NEEDLE & THREAD: Artisans of Clothing

Pandemic Effects: Episode #2

I doubt anything has fascinated me about Mexico as much as the colors, diversity, and creativity of the indigenous clothing.  Before we settled here I decided to make a project of shopping for pieces I could wear on a fairly frequent basis.  I’d love it if I had black hair (I’m a little too blonde!) and could dress like my hero Frida Kahlo, who worn “native dress” to show her support of the indigenous people of Mexico. The love of Mexican clothing has led me to the love of learning about the numerous variations in style and pattern and the women who create them.

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The indigenous women of Mexico have historically spent hours, days, months, processing primarily cotton, wool, and silk, weaving it into clothing of many different styles and adorning it with embroidery, designs based on the region they live in.  Somewhere along the way I read that the dress of each region was “encouraged” by the Spaniards during the Conquest in the 1500’s, as a way to identify each indigenous group, but I haven’t been able to find my source on that.  From region to region styles have been affected by weather, religion, European influences, techniques, and availability of equipment and supplies, ie., looms, fibers such as cotton, bark, and agave, dyeing materials such as indigo, flowers, and insects, etc.  Over time the work that was a necessity for daily clothing became a necessity for subsistence. Very few women wear  village costumes these days, except for special occasions.  Their time is spent creating items for sale instead of for daily wear.  The diversity and beauty of the work is now sought after by tourists, businesses, and collectors.

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The Mexican states best known for their clothing are Michoacán, Oaxaca, and Chiapas.  Michoacán has many indigenous groups – Purépecha, Mazahua, and Otomi among them.  Backstrap looms are used for making wool and cotton rebozos (shawls).  Cross-stitch embroidery (usually yellow) on checkered aprons is typical of the Purépecha.  Storytelling embroidery does just that on blouses, shawls, pillows, etc.  And deshilado (pulled thread) embroidery can be as basic or elegant as you’d like.

In Oaxaca the women of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec are noted for their densely embroidered flowered tops and skirts made famous by Frida Kahlo. 0A0927F5-33B4-4A2B-9BBE-19EFF93FC2C9The typical “wedding dress” (or top) made familiar by the hippies of the 70’s is usually white fabric with elaborate embroidery on the yoke, sleeves, and front.  There are cheap versions but authentic versions take weeks to months to create.  Mandiles (aprons) are created in smock, half apron, and pinafore styles, generally made from acrylic fabrics with machine embroidery that may be simple or very elaborate.  On the coast a Mixtec master weaver may take 300 hours to make a traditional skirt, 200 hours for a huipil.  The Museo Textile De Oaxaca created educational programs for weavers that have blossomed into high end expositions, providing much needed income.

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Those who’ve been to Chiapas (I haven’t made it yet!) will tell you that the range of textiles and clothing is astounding.  Cooperatives there, as in other states, have been developed to allow the artisans more profit for their hard work, with set prices and the opportunity to be more visible to buyers.  Mothers are encouraged to teach their craft to their daughters so that there is continuity of the traditions of Maya textiles.  Small villages in Chiapas have outdoor market days, some representing more than one community.  Typical findings are long-haired wrap skirts, satin blouses, and chales, or capes, hand or machine stitched.  Dense embroidery of flowers is typical of Zinacantán women, with patterns hand drawn then meticulously stitched by machine numerous times.   In 2015 there were over 1 million weavers and embroiderers in Chiapas, and 2000 sewing machines (MAYA THREADS: A Woven History of Chiapas by Walter F. Morris, Jr.) (Photo below found online.)

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So, these too are the artisans I worry about.  With COVID-19 limiting travel, markets and fairs, and other methods of sales, and so many artisans unable to sell online due to lack of knowledge or access to computers, I wonder how many of these women will be able to endure this blow.  Their designs are unique, sacred, personal, and often highly symbolic. For many ONE sale can make a difference in whether their family eats that week, that month.  I’m not sure how to help the indigenous women of Mexico other than to stay well and hope that I can travel to meet and buy from them in the near future.  After all, we’re all in this together!

(There is so much information about the clothing and the people who create them.  I could go on much longer.  But I’ll stop now and leave you with a list of websites and books of interest.  You can also write to me in the comment section if you have questions.  If I don’t know, I’ll find out.) 

TEXTILE FIESTAS OF MEXICO: A Traveler’s Guide to Celebrations, Markets, and Smart Shopping by Sheri Brautigam/2016

OAXACA STORIES IN CLOTH: A Book about People, Belonging, Identity, and Adornment by Eric Sebastian Mindling/2016

Interesting websites: Historyplex: Tradition of Mexican Clothes and Costumes: A Beautiful Riot of Color; The Classroom: History of Mexican Clothing; Everyculture.com. – Mexico; https://relativitytextiles.com/mexican-textiles/

In-depth studies:

https://ethnycorner.com/en/2019/08/24/quelle-est-lorigine-des-fleurs-mexicaines-sur-les-vetements-mexicains/

https://www.getty.edu/conservation/publications_resources/pdf_publications/pdf/unbroken_thread_eng_vl.pdf

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THERE’S AN OIL FOR THAT

Not much of a pandemic related title…or is it?  Through these weeks of social distancing my partner & I have stuck close to home.  No cheating.  Always mask & gloves when we go out for food & cash (an essential item in Mexico).  Being home so much gives you lots of time to think.  Which isn’t always a good thing.

