Wow. Loaded, huh? And my mind is loaded, full of emotions and plans and thoughts of all I’ve experienced, read, seen, felt over the past month. Or perhaps I should say the past 8 months. That’s how long we’ve been here now. The excitement worn a bit thin at times, yet so much left to experience. What I’ve realized is: 1) 2 big trips (Oaxaca & NC) in the same month is too much for me, 2) I need at least 3 days to recover after such intensity, and 3) I do miss the relative cleanliness and quiet of our old neighborhood. No point in denying it. But the biggest piece, the overriding essence of it all, keeps coming up as Family and Community. And for that I am willing to fall into grace.
My primary motivation for this trip? To see my granddaughter turn 6 months old before starting daycare. Her name is Hazel Grace, better known as “Hazie”. She is my pride, my joy; first child of my only child, my son Japhy. She has taken my heart and given it new meaning, just as she has for her parents. She is bright-eyed and curious and ever-searching for the next adventure. Toni says she’ll bring her to visit someday. I’m counting on it!
FRIDAY: After 5 days with my son and his family I headed to Durham on the train to visit with girlfriends for my 68th birthday. (Trains are thrilling to me. One of the things my mother introduced me to at the age of 2 when she took me to NJ to visit relatives.) Those four girlfriends picked me up, drove me wherever I needed/wanted to go, wined and dined me, and listened to my story for hours on end. I talked so much my throat was raw. High on it all. Soaring. Delighted. Grateful. It was all so familiar and comforting.
Birthday lunch @ Ixtapa
Gladys at Ixtapa
Birthday dinner at Luna
SATURDAY: Hillsborough continues to grow like crazy. Old shops turning into new. New restaurants. Construction. Demonstrations. It was good to say Hi to old friends and places. Good to know it was OK not to live there.
Our beloved Farmer’s Market friends. So happy to see these hardworking folks! Sorry not to buy anything this time. I shared our story of visiting a master candlemaker in Oaxaca with a young couple selling beeswax products. Sharing similarities and expanding community a little bit more.
Saturday evening with my dear friend and acupuncturist Robin. She gave me my first space and encouragement as a massage therapist in 2006. We’ve been friends ever since.
Sweet surprise!
Dinner with Robin @ Local 21
SUNDAY: Craft market at the Durham Armory, tour of an old downtown bank, and lunch at Neomonde. I was immediately drawn to the colorful scarves waving like flags in the room full of local artisans. They turned out to be handwoven cotton from villages in India, supported by medical personnel at UNC-Chapel Hill. http://www.GumCha4Health.com. My friend Norma has taught me the value of supporting such causes.
MONDAY: After a relaxing dinner and evening with friends Onja and Bill, it was back to Charlotte on the train the next day. Thanks for the early morning ride to the station Onja!
One more day with my sweet Hazie. It was hard to relax knowing I’d be leaving soon, but I took advantage of every minute I could with the understanding help of her wonderful nanny Lauren.
Leaving Hazie was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. Mixed in with all the other emotions was the experience of reading Joanna Macy’s book ACTIVE HOPE during this trip. My son and I had touched on this topic of climate and societal transition before I arrived. I thought we might discuss it while I was there, but I couldn’t do it. There is such joy in their home, wrapped around this child and family, that I couldn’t throw the monkey wrench. The bottom line of the book is coming together as community during this time that the author calls “The Great Turning”. And so I fold them into my love and compassion, held both close and from a distance.
Freshly stunned by the beauty
of the ground below me
and the hovering clouds
Returning home I fell into hours of fitful sleep, depression, sadness; ungrounded, grumpy and unsettled. The noise, the mess, of Mexico struck me blind after being in the comforts of my old home. Searching for quiet, I donned my new noise canceling headphones (thank you, Son!) and sat in meditation with the aromas of melissa, vetiver, and geranium wafting through the air around me. I followed with a few minutes of yoga and gradually fell, once again, into a sense of grace, of acceptance of a life much different than I’d ever expected. Still searching for my own way of being in this transitioning planet, now bonded with the two upcoming generations, I find myself appreciating, longing, loving, accepting; joyful, patient at times, impatient at others. In my old pattern of overwhelm I sometimes feel there is not time for the necessities of life – shopping, cooking, cleaning, mending. But in reality it is all part and parcel of our blessed time on this Earth. It is now my fourth day back. I can still shed tears with little provocation, especially when I think of my son and his family. But what I know is this: that they, along with the friends I visited near my old home, will always be part of my community, no matter where we all are. And I also know that falling into grace can happen wherever that may be.
