Tomorrow it will be a year since the brass band welcomed us in the pouring rain of early morning darkness on November 28, 2018. In truth it was not a serenade to us but to the construction worker across the street. It was the beginning of our understanding that this is a country of hard working and hard playing people. People who find multiple reasons to celebrate, from honoring “blue collar” workers and laborers to paying tribute to death on the weekend of Días de Los Muertos. Life is what it is, tenuous and fleeting. What will be will be. And with that realization comes the joy of living moment to moment.
That is the biggest thing I have learned here in my new home. I also know the truth now of the statement “ wherever you go there you are”. I am still a person with moods and fears, strung tight from years of training in proving your worth by being productive. My biggest lesson now, here in Mexico, is letting go. Some of you back in NC may remember my license plate – LETTINGO (so sorry that my picture wouldn’t load). Day after day I glanced at that tag, but not until we started the process of moving here did I really get the breadth and depth of it meaning. Mexico is my LETTINGO place. As a good friend recently reminded me, it’s OK to just BE.
Here are a few other things I’ve learned:
Mexico is gorgeous! From desert to lakes to lush valleys to high evergreen forested mountains. There are always things blooming. Even in the midst of the dry season. The view from our mirador and the clouds rolling over the mountaintops or hovering above the lake are often breathtaking.
The range of cities we’ve seen – from Guadalajara to Oaxaca City to Patzcuaro – are historically and culturally rich, complex, with so much to see that one visit barely scratches the surface. The network of highways we’ve traveled so far has made our trips easy and enjoyable. That said, I’ll also note that there is a severe lack of road repair street signs and lane markers in Ajijic and other small towns. Driving at night is not recommended. Anyone hitting a wandering cow or horse on the highway was responsible for paying the cost of the loss to the farmer until recently. They are now responsible for keeping their livestock contained.
Artisans are alive and well in Mexico but many struggle to maintain their craft as young people are lured away by bigger places with bigger money. There are groups of people (LADAP) and individuals (Oaxaca Cultural Navigator, Animecha Tours) who take on the support of indigenous artisans in a big way through education, tours, and public shows. The romantic image of the black haired, dark skinned woman in her native dress, seated on the ground with her back strap loom attached, is often far from the reality of the hard work, minimal recognition, and even abuse, she may endure. The lucky few reach national or international recognition along with a decent income. Don’t bargain with them if you visit. Every peso counts for work that often takes months to complete.
Sometimes you find that the things you think you can’t live without don’t matter anymore. Like that special shampoo or cotton blankets. Sometimes you wish you hadn’t sold those handmade blue bowls in the estate sale. Costco, the “dollar store”, and the local Walmart (sorry) are necessary sometimes though you learn you truly can do with less.
Cleaning fruits and vegetables that can’t be peeled in a disinfectant solution is a must. Salmonella and other GI issues are not fun. Debate is on-going about which disinfectant is most effective. By the way, cooking is optional. Restaurants, food stands, and prepared foods are abundant. Food preparation is handled pretty carefully here. Gringo business provides a livelihood for many.
Mexican people for the most part are warm and responsive to a friendly smile and an “Hola”. Most are patient with your attempts at speaking Spanish and will gently guide you to the right word or phrase. I love riding the bus – yeah public transportation! Often a local will stand and offer you their seat. I sometimes decline if the person is my age or older but I’ve noticed an occasional face of disappointment when I do.
Ajijic is a gringo party town. You can blow your budget and your energy out in a week due to the number of interesting people, restaurants, fiestas, events and classes. Everyone has a story and everyone else wants to hear it. For some Ajijic is considered “summer camp for adults”.
The first 6 months were tough in many ways. Adjusting to being retired after pushing through our workdays for so many years, to Ben and I being together 24/7, to new language and new customs. Still, everyday becomes an adventure in figuring out where and when and how to do all the things you take for granted as an adult in your native country. The hardest part is being away from my granddaughter Hazie, now ten months old. And missing familiar surroundings and people when I’m under the weather.
Ben hikes and paints. I attend Spanish class twice a week. My favorite times are spent walking and sitting in “el Centro”, observing people. In time we may volunteer with groups helping kids and older adults. Next year we’ll volunteer at the annual Feria. No rush. Being kind on a daily basis is just as important. There are plenty of opportunities. We owe the local people kindness and respect. We are guests here after all.
Is it possible? That we’ve been here a full year? I remember telling some people that we may “just stay for a year then come home”. Little did I know that a year would prove that I have a new home. Ah, México! Wait! Is that a brass band I hear playing outside my gate??? Bienvenidos! Welcome to Mexico!