Depression, melancholy, fear, agitation, loneliness….so many emotions arise.  After too many nights with a nightcap & too many days of tears, lethargy, sadness, I realized I had to do something or I was going to sink into my bed or our couch & refuse to move.  So I got up, showered earlier than usual these days, dressed, & sat down at my computer to make a list of projects I could tackle, because I finally have the time.  (And for me, structure is a good thing.)  One of them was to renew my study of essential oils.  It’s been 4 years since I certified through the online AROMAHEAD INSTITUTE.  What better place to zero in on than the emotions this lockdown has raised in me.  And in many others.

What I love about oils is how you can customize a blend for the combination of emotions you’re feeling.  And your blend might be completely different from the blend I would use.  I don’t want to get bogged down here…there’s sooo much information out there.  But I’ll say this: Essential oils are strong chemicals, not to be taken lightly.  They are subtle but powerful & they must be used with caution.  The #1 rule with all oils is – Dilute! Dilute! Dilute!   Please note, also, that I do not advocate ingestion of oils without a very high level of education.  Now, let’s talk.

Essential oils are the concentrated “essence” of herbs, seeds, grasses, trees, flowers, fruits, etc.  The chemical composition of each oil is different & there is the potential to interact negatively with specific medications & diseases.  Also, sensitive skin can react adversely, especially if an oil (a citrus oil, for example) has oxidized because of frequent exposure to air & sunlight.  In short, don’t use an oil without studying it first.  aromaweb.com is a good source.  And I recently found an excellent discussion of quality & storage of oils on ESSENTIALOILHAVEN.com.

Here are two of my favorite go-to books (I have many!) for using oils with emotional issues, both well known authors in aromatherapy:

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Yesterday I knew I needed oils to help get me through so I grabbed these books & started reading.  Situational depression in the midst of such serious global issues, causing the delay of my trip to visit my granddaughter in North Carolina, guided my choices.

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Gabriel Mojay teaches oils from a Chinese medicine perspective, breaking emotional issues like depression into different categories depending on cause & symptoms.  This time I picked oils based on “fear of an external or known cause” – Thyme linalool – & depression that causes a loss of “ability to motivate, seek, and aspire”.  Yep, that said it.  His suggested oils for that are Bergamot & Mandarin.  All I did was place one drop of each on a small felted wool ball someone gave me & breathe in (deeply) the aroma several times in the afternoon/evening.  The clue that you’ve taken in too much is simply beginning to feel a headache or nausea.  If you experience these symptoms, just back off. I must tell you that I feel much more clear, focused, & calm today.

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My other book led me to a very different list of oils, to be used in three phases as needed. Worwood suggests specific blends totalling 30 drops to be combined with massage oil, placed in a diffuser, or dropped on a cotton ball for simple inhalation.  You can breathe directly from the bottle but I prefer not to open my bottles any more than I have to to protect their integrity.  She suggests Grapefruit, Rosemary, Eucalyptus citriodora (there are several Eucalyptus species), Cypress, Helichrysum, & Clary sage, to be used in different combinations for light, moderate, or deep depression.

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I’ve also found myself having mild panic attacks sometimes at night when the lights are finally out & my mind starts cataloguing all the craziness we’re living through right now. Lavender is the #1 first aid oil for that & in this case it’s OK to use it straight, or “neat” as we call it.  So I keep a bottle by my bed now.   All I have to do is open the bottle once & take a couple of deep breaths to calm my “fight or flight” response, or place 1 drop on my inner wrists or my upper chest.  For more serious cases of panic attacks the oils you see in the picture above can be combined in specific proportions to apply in a massage oil or to inhale from the bottle or a cotton ball.  

You probably noticed that I have several brands of oils.  I’ve experimented over the years & these are the brands I’ve stuck with.  Here in Mexico it’s difficult to find oils & shipping costs from the US are outrageous.  That means that any time we’re in the US or someone’s coming to visit us (when will that be???) oils are on my list of must-haves.  

Well, that’s it for today.  I’m happy to discuss any of these suggestions in more detail.  Just send me a message in the comment section.  Don’t self-diagnose depression.  You know how you feel.  Remember my safety comments above.  Don’t forget essential oils when you’re looking for a little help.  Most of all, be safe!

 

 

WAITING IN MEXICO

This is Holy Week in Mexico.  The Passion Play, church services, parades, and gatherings have all been canceled.  It is inordinately quiet here today.  No workmen building.  No handymen or gardeners working.  Hardly any traffic.  The Mexican people are resilient.  I’m sure they’re finding ways to celebrate.  (Photos from 2019)

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Like many of you, I find myself waiting.  Waiting to see how this life-changing pandemic hits Mexico.  We are in lockdown, with more businesses closing every day.  We go out weekly for food and/or medicine.  We have vegetables, fruits, and staples delivered.  We are the lucky ones.  I worry about the Mexican people who survive on so little, knowing that that will most likely be taken away now as well.  There are few reported cases of COVID-19 here in the Chapala area, probably very little testing going on.  And reports of local, well-revered doctors not using PPE.  The Mexican culture takes a “que será será” – what will be, will be – attitude we’re told.  Take life as it comes.  What will be left after the “tsunami” hits?  Will we lose some of our Mexican friends?  Who will go without food?  What businesses will be gone?  Restaurants?  How will indigenous artisans survive?  How will this country recover?  We wait and wonder.