Dictionary.com defines community as: a group of people living in the same place or having a particular characteristic in common; a feeling of fellowship with others, as a result of sharing common attitudes, interests, and goals. In Teotitlán I saw and felt this in action.
Casita
Our hostess Norma Schafer lives most of the year in Teotitlán del Valle, about 40 minutes outside of Oaxaca City. (Wikipedia has an interesting page on Teotitlán.) She bonded with a family there while visiting about 14 years ago and ended up building a house AND a relationship. She conserves water since the village reservoir is unseasonably empty due to lack of rain and uses her gray water on her numerous outdoor native plants. She speaks near fluent Spanish with the villagers who greet her warmly and come to her for advice and assistance at times. She wears a specific style of apron to the daily market and buys a alot of her food there as the village women do. Her regular walking schedule takes her into the beautiful high desert “campo” – country – with her dogs Tia and Butch, an experience she’s happy to share with visitors.
Market
The daily market consists of an open air section with flowers, baskets, tlayudas (extra large tortillas), vegetables, turkeys, etc., and an enclosed section where you find meat, eggs, vegetables, prepared foods, and household goods. Women bring their own containers and baskets. I saw nothing in plastic bags. Flowers were wrapped in newspaper. Prepared foods, including jello made from scratch, go into containers brought from home. Conversation abounds. In a mingling of colors and customs. (I’m told the women also have a special place for a morning shot of mezcal.)
Line up for the mototaxi-done shopping!
Church
The market is right beside the church so it was easy to drop by for a visit. An archeological site is fenced in behind the church, remains of the old Zapotec temple, all but destroyed by the Spanish Catholics. Built from the 1500’s to 1700’s, the Preciosa Sangre de Cristo Church and the market mark the center of village activities.
Wandering through the church yard we came across musicians talking on the patio. When Norma spoke to them in Spanish we were promptly invited to attend the rooftop concert marking the opening of the week’s festivities. We were honored and did not hesitate to climb up the narrow winding staircase. Space was tight but I could not contain my joy. The views and the energy of the music, the inclusion of strangers, was amazing. Back on the ground – or was I? – tears flowed. A small crowd gathered to witness special occasions and the church flowers were changed out by a family who has made a 3 year commitment to service. To their community. Where everyone pitches in.
Village market & sacred Picacho
Artisans
Teotitlán is well known for its handwoven rugs. Weaving has brought the town recognition and income, driving the village leaders to seek Pueblo Magico status (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pueblo_M%C3%A1gico). Norma stopped in front of a wall with a metal gate – “Go knock on the door”. A few minutes later Francisco Martínez Ruiz opened the door to his rug weaving studio, where wool is carded, spun, and dyed with natural elements of the Earth, creating gorgeous colors that are very distinguishable from synthetic colors to a trained eye. For the next hour or so he and his lovely wife Maria Del Lourdes shared their time and talent with us. We walked away with two gorgeous rugs. Maria will be at the well known feria in Chapala (near Ajijic) this November and I look forward to seeing her lovely smile again.
Another knock on a metal door and we stepped into a Master Candlemaker’s studio. Viviana Hipolito is the Master but on this visit her son and daughter in law were in charge. Viviana was across the dirt street helping prepare for a week long celebration, to which we were invited. This family makes all the candles for the church and the services and celebrations it houses. These candles are not dipped. With a bucket and a ladle the candlemakers pour up to 300!!! layers of wax over the suspended wicks. Thicker ones were off limits on this buying trip. They will be used for the church. A medium size yellow candle was skillfully cut in half and carefully wrapped for my journey home.
