Pandemic Effects: Episode #2
I doubt anything has fascinated me about Mexico as much as the colors, diversity, and creativity of the indigenous clothing. Before we settled here I decided to make a project of shopping for pieces I could wear on a fairly frequent basis. I’d love it if I had black hair (I’m a little too blonde!) and could dress like my hero Frida Kahlo, who worn “native dress” to show her support of the indigenous people of Mexico. The love of Mexican clothing has led me to the love of learning about the numerous variations in style and pattern and the women who create them.
The indigenous women of Mexico have historically spent hours, days, months, processing primarily cotton, wool, and silk, weaving it into clothing of many different styles and adorning it with embroidery, designs based on the region they live in. Somewhere along the way I read that the dress of each region was “encouraged” by the Spaniards during the Conquest in the 1500’s, as a way to identify each indigenous group, but I haven’t been able to find my source on that. From region to region styles have been affected by weather, religion, European influences, techniques, and availability of equipment and supplies, ie., looms, fibers such as cotton, bark, and agave, dyeing materials such as indigo, flowers, and insects, etc. Over time the work that was a necessity for daily clothing became a necessity for subsistence. Very few women wear village costumes these days, except for special occasions. Their time is spent creating items for sale instead of for daily wear. The diversity and beauty of the work is now sought after by tourists, businesses, and collectors.
The Mexican states best known for their clothing are Michoacán, Oaxaca, and Chiapas. Michoacán has many indigenous groups – Purépecha, Mazahua, and Otomi among them. Backstrap looms are used for making wool and cotton rebozos (shawls). Cross-stitch embroidery (usually yellow) on checkered aprons is typical of the Purépecha. Storytelling embroidery does just that on blouses, shawls, pillows, etc. And deshilado (pulled thread) embroidery can be as basic or elegant as you’d like.
In Oaxaca the women of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec are noted for their densely embroidered flowered tops and skirts made famous by Frida Kahlo. 
The typical “wedding dress” (or top) made familiar by the hippies of the 70’s is usually white fabric with elaborate embroidery on the yoke, sleeves, and front. There are cheap versions but authentic versions take weeks to months to create. Mandiles (aprons) are created in smock, half apron, and pinafore styles, generally made from acrylic fabrics with machine embroidery that may be simple or very elaborate. On the coast a Mixtec master weaver may take 300 hours to make a traditional skirt, 200 hours for a huipil. The Museo Textile De Oaxaca created educational programs for weavers that have blossomed into high end expositions, providing much needed income.
Those who’ve been to Chiapas (I haven’t made it yet!) will tell you that the range of textiles and clothing is astounding. Cooperatives there, as in other states, have been developed to allow the artisans more profit for their hard work, with set prices and the opportunity to be more visible to buyers. Mothers are encouraged to teach their craft to their daughters so that there is continuity of the traditions of Maya textiles. Small villages in Chiapas have outdoor market days, some representing more than one community. Typical findings are long-haired wrap skirts, satin blouses, and chales, or capes, hand or machine stitched. Dense embroidery of flowers is typical of Zinacantán women, with patterns hand drawn then meticulously stitched by machine numerous times. In 2015 there were over 1 million weavers and embroiderers in Chiapas, and 2000 sewing machines (MAYA THREADS: A Woven History of Chiapas by Walter F. Morris, Jr.) (Photo below found online.)
So, these too are the artisans I worry about. With COVID-19 limiting travel, markets and fairs, and other methods of sales, and so many artisans unable to sell online due to lack of knowledge or access to computers, I wonder how many of these women will be able to endure this blow. Their designs are unique, sacred, personal, and often highly symbolic. For many ONE sale can make a difference in whether their family eats that week, that month. I’m not sure how to help the indigenous women of Mexico other than to stay well and hope that I can travel to meet and buy from them in the near future. After all, we’re all in this together!
(There is so much information about the clothing and the people who create them. I could go on much longer. But I’ll stop now and leave you with a list of websites and books of interest. You can also write to me in the comment section if you have questions. If I don’t know, I’ll find out.)
TEXTILE FIESTAS OF MEXICO: A Traveler’s Guide to Celebrations, Markets, and Smart Shopping by Sheri Brautigam/2016
OAXACA STORIES IN CLOTH: A Book about People, Belonging, Identity, and Adornment by Eric Sebastian Mindling/2016
Interesting websites: Historyplex: Tradition of Mexican Clothes and Costumes: A Beautiful Riot of Color; The Classroom: History of Mexican Clothing; Everyculture.com. – Mexico; https://relativitytextiles.com/mexican-textiles/
In-depth studies:
Why do I stay? Because it is still a grand adventure. For the most part the local people are kind, friendly, & helpful. It is easy to create a community of local friends with the abundance of interesting people here. And I love Mexico, with all its quirks, & want to explore it further. Once we get our feet on the ground. Some folks seem to settle right in. Or maybe they just don’t talk about the difficulties. For us, retiring, closing down a business, leaving behind friends of many years, &, of course, family, coming to a new country where nearly everything is a learning curve & you barely, if at all, speak the language, ranks in those top 5 life events that can really send you tumbling. But we’re determined. We’ll find a way.
Ajijic author Judy King says the Virgin is a “common denominator” uniting the Mexican people and “the rubber band that binds this disparate nation into a whole”. Mexican novelist Carlow Fuentes says “You cannot truly be considered a Mexican unless you believe in the Virgen of Guadalupe”.
This is the beginning of a two week celebration for the Mexican people, including Christmas and ending on January 6th, Three King’s Day. This is México at its best. Celebrating with hearts full of devotion and love. Celebrating their Virgen who protects and cares for them.
Thanksgiving has become a “crossover” holiday. The number of gringos in Mexico is rising – some statistics say it’s up to a million now – as well as the number of Mexicans returning from years in the United States. The Thanksgiving holiday arrives a few days after Revolution Day (Dia de la Revolucion), commemorating the 10-year Mexican Revolution which began on November 20, 1910. (See Wikipedia “Revolution Day” for an excellent explanation of this significant holiday.) Though it is not a national holiday, still a work day, for Mexicans it is another time to spend quality time with friends and family.