There are efforts, known and unknown, going on around the Lake to help those in need.  Friends recently started a FoodBank for Ajijic and neighboring villages.  Restaurants have switched to take out and delivery and patrons are urging others to support them.  We are blessed, in our house stocked with food, and a pool to lounge in.  We have so much.  We look out for our Mexican neighbors nearby.  And our handyman with four children and no steady job.  It is time to step up to the plate.  It is time to be COMMUNITY.

So I leave you with photographs of people and places I’ve encountered in the past two years of living in and visiting a small portion of Mexico.  I experienced the people and places you see primarily in Ajijic, Tapalpa, Pátzcuaro, and the state of Oaxaca.  Reviewing the images makes me realize (again) just how rich Mexico is in color, culture, and history.  I know a lot of these folks and count them as friends.  The businesses are ones that I frequent or acknowledge as part of our community.  I am concerned for them all.  Please hold them in your hearts as we endure these next few months together.

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REPORTS FROM THE FIELD

I’m lucky.  Blessed, really.  I have this wonderful house with a view (thanks to my partner), space to meditate and do yoga, a good computer, music, books…but sometimes I just need to “space out”, fall apart.   There is so much sadness in the world right now.  Yes, I see the blessings – like neighbor helping neighbor, employers helping employees, etc. – but sometimes none of that seems like enough to get us through.  Part of my strategy is to contact friends who are out there, in “the field”, experiencing the joy and pain of March, 2020.  I thank them for sharing and allowing me to pass their words along.

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WA-Elizabeth

Hey there Chris. It’s so good to hear from you. We are doing OK. Being in Western Washington, we have been a little Ahead of the curve. Schools have been out for two weeks here already, through the end of April, but no one thinks schools will resume for the rest of the academic year. We are waiting for the announcement on that. We’ve been doing social distancing for several weeks and it seems like people are following the directions as far as I can tell to help flatten the curve. Washington’s governor has been a strong leader, mainly due to the severity of the outbreak in Seattle and that being the first place things really hit in the United States. We have one local hospital. The hospital administration says they have plenty of everything that is needed to handle a surge; One emergency room physician in particular and a lot of more anonymous healthcare workers have said the hospital is woefully unprepared under supplied and not handling testing in a way to limit the spread of disease. Who would you believe? In the past couple of days we’ve had one nursing home overrun with infections and several others reporting their first few cases. So things are getting a little rough here. Jack and I are spending our days working on his school homework and taking long walks and keeping up communication with close family and friends. Thanks for reaching out.

NJ/MD-Kay (Retired/Grandmother extraordinaire)

Life here in NJ is at a standstill.  Cases are multiplying by the day!  People are counted and limited to 30 allowed in the grocery store at a time.  I wish I could say everyone is practicing isolation but they aren’t. I think this is going to be a long and deadly period in America’s history.  We sanitize, wash our hands, make our own hand sanitizer (there is not a bottle of it to be purchased in the tristate area), wash our clothes immediately after being out, and basically try not to leave the house for anything but food.  My daughter works for US Foods.  She is working from home.  She was lucky.  She is in management and was not furloughed.  Her particular group of employees had their hours cut.  Food orders have decreased but hospitals and take out restaurants and grocery stores still need deliveries.  Her company has been great in trying to do all that they can to help employees.  They are giving them food that they have overstocks of. They are pretty large handouts and so my daughter has been sharing with neighbors. One neighbor has a family member connected with the produce industry.  She has been sharing on a daily basis the excess that comes from there. People are helping each other.

Stay safe and keep the faith that we will all get through this.

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Roanoke, VA – Erin (French teacher/musician)

Restaurants closed except for carry out. Grocery stores, co op, etc have shortened hours. Schools closed of course (and have gone to online instruction). Recently Roanoke city schools announced that students won’t go back at all this school year. People are still allowed to go out, drive, exercise, etc but not in groups over 10 and advised to keep 6 feet of distance.

 

Mountains of NC – Shelton (Hospice nurse/Master gardener)

Nature is doing her usual Spring thing, bestowing flowers, bird songs, fresh breezes, and rain, while all else is changed due to the virus.  There is the staying home part, which I enjoy.  Perfect excuse to stay home and dig, while enjoying all of the Earth’s blessings. Most of Boone is shut down anyway.  No restaurants, except take- out, no school for K-12, no App State, 75% of businesses closed, no tourists, no usual shopping, except a run to the grocery store, with hand sanitizer always, and social distancing of course.  And my work schedule is decreased, because how much can a Hospice nurse do remotely?  And then there is Zoom- the new to me way to connect with my church and work communities.  Oh, and don’t forget the fear!  Am I going to get sick?  What do the next few months hold?  Will there be enough food?- forget toilet paper, it’s been gone.  What do you do but live one day at a time right now, holding each day in gratitude for its preciousness.