Celebration of Community
The invitation was given for Norma and her friends to attend mass and meals for the celebration of La Danza de la Pluma (The Dance of the Feathers) in the home of the lead dancer. It is an honor to be chosen as dancers for this Zapotec interpretation of the Spanish Conquest. Costumes are complex and headdresses heavy. This is a 3 year commitment to dance in every festival and set an example for the community. It is taken very seriously. (We were not able to attend the actual dancing due to our schedule but have seen pictures. Maybe next year.)
Sifting ash from the fireTo break down the kernels
We watched as the village women worked together for hours on end, smiling, talking, sweating. Working over hot fires in a camp style kitchen. Young and old together passing their secrets and wisdom along. Chili rellanos were in the works for this day. And a special corn dish in the works for the main meal, to be held the following day after the blessing of the dancer’s costumes and “thrones” at a special mass.
With all items blessed and returned to the family altar, the elder spoke his prayers in Spanish and Zapotec then passed through the crowd offering a simple blessing to each person. Afterward the crowd entered the courtyard and the festivities began.
Ernestina and her friends had been grinding corn and fermented cacao beans for tejate for 5 hours by the time we arrived. They are so proud, so steadfast in their dedication to what they are doing, what they do day in and day out. Though perhaps not always on so grand a scale. You wonder how they do it. If they’re content. But who are we to ask the question. We sat and watched and talked with them as they worked. Never have I felt such connection; visceral, grounded, rooted to this Earth. They know, from a young age, where their food comes from. They know it is not to be taken lightly. And they know it is a matter of community.
We came bearing flowers and 20 loaves of market bread, our “admission fee”. Norma spoke in Spanish. I listened carefully, catching alot, speaking a little. It thrilled me when one man complimented me on my pronunciation. I felt accepted. As we sat we were served like everyone else. Market bread, 4 loaves each, and hot chocolate. Chicken in a thick tomato/corn broth. Tlayudas. Men toasted with thimbles of mezcal followed by 2 “short beers”. Women sat with short beers and soft drinks (refrescos), finally to be served by others. Before you could finish one bowl of chicken another one appeared. A green clay pot was placed by each person. Then a shiny green leaf with a ball of dough to be transformed into the special corn/cocoa drink (tejate). I watched as the seated women began to pour their leftover stew into the green pots and cover them with a tlayuda. Then place the extra bread and the dough in their individual baskets. “This is what it’s all about,” says Norma. “It’s about community. It’s about sending food home to feed your community.” A lot of work. A lot of money. Commitment.
I cannot express the depth of what I felt during the time that I shared with this community. I cannot describe their sweetness, their kindness, their generosity in any way that might make sense. I can tell you that I am grateful. I can tell you that I will go back, that the invitations given to us are taken seriously. That I truly want to be with these people again. It is a motivator to learn Spanish. Norma may not be there next time to guide us. She asked me what I would do differently after this experience. The list is long and growing. But I can tell you what the main thing is. Community. Looking out for each other. Wherever we are. Comunidad. Bless you Teotitlán Del Valle.
Once again I thank Ben Dyer for contributing to this photo essay. And Norma Schafer for sharing her time, energy and expertise. Though it is mostly about textiles, I highly recommend a book written by Eric Sebastian Mindling, a resident of Teotitlán, OAXACA STORIES IN CLOTH. It is a fascinating look at the significance of textiles in the state of Oaxaca and includes a few pages about Teotitlán, as well as a description of the bond of community..
