In his article of 10/17/23 for “The Catrina Shop”, Davide Corizzo says that Halloween and Day of the Dead are “distinctly different in their origins, traditions, and significance”. My preference is certainly for the Latino celebration of “Día de Los Muertos” (Day of the Dead) with its colorful, exuberant, and respectful nod to the circle of life. But it’s good to know the difference since I am a resident of both the US and México now.
Halloween, celebrated on October 31st (though the stores would have you think it’s in July) originated in Ireland, marking the end of summer and beginning of winter. Now, of course, it is celebrated worldwide. It has definitely trickled down into México where shops in my adopted village of Ajijic sported all the costumes, decorations (spooky ghosts, spiders, witches and goblins!), and candies we expect to see in the US.
Though both traditions see the boundary between the living and the dead as a “thin veil”, with the dead returning to the “world of the living”, Halloween has become more of a commercial festival sporting trick-or-treat, pumpkin carving, and costumes. It is a festive time for dressing up and enjoying friends and family. In neighborhoods around my apartment there seems to be a bit of competition in decorating yards. But the atmosphere is playful and cheery.
Día de los Muertos celebrates the lives of those who have passed as part of the cycle of life, inviting them to return through offerings of flowers, candles, food and drink. Ofrendas (altars) are a time-honored way of welcoming the dead to the realm of the living, even if only for a few hours. Families spend a few days before cleaning up the gravesites in preparation for visiting the graves to celebrate with music, dance and food, often throughout the night. The animated film COCO is an excellent way to experience this celebration if you can’t make it to México.
In the 16th century Catholic priests from the conquering country of Spain decided that the way to win indigenous Mexican people over to Catholicism was to include some of their rituals in the Catholic practices. The dates of October 31st through November 2nd coincide with the Catholic feast days of All Saints and All Souls. Not accidental. Aztecs did not mourn the departed but considered their deaths part of the cycle of life. Tombs were often built under houses so the deceased loved ones remained close. Skeletons, skulls, and toy coffins have long been part of Mexican culture, mocking death in a light-hearted way. The famous well-dressed skeletons known as Las Catrinas were invented by illustrator and engraver Jose Guadalupe Posada (1852-1913) and have become one of the main symbols of Day of the Dead (much to the delight of local make-up artists!).
In Ajijic I watched as families began to enter the cemetery to clean and prepare the graves for the 2 nights of celebration – November 1st for children, the 2nd for adults. In the parking lot small trucks lined up to sell their loads of marigolds, a revered part of Day of the Dead, believed to guide loved ones home through the pungent scent of the sun-colored blossoms.
This year I invited my new and dear young friend Kenia from Monterey, Mexico, who arrived here with her family two months before I did, to check out the local Latino homage to Día de Los Muertos at Duke Chapel (at Duke University) with me. The Chapel itself is worth the visit but I wanted to connect with local celebrations if possible.
Typical offerings
Two sacred traditions meet
The Ofrenda (altar) at the Chapel was a collaboration of local organizations, including the Latino art community, seeking “cultural understanding and togetherness”. Those attending are invited to add items (non-perishable!) of significance to the tables and add a special name to the paper chain winding through both sides of the altar.
I delved into the tradition of creating an ofrenda in November of 2020, homebound due to the Covid pandemic, and kept it going throughout each year until I left this summer. My table here in NC is small but dedicated to Ben, my parents, and my love of Mexico. It is a ritual I will continue as long as I am able.
October/November 2020
Traditional ofrendas,an essential part of Mexican culture, have three levels: Heaven (top), earth (middle), and underworld (bottom -“where the spirits arrive to cleanse themselves”).
TOP-photos/religious icons
MIDDLE-favorite foods, drinks, personal items
BOTTOM-candles & a basin of water and a towel for cleansing before reaching the altar
“Candles guide the dead to their altars. Skulls, made of clay or formed sugar (calavera de azúcar or “sugar skulls”), provide a “reality check” and contrast to the jovial atmosphere. Marigolds (cempasúchitl) are the color of the sun and the flower of choice, abundant in fall. Their pungent odor leads spirits “home”. Copal, or incense, is often burned on the altar. Crosses in white, gray, or black, represent the 4 cardinal directions and help spirits find their way. A glass or pitcher of water is offered, along with favorite foods and drinks of those who have passed. Pan de muertos, sweet, eggy breads topped with crossbones, dusted with sugar, and made only in October, wait to be eaten. Often shoes, a set of clothing, and favorite personal items such as jewelry or tools are placed nearby for use by the spirits while visiting their earthly home. Sugar canes are sometimes used to create an arch over the altar or small pieces are simply placed out as gifts. Salt is offered to “cleanse the spirits and purify souls” in the year to come. Some altars include “petates“, woven reed mats placed for sleep and “metates“, the curved volcanic stone on legs where women grind corn and other foods for hours on end. Papel picados, paper flags bearing images of skeletons, flowers, etc., provide color and reference to the element of air.” (from my 2020 blog “Día de Los Muertos”)
2024-where are the orange marigolds?
I’m still looking for traditional celebrations of Día de Los Muertos near my new home. There is a significant Latino community in this area. I finally found some marigolds in a nearby grocery store – $7 for 6 small ones! I’ll be looking in craft shops or attempting to make my own I guess. I’ll miss the Ajijic celebrations lasting from October 31st to November 2nd when the new tradition of lighting the walls of skull plaques (started by local artist Efren Gonzales) takes place. “Why did you include one for yourself?” someone asked me. “So he will always know where I am!” I replied. Ben and I will always be there, remembered by friends.
Side by side…forever
thegracemuseum.org (ofrendas) videos/how-to’s & descriptions of each element of Day of the Dead