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Pátzcuaro, MX – Victoria (Innkeeper/artist)

Here is a message I just sent someone.  It is longwinded but here goes.  The person was talking about social distancing.  I don’t mean to pontificate, but I think most Gringos do not realize exactly what it means to live from morning to night financially.  Not paycheck to paycheck which is bad enough.  This virus is exposing a class difference.  We Gringos are all watching the news and wondering about ventilators and such while there are many many Mexicans who do not actually have the luxury of staying home at all.  I have to pay my staff and I am happy to.  Mexican federal labor law requires it for ALL employers to continue to pay, though I am aware that most Gringos are not requiring that the employee come to work for the protection of both parties.  I’m not positive but I believe that might be why AMLO has made the horrible mistake of lying to the people. When it hits here people are going to die.  There is no infrastructure to deal with this kind of event.  I’m in self quarantine as is Tom bc of our recent trip.  I am also prepared to die if that is my destiny.  I always knew that medical care in Mexico was not 1st World and have been ok with that.  Since I have almost no SS I am hoping tourism will return in less than a year or I am screwed.  Meanwhile, it is important to live in the moment and maintain as positive attitude as possible.  Such amazing times.  We are being given a gift..though what it is is yet to be revealed.  I for one am really appreciating each moment as it comes.  Plan for the worst and then let it go”.  Abrazos (hugs)

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I’ll reference two other friends before I go.  One is Tracy Councill, founder of “Tracy’s Kids”, an art therapy program for children with cancer at GUH Children’s Medical Center near DC.   Therapy is on hold for now, for the safety of all concerned.  But for an uplifting story check out the attached video about a 9 year old boy who decided to do a fundraising project for Tracy’s Kids since art supplies can no longer be shared due to COVID-19.  Amazing.  He’s 10 today.  Happy birthday Jonah!

And my friend Norma Schafer of Oaxaca Cultural Navigator who is “stuck” in CA with her son.  She spends a lot of her time communicating with her indigenous friends in Oaxaca (see the link below about her village Teotitlán del Valle) and other areas of Mexico, asking how people are dealing with the limitations of this virus.

I remember “The Days of Wine & Roses”, The Beach Boys, and drive-in movies.  Every generation has their sweet memories.  And their painful ones.  COVID-19 is the pandemic from hell.  Touching each other with kindness, reaching out, makes it all a little more bearable.  Stay well!

 

 

 

IN THIS TOGETHER

Ajijic, MX-Me
Each day brings a different story here, as all around the world.  We had a 5 day “please stay at home” suggestion from our governor.  Some took it seriously, some did not.  We traveled to town yesterday to 1) pick up a take-out bread and pizza order and 2) get money from the ATM since this is, after all, a cash economy.  The bakers were decked out in masks, gloves, and aprons.  The ATM customers were not.  Out of 6 folks, including me and Ben, only 3 of us were wearing masks and gloves.  When we got home we 1) put our clothes directly into the washer (and dried them in the sun), 2) wiped down all handles and food wrappers, keys and bank cards, then the counters we put them on.  Ben even baked his money in the toaster oven!
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We’ve stayed home for 5 days now, except for the above, and we expect to be here a lot longer.  Predictions are that the surge will hit Mexico around April 15.  Some businesses are closed.  Most are not.  Some gatherings have been canceled.  Some have not.  Here, as everywhere, there is great concern about folks losing their jobs.  It is surely a time to reflect and to connect and to help when it’s safe to do so.  (As of this update on 3-25-20 the government here has ordered 20 more days of lockdown, but I doubt they will enforce it. And as Chuy my pool guy says…”It’s complicated. People need their money for their families.”)
Durham, NC-Onja
In NC, as of yesterday (March 24), Gov. Cooper has closed schools until May 15 , prohibited any gathering over 50 folks- so all gyms, movie theaters, dine-ins, non-essential businesses are closed. There is talk of mandatory stay-in-place, but Gov. Cooper is hesitant. Charlotte has the most cases, with Durham coming in second tightly with Wake Co.
At work, Roche is a manufacturer of a new Covid-19 test- as of Friday- so we are busy here! A new hotline set up just for customer questions on Covid-19. Since I support an instrument that measures Flu, there are a lot of updates and key issues (protocol for clinics is to test for Flu first and if that is negative, to test for Covid-19).
What I see?… It seems like those in the store are unconscious about the precautions- people coughing in the air not covering their mouth, folks getting too close, etc… I was wiping down everything and staying away from as many as I could but going down the aisle when others were just standing there blocking what I needed was frustrating.  Why are they not concerned?!
I don’t feel the push to Go/DO but now I can BE. It is nice for a while and I know it is temporary.