Tlacolula. Musical name. We stopped there for gas on our way to the “frozen waterfalls” of Hierve Del Agua. This busy little village was bustling with traffic, my favorite being the “mototaxis”. Like colorful toys whizzing around the streets, pick up, drop off. 3 wheels. So practical. When can I ride in one??? But first…
Hierve el Agua is an amazing rock formation that creates the illusion of a waterfall, when in fact it is a process of spring water trickling through fissures in the cliffs, leaving behind its over saturation of calcium and other minerals. Two artificial pools have been created to corral the water close to the smaller of the two waterfalls, making it a delightful, and some say, healing, swimming experience. The turquoise/green water is quite cool and the bottom not visible, though not very deep. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hierve_el_Agua
Delightful! And spectacular. Never mind that we drove miles into the mountains on good highways then onto a narrow, bumpy dirt road past two small villages to get there. It was all fascinating to me. After a brief swim and photo ops, crowds filed in as we left to order up some mango and coconut water at one of the many vendor stalls. Smart entrepreneurs – they know how thirsty you’ll be after your swim in the bright sun. Off we went to the next stop on this journey…mezcal!
The dirt road through two small villages eventually came to a couple of basket sellers and mezcal distilleries. No holding us back. Norma pulled off to the right toward a primitive shed with big oak barrels and a horse tied to a grinding mill for crushing the “piñas”, or hearts, of the particular agave plant. Beside the shed was a stone-lined pit for roasting the piñas and a stack of charred wood. A sample of the roasted piñas rendered a taste not unlike your grandmother’s Thanksgiving sweet potato casserole, though the fibrous treat must be discarded after chewing. A copper “still” is heated by a fire to distill the fermented liquid. Oh, it’s much more involved than that, but you get the picture. https://www.tripsavvy.com/how-mezcal-is-made-1588808. This is not your average distillery. No rules and regs here. You take your chances. These guys were great fun and we laughed our way through the process. Three or four shots later Ben learned how to say “thank you” with Mexican hand signals and we walked away with two bottles of pretty darn good mezcal and a story to tell!
Baskets first
And we’re off to Mitla, former religious capital of the Zapotec civilization. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitla Though the first picture below may not make much sense, I include it because as the marching band moved past our car (while we waited to pull out), we realized it was a funeral procession. People carrying flowers and candles – and the coffin – suddenly flooded the streets and surrounded our car. For a few moments we couldn’t move. It seemed disrespectful to me to take any more pictures, so we watched as the solemn crowd passed by, probably headed to the church.
Santa María del Tule. The “stoutest” tree trunk in the world resides in the church gardens of this little town. Arbol del Tule. The Montezuma cypress is reportedly more than 2000 years old and has a girth of nearly 138′. The “baby” tree nearby is probably 1000 years old. The little town thrives from tourism centered around the amazing trees, though the now heavily trafficked streets are proving somewhat detrimental. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81rbol_del_Tule
Tlacolula. Sunday market extraordinaire. The streets are closed off to traffic and hoards of pedestrians file in. Tourists and locals from surrounding villages crowd in to visit with friends and to experience the food, colors, and crafts of the area. This is the first market where I’ve seen live turkeys and chickens for sale. At one point I saw a woman holding a baby on her hip with one hand and carrying an inverted (live) turkey in the other. There were tables bearing nothing but mole ingredients. Tables of household goods. Tortillas. Food para llever – food to go. And drinks like the pre-Hispanic tejate, the frothy liquid in the bowl below. You’ll learn more about this in my next episode where I talk about watching the dough, yes, dough, being made. https://www.entornoturistico.com/tejate-la-bebida-mas-popular-de-oaxaca/ Aprons (mandiles) are standard fair in the villages of Oaxaca. During the Spanish Conquest each village was assigned a particular “costume” and a particular craft or household item to produce. The idea behind the “costume” was to make each population more identifiable. This is how the beautiful weaving and embroidery that we associate with Mexico today came into being. Fewer and fewer villagers wear their assigned garb now on a daily basis, saving them instead for celebrations and festivities. On this day aprons and beribboned hair abounded.
Seven months ago back in NC we let go of objects with a vengeance and purpose. But we also knew we were entering a world of indigenous crafts like no other. Rugs, baskets, embroidery, fabrics, pottery, candles, alebrijes, carvings, and on and on. Mecca. We kept it small on this trip, trying not to overdo, but I can tell you that every time you buy directly from an artisan in Mexico you are giving them, in trade, a better life. This was not our last trip to the fascinating Oaxaca Valley. Hasta luego!