TX-Diana

I returned from a trip to Argentina and Brazil a week ago yesterday (March 24).  All was open down there.  When I returned to Texas I decided to self quarantine because of being away.  I’ve heard all restaurants, gyms and bars are closed here.  You can get take out food only.  Just heard there is a stay home/safe work order that goes into effect tonight.  I’ve gone out for a walk almost every day.  I’ve passed others walking and we smile and wave and give each other space on the path.  I realize how uplifting it is to be outside, feel the breeze and the warmth of the sun and also the smiles of people I don’t know.  I’ve also realized that now it is best to walk early in the day as it is getting hot here in Texas!
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OH-Debbie
Hi Cuz! We are all well as of now. Everything here is closed and we have to stay home except for essential things we absolutely have to do. Had to get groceries today and ordered them online so I didn’t have to go in the store.. just picked them up curbside! It feels very strange..especially having to stay away from other people! But better to be cautious! Take care of yourself and Ben! Stay well! I am sending you some pics showing you all of our empty stores.
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CA-Karen
I am glad to share a bit from our perch in the Bay Area of California. My husband and I have stayed home for about a week now per the shelter in place order. Many of my family members live in the area and we are all, more or less, fairly confined to our homes. There is a good feel in our great neighborhood. People are frequently out walking and everyone is supportive and friendly. In the grocery store,  there’s been so much panic regarding supply that many have been hoarding supplies. When I was in Whole Foods yesterday I sensed the fears of those around me and noticed some, with this social distancing order, are avoiding eye contact. Today was the first day that we could find any toilet paper; Safeway is now carefully rationing it out after they get deliveries. In general paper goods are difficult to obtain as is soup, beans, rice, frozen prepared foods, and disinfectant wipes. Many shelves at Whole Foods are frequently bare; however, Trader Joe’s has kept up fairly well with their lesser supply demands and their staff has continued welcoming and upbeat. And, yes, gyms, yoga studios, restaurants, pet supply stores…are all closed.  (Correction: Restaurants are open for take-out.) 

 

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OR-Melanie

We are doing okay so far. We have been using used masks from the wildfire several years ago and had a bag of gloves left over from caregiving in 2006. They are old but still work. We are not leaving home except to get essentials. We are having organic veggies delivered on Friday along with milk. We have stocked up pretty well. Toilet paper is impossible to find, although we have enough for now. Restaurants are closed except for takeout. Some places are delivering. They have even closed down the recycle center. We work on the business, read, work out on the treadmill (me for a half hour every day), play music, read some more, clean out closets and drawers. My flight attendant friend who was previously a hospital administator and who helped me navigate through the corporate red tape when Tom was ill has died. It broke my heart. Other flight attendant friends are getting sick. I am afraid for them. I am glad I am not there.

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Sweden-Karl

I’m retired so I have no difficulties isolating myself. And if I can do it in the garden; so much better. secondary and universities are closed and the students study from home. So Berit has no ordinary lessons but keeps in touch with her students by mail, video chats … Charlotta and Jacob work from home and their kids go to preschool as usual. Karl-Johan, David and their families are not so affected by the corona crisis. Yet. Many companies are in trouble, and even if the government tries to help many will lose their job. We can go wherever we want, but are asked to stay home as much as possible.

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St. Thomas, USVI-Margaret
We are currently under a Stay at Home order for all but essential personnel involved in health care, etc.  Trips to the grocery and drug store are allowed, with those stores limiting the number of people allowed inside at any given time. There have been 9 confirmed cases out of a population of 50,000. Because we are a resort area, many persons have traveled here but now all accommodations for visitors have been shut down and few visitors are left.
I have not been away from home but am told people are taking the situation seriously. We are very fortunate to have plenty of sunshine and warm breezes so we can spend time outdoors often.
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NYC by way of Nebraska-Sydney
This is my daughter, Nora Smith, celebrating her 31st birthday last night, here in Lincoln, Nebraska.
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Nora made a quick decision to leave NYC about 10 days ago after her office closed, and New York City was about to shut down. Better to work remotely from her mother’s former jewelry studio in Nebraska, than be isolated in her studio apartment on the 31st floor in Manhattan.
Thanks to all my friends and family who contributed to this post.  Stay well!
At the end of my last post I included some suggestions for self-care that I thought were sound advice.  It seems I may have been wrong.  Though those things wouldn’t hurt you, they also probably won’t do much to protect you.  Below is the poster for the WHO directions for hand washing that I was taught as a nurse.  You’ll find it useful when you click on the link to the article I’ve included, written by a young woman with a compromised immune system and a physician.
From Karen in California:  We are…all of us…in this together!  So true! Thanks Karen.

IN THIS TOGETHER

Ajijic, MX-Me
Each day brings a different story here, as all around the world.  We had a 5 day “please stay at home” suggestion from our governor.  Some took it seriously, some did not.  We traveled to town yesterday to 1) pick up a take-out bread and pizza order and 2) get money from the ATM since this is, after all, a cash economy.  The bakers were decked out in masks, gloves, and aprons.  The ATM customers were not.  Out of 6 folks, including me and Ben, only 3 of us were wearing masks and gloves.  When we got home we 1) put our clothes directly into the washer (and dried them in the sun), 2) wiped down all handles and food wrappers, keys and bank cards, then the counters we put them on.  Ben even baked his money in the toaster oven!
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We’ve stayed home for 5 days now, except for the above, and we expect to be here a lot longer.  Predictions are that the surge will hit Mexico around April 15.  Some businesses are closed.  Most are not.  Some gatherings have been canceled.  Some have not.  Here, as everywhere, there is great concern about folks losing their jobs.  It is surely a time to reflect and to connect and to help when it’s safe to do so.
Durham, NC-Onja
In NC, as of yesterday (March 24), Gov. Cooper has closed schools until May 15 , prohibited any gathering over 50 folks- so all gyms, movie theaters, dine-ins, non-essential businesses are closed. There is talk of mandatory stay-in-place, but Gov. Cooper is hesitant. Charlotte has the most cases, with Durham coming in second tightly with Wake Co.
At work, Roche is a manufacturer of a new Covid-19 test- as of Friday- so we are busy here! A new hotline set up just for customer questions on Covid-19. Since I support an instrument that measures Flu, there are a lot of updates and key issues (protocol for clinics is to test for Flu first and if that is negative, to test for Covid-19).
What I see?… It seems like those in the store are unconscious about the precautions- people coughing in the air not covering their mouth, folks getting too close, etc… I was wiping down everything and staying away from as many as I could but going down the aisle when others were just standing there blocking what I needed was frustrating.  Why are they not concerned?!
I don’t feel the push to Go/DO but now I can BE. It is nice for a while and I know it is temporary.

TX-Diana

I returned from a trip to Argentina and Brazil a week ago yesterday (March 24).  All was open down there.  When I returned to Texas I decided to self quarantine because of being away.  I’ve heard all restaurants, gyms and bars are closed here.  You can get take out food only.  Just heard there is a stay home/safe work order that goes into effect tonight.  I’ve gone out for a walk almost every day.  I’ve passed others walking and we smile and wave and give each other space on the path.  I realize how uplifting it is to be outside, feel the breeze and the warmth of the sun and also the smiles of people I don’t know.  I’ve also realized that now it is best to walk early in the day as it is getting hot here in Texas!
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OH-Debbie
Hi Cuz! We are all well as of now. Everything here is closed and we have to stay home except for essential things we absolutely have to do. Had to get groceries today and ordered them online so I didn’t have to go in the store.. just picked them up curbside! It feels very strange..especially having to stay away from other people! But better to be cautious! Take care of yourself and Ben! Stay well! I am sending you some pics showing you all of our empty stores.
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CA-Karen
I am glad to share a bit from our perch in the Bay Area of California. My husband and I have stayed home for about a week now per the shelter in place order. Many of my family members live in the area and we are all, more or less, fairly confined to our homes. There is a good feel in our great neighborhood. People are frequently out walking and everyone is supportive and friendly. In the grocery store,  there’s been so much panic regarding supply that many have been hoarding supplies. When I was in Whole Foods yesterday I sensed the fears of those around me and noticed some, with this social distancing order, are avoiding eye contact. Today was the first day that we could find any toilet paper; Safeway is now carefully rationing it out after they get deliveries. In general paper goods are difficult to obtain as is soup, beans, rice, frozen prepared foods, and disinfectant wipes. Many shelves at Whole Foods are frequently bare; however, Trader Joe’s has kept up fairly well with their lesser supply demands and their staff has continued welcoming and upbeat. And, yes, gyms, yoga studios, restaurants, pet supply stores…are all closed.

OR-Melanie

We are doing okay so far. We have been using used masks from the wildfire several years ago and had a bag of gloves left over from caregiving in 2006. They are old but still work. We are not leaving home except to get essentials. We are having organic veggies delivered on Friday along with milk. We have stocked up pretty well. Toilet paper is impossible to find, although we have enough for now. Restaurants are closed except for takeout. Some places are delivering. They have even closed down the recycle center. We work on the business, read, work out on the treadmill (me for a half hour every day), play music, read some more, clean out closets and drawers. My flight attendant friend who was previously a hospital administator and who helped me navigate through the corporate red tape when Tom was ill has died. It broke my heart. Other flight attendant friends are getting sick. I am afraid for them. I am glad I am not there.

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Sweden-Karl

I’m retired so I have no difficulties isolating myself. And if I can do it in the garden; so much better. secondary and universities are closed and the students study from home. So Berit has no ordinary lessons but keeps in touch with her students by mail, video chats … Charlotta and Jacob work from home and their kids go to preschool as usual. Karl-Johan, David and their families are not so affected by the corona crisis. Yet. Many companies are in trouble, and even if the government tries to help many will lose their job. We can go wherever we want, but are asked to stay home as much as possible.

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St. Thomas, USVI-Margaret
We are currently under a Stay at Home order for all but essential personnel involved in health care, etc.  Trips to the grocery and drug store are allowed, with those stores limiting the number of people allowed inside at any given time. There have been 9 confirmed cases out of a population of 50,000. Because we are a resort area, many persons have traveled here but now all accommodations for visitors have been shut down and few visitors are left.
I have not been away from home but am told people are taking the situation seriously. We are very fortunate to have plenty of sunshine and warm breezes so we can spend time outdoors often.
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Nebraska-Sydney
This is my daughter, Nora Smith, celebrating her 31st birthday last night, here in Lincoln, Nebraska.
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Nora made a quick decision to leave NYC about 10 days ago after her office closed, and New York City was about to shut down. Better to work remotely from her mother’s former jewelry studio in Nebraska, than be isolated in her studio apartment on the 31st floor in Manhattan.
Thanks to all my friends and family who contributed to this post.  Stay well!
At the end of my last post I included some suggestions for self-care that I thought were sound advice.  It seems I may have been wrong.  Though those things wouldn’t hurt you, they also probably won’t do much to protect you.  Below is the poster for the WHO directions for hand washing that I was taught as a nurse.  You’ll find it useful when you click on the link to the article I’ve included, written by a young woman with a compromised immune system and a physician.