Thanks again to Norma Schafer for the marvelous tour of these villages. And thanks to her and Ben Dyer for some of the above photos.
I have wanted to go to Oaxaca for over a year now. The very name invites. Wikipedia says that Oaxaca is the Nahuatl word “Huaxyacac”, referring to the”gauje” tree (Leucaena leucocephala) found around the capital city. After a two hour flight from Guadalajara we sped away in the car with our hostess and friend, Norma Schafer, tour guide extraordinaire. A city of 300,000 people serviced by a myriad of cars, businesses, and restaurants, Oaxaca was more fast paced than I’d expected. Traffic was crazy, loud, chaotic. But we made our way and saw a world of wonders.
Color in the streets
The state of Oaxaca is known for its crafts, especially textiles. A private historical collection of jewelry and other items also included a marvelous display of HUIPILS (wipils), an indigenous garment created from strips of handwoven fabric sewn together with decorative seams. Nearby stores tempt. Do we all want to look like the iconic Frida Kahlo? Who hid her disabilities with indigenous clothing and jewelry, bringing them into the lime light.
After breakfast AND lunch in wonderful Oaxacan restaurants, Norma guided us down a back alley on a side street. Entering the dark, simple dirt floor room we are introduced to J. Manual Garcia Esperanza, Grand Master Filigree Jeweler, and his son, José Jorge García García. A private showing of their award-winning work was laid out before us, accompanied by streams of oh’s and ah’s. And pursuant purchases. We were then led to the son’s small, crowded studio where the current selection of masterpieces is produced. Ben, jeweler that he was, was duly impressed.
Grand MasterAnd sonNew design in processCompleted!Birthday gift-thanks Ben!
It was an amazing experience to stand in the presence of these humble men who so readily shared their time and space with us. Afterwards we took off for Norma’s casita in Teotitlan Del Valle. But that is a very long story, to be saved for another post. There was more to be experienced in the city proper.
On our 2nd day Norma took us to a funky alternative gallery where her neighbor’s daughter, 34 year old Janet, was part of a panel discussion and preview of a documentary about reviving the Zapotec language. https://www.youtube.com/c/DizhsaNabani Followed by an amazing lunch. Janet is one of the Zapotec young people who has chosen life in the city, away from the more traditional village of her birth. Janet and her older brother operate a small artisanal boutique in Oaxaca. Her parents and younger brother have become quite famous for their rugs created with wool hand-dyed with natural materials. (Norma’s casita is behind their house, on their land, and will revert back to them when she no longer lives there. As she says, “It is an investment in our friendship and relationship.”)
Monte Albán was our next tour, an easy taxi ride from the city, and a significant Zapotec archeological site. This was the capital for the Zapotec civilization beginning around 400BC and the place where their language and creativity began to shine. Amazing to see and to know that theoretically only a third of the city has been uncovered! (“ZAPOTEC CIVILIZATION: A CAPTIVATING GUIDE TO THE PRE-COLUMBIAN CLOUD PEOPLE…” is an easy and fascinating read about this culture.)
We met Norma and her friend Jackie, who lives in the city, for a late lunch after our adventure. Sweet…we shared a taxi from Monte Albán to the city with a Mexican couple who live and work in LA. They had called for the taxi but happily shared with us. They refused to let us pay our half of the bill. Tip only. Another example of Mexican generosity. After lunch we wandered through the streets on our way back to the car, running into many festivities, including a parade celebrating new graduates.
We spent parts of 3 days in this gorgeous city. But there was so much more to our trip. Below I’ve included a brief slideshow for more of a view of the Oaxaca City, but I’ll stop here and save Mitla (second capital of the Zapotecs), Hierve Del Agua, Santa María del Tule, and Tlacolula for the next post. Teotitlan will come later as it rocked my soul and deserves a post of its own. Enjoy & stay tuned!
Mexico is known for its colorful, intriguing doors. It’s hard to walk by without wondering what’s going on behind them. But not all doors are closed. Sometimes they’re open for business. Sometimes they’re open for air. Sometimes for watching the world go by and staying connected. Thing is, a door is not just a door in Mexico. A door is often a statement, a work of art, an entry way to another world.
Sometimes you’re peeking through a gate or a split in the plastic hung while construction is going on.
Sometimes you’re looking into a business. Or a vacant lot.
There are openings that draw you in just so far, keeping privacy in mind.
There are gates into a different world. Gates that start your imagination rolling, making you wonder what the folks inside are up to. Protection from the outside is obvious. Secluded, cool, quiet, often with gardens, courtyards, patios, and terraces.
Doors that are stone, brick or metal. Subdued colors or bright. There is no “one way” and no requirement for approval (for the most part).
Wooden doors, hand-hewn – massive or small, simple or carved. Iron work forged into handles, door knockers and decorative tacks.
Abandoned doors…who walked away and left their lives behind these walls? And why?
Reflecting doors…reflections of old and new, handcrafted, hand painted.
And windows to the world…rarely ordinary. Even the electric meter deserves decoration.
On May 2nd I posted a page titled FINDING MY WAY. This is part of what I wrote: “My confidence grows with each door that opens on this threaded journey I am on. Spreading my wings. Finding my place, my Light, in this new country. Growing in unexpected ways. I had no idea I would become this person I am today.” The journey continues. But with a new focus. This post is not really about me. Or Mexico.
Part of the reason we moved, as some of you may remember, was to step away from consumerism, comfort, security and convenience, to see if we could let go of our patterns in order to live a simpler life. Here we are. Now, how do I connect the dots between moving to Mexico, diving into a more spiritual life, my love for the elderly, my age, and the current state of the world?
Stepping out. I led a meeting of my “tribal” group, Spiritual Friends Lakeside, last week. We met at a beautiful retreat center/B & B (Villa Del Ángel), enjoyed a healthy breakfast, participated in a Summer Solstice meditation, and spoke of who we are and what we wish for. There are many spiritual groups here. James Twyman’s (MOSES CODE) NAMASTE community, a Buddhist Center, a center for discussion of A COURSE IN MIRACLES, a metaphysical discussion group, numerous yoga classes, etc. And I need that. Diving in. But with what goal, what purpose, outside myself. As I said above, how do I connect the dots?
This article changed my direction, gave me hope, led me to other links that opened my eyes to the true meaning of being an ELDER, whether in Mexico or the United States. It made my intentions of healing work using sacred objects a gift of hope, an avenue of being present with intention and looking at the anger, grief, and despair many of us are feeling right now as a gift of the uncertainty and massive transition that we are in the midst of. It is no longer “business as usual”. We can no longer stay silent and remain in the current state of things. Joanna Macy, systems specialist, scholar, Buddhist teacher, and elder, says we must accept the gifts of strength and alertness of the present moment and use our power of intention to motivate us for the welfare of all. She says it is time to befriend our grief, fear, and outrage, instead of explaining it away. I hope you will watch this powerful 30 minute YouTube video. It is so very inspiring. Joanna Macy-The Hidden Promise of Our Dark Age/Bioneers @ https://youtu.be/vzmjF1jE2K0
I avoid the news. Ben fills me in once a day. It’s all I’ll allow. But what to do. My work with Healing Touch seems even more important now. It is one way for me to contribute as an elder to the possibility of change in a world in rapid transition. As I follow the thread I’ve discovered since reading the above cited article, I believe I will find other ways as well. I am planted in a country that respects their elders and listens to the spirit of their land. A people who appreciate the present moment. Remember JFK’s famous speech? “Ask not what your country can do for you. Ask what you can do for your country.” I would expand that now to say “What can you do for the WORLD?”. We are global. We are all in this together.
(I hope that you who read this will not find yourselves saying – “Oh, boy. Doom & gloom. I’m checking out on this blog.” This is real. This is personal. This is important. This had to be said. But I am still in Mexico, living and learning, traveling and exploring. Check in next time. Oh, and let me know your reactions to the article &/or video. I hope you will find them as inspiring as I did. Hasta luego!)