 

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To quote Karen from California:  We…all of us…are in this together!  So true.

 

 

HUNKERING DOWN

“Dear Dharma Friends,
 
Beginning Tuesday, March 17th, we will temporarily suspend all activities at The Heart of Awareness.  
 
This was not an easy decision – the practice is more important than ever and the refuge offered by our beautiful quiet space is a priceless gift to our community.  Weighing all the information available at this time, I choose to err on the side of caution considering how vulnerable we all are.”
This was the message sent earlier this week by the leader of the local Buddhist meditation community.  This week it has hit Ajijic; the wave of precaution (& fear), the “Oh, don’t believe it!” & “Don’t touch anyone or anything!”  At least among the “expat” population.  From my Mexican hairdresser I heard: “Mexicans don’t live with fear the way other countries do.  We don’t worry about material things.  We are about family and sunshine and enjoying life.”  I did not have the heart to ask – but what if a family member dies from coronavirus?  I see evidence of some locals taking it seriously, possibly because expats feed their businesses.  The Mexican government is slow to take action, though there’s rumor that the border will be closed to all “non-essential” travel soon.
There are many discussions going around by email & Facebook that I find interesting. The virus speaking to us, telling us to pay attention to its very loud message about taking care of Mother Earth, slowing down, taking a look at what really matters.  As a nurse I saw many very ill people over the years who thought there illness would change their habits, their outlook.  It did for some.  For others it didn’t change a thing.  Once they were well it was back to the same old, same old.  Human nature, I guess.  But I hope this is different, I hope this will create an undeniable change in thoughts and behaviors.  We truly are, after all, in this together.
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As for us, we are beginning to hunker down now.  An important dental appointment this afternoon and an appointment with our lawyer Monday remain on the docket.  (As of this moment 3 hours after writing the above, my dental office closes after today until the government okays reopening and our lawyer appointment will now be a conference call.). There is still the desire to find Clorox and hydrogen peroxide and more gloves. (done on my last outing today).   I have looked at the CDC (Center for Disease Control) guidelines for cleaning and handwashing , all familiar to me as a nurse.  But it is hard to believe, sitting in this beautiful place, that danger lurks nearby.  There are confirmed cases just an hour away and the head physician for infection control in Mexico City says there are many more.  There are fewer hospitals here, fewer ICU beds.  Scary for folks with chronic illness.
Our two main markets were closed down until further notice this week, devastating the livelihood of many.  Delivery services are being put in place.  A local health food store cordoned off the store interior, instructing customers to form a line and place their orders one by one.  Restaurants are beginning to close, at least temporarily, though I still see many gringos gathering in the open ones as if nothing is any different.  Delivery services are popping up.  Local venders are scrambling to cut their losses.
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So as of next week we will go out ONLY if absolutely necessary.  For an introvert like Ben that may work OK, though he’s going to miss an art workshop he was looking forward to.  And for me for a little while.  Finally a chance to read and write and call friends.  I hope it doesn’t stretch into months.  The hardest part of this for me was realizing I had to cancel my trip to North Carolina to see my granddaughter (and friends).  Now I’m looking for ways to connect with her more often – can a 14 month old actually sit still for reading a short, short book to her?  Luckily her mom is great about using FaceTime.  Otherwise, I’d be a basket case.IMG_1364
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So here we are.  A little edgy, a little nervous, hypervigilant.  It’s one day later as I write this sentence and the governor of Jalisco has mandated that everyone stay home for 5 days.  Probably just a warmup for what’s bound to be a longer time period.  And our lawyer called to postpone our conference call for now.
I spent many years long ago being a “housewife” and mother.  Then became a nurse working for years tending to other people.  Now I’m ready to be home keeping things in order, tending to plants, cooking.  Looks like I’ll get my chance.
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UPDATE: An audio message going around here says that based on recent information from China, there are some simple things you can do to protect yourself.  Drink warm/hot drinks/soups – not cold – frequently, sip warm water every 20 minutes for hydration & washing the virus out of your system, gargle with warm water & lemon, salt, or vinegar everyday if possible, bathe & wash your clothes immediately after being in public spaces, wash metallic surfaces regularly (especially door handles, sink, counter, etc.), eat lots of fruits/veggies to up your zinc level, & emphasize all of the above religiously if you begin to have a sore throat. Put this together with “physical distancing” , washing your hands frequently with soap & water, & avoiding touching your face to protect yourself as much as possible. One of your best sources for information in CDC.org. STAY WELL!

OUT OF THE TUNNEL…

AND INTO THE LIGHT!!!

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We were excited last year about finding such a Mexican style house in a part of town we liked.  Not so crowded.  Cows, horses, small fields.  Country.  It served us well for the first several months.  Then the construction started.  On 3 sides.  The noise brought us to our knees.  I nearly had a nervous breakdown (truly) it was so persistent.  Monday through Friday 8-6.  We’d had a view of the neighborhood, lake, and mountains, but now began to feel more and more closed in, compressed, sometimes trapped.  Nowhere to escape for more than a few hours.  Our dream of being hiker/artist, Spanish-speaking writer/photograper, took a sharp turn we weren’t expecting.  Yes, we expected noise in Mexico.  But this was over the top.  So we decided we had to get out.  After a couple months of searching, a nearby neighborhood house went up for sale.  Gated community?  Why not?  We swore we wouldn’t be part of such an elitist idea.  We wanted to be in the thick of things.  Little did we know how much good construction, order, space, and quiet meant to us.  So we made the leap.

This house met 7 of 8 criteria for us.  What was #7?  Rustic Mexican architecture.   Arches, tiles, color…instead we found a bright, airy, spacious, well built, detached house with no adjoining walls (to other houses).  As I’m writing this we are less than 3 days away from moving in and we are so excited.  Waiting to exhale…

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Welcome to “Hallelujah House”!  Surrounded by exotic plants and flowers, fruit trees, and a cacophony of persistent birdsong, she is energized by the sun, fronted by Lake Chapala, and surrounded by the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains.  She is modern, well built, and stunning, sitting in the middle of a dozen houses barely two blocks from from our former “Casa Mirada”.

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Neither of us have ever lived in a house this nice.  Or this complex.  It has solar electric, solar heated pool, a clothesline!  We can even throw our food and plants scraps over the back wall into the cornfield.  Mexican composting.  We feel a little guilty, a little embarrassed at times, but we also feel more comfortable and we know it’s a good investment.

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What you can’t see in the photos is the ground floor casita – a one bedroom apartment listed with HomeAway – right next to our little pool, fruit trees around the corner.  Since the previous owners had already rented it through March we stepped right into a landlord situation.  And it couldn’t be more pleasant.  Glynis and Bill are from Ontario.  Easy-going, easy to talk to, comfortable folks who aren’t offended or put off by our learning curve.  What a great start!  Thanks you two!

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The trick now is to figure out how to continue to integrate with the Mexican community.  Our neighborhood is half and half.  Some are Canadians who go home half the year.  Some are full-time like us.  Some are Guadalajarans who come only on weekends.  There’s even a “hippie house” next door where the inhabitants don’t quite fit the expected mold.  Keeps us grounded.  I’m always happy when I’m in the village and I haven’t done much of that with all this going on.  I even dropped my Spanish class.  But it’s time now to get back out.  Circulate again.  Meanwhile, here’s the view from our place.

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We are blessed to be in this beautiful house.  It is a delight to share it with friends, to sit on the mirador with a glass of wine, to cook in a roomy, sunlit kitchen.  And though it may not meet the original plan of downsizing, simplifying, letting go, I think it has its own lessons to teach.  We’ll see how the next year goes.  So much to learn in life.

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UNFORGETTABLE

That’s what our trip to Michoacan was! And unbelievable. Here’s what happened.

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Bill and Onja came for their second visit to Mexico.  And that part was great!

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We spent a day wandering around Ajijic, where there’s almost always a party going on, before heading out to the state of Michoacán where monarch butterfly migrations are in full swing.  This was the motivator for our trip.  A six hour drive on beautifully positioned toll highways took us to our first stopover of Zitácuaro.  This city of over 185,000 sits halfway between Mexico City and Morelia, nestled in the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains at about 6300′.  It is a bustling city of friendly people, huge food markets, busy schools, and a large, active central plaza.

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Tuesday was our much anticipated butterfly adventure with J & M Butterfly tours (jmbutterflybnb.com) in the tiny and secluded mountain town of Macheros.  With a population of 315, Macheros sits at around 8000′.  Ellen (originally from South Carolina) came to these mountains from LA several years ago and partnered with Mexican husband Joel to create this “Biosphere Reserve” community, dedicated to conservation of the monarch butterflies.  They run a funky B & B with a good restaurant and a small gift shop.  We chose the Cerro Pelón tour and left by horseback at 10AM.  How romantic!  Riding up into the gorgeous mountains where monarch migration from Canada to México was first confirmed by the scientific community.  That was the good part.

This narrow, rocky, dusty trail was actually not fun at all.  Especially for our friend Bill who ended up with food poisoning from our meal the night before, while I suffered the power of a habanero chili.  Added fun, right?  Even though the guide was great, the trail was difficult and sometimes a bit scary.  10,000′.  An hour.  Into clouds.  OK, no.

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As the mist moved in we realized we weren’t going to see any “flight behavior”, other than the occasional flutter of a dying participant.  Those dark clumps in the trees are clusters of butterflies.  Too cold to flutter around.  As for me, altitude sickness hit me like a brick and I was nauseated, dizzy, and short of breath.  This scrawny white hound dog sat right in front of me, showing me how to relax and breathe deeply (thanks for that observation, Ben).  Young guide Angel handed me a small Coke – water just doesn’t do it – and I rested against a tree until we were ready for the short trip back to the meadow.  Too distracted to really appreciate what I was seeing, though the profound silence was surely a treasure for me AND the butterflies.  After a quick, delicious, homemade lunch we headed back down the grueling, endless trail.  Ben asked to walk, did so briefly, sprained his foot, and ended up on the horse of one of the guides.  So many times I wanted to say – How much longer?  Cuánto tiempo más? – but in the long run I realized it didn’t matter.  I was on this horse for however long it took.  So I remained quiet and held on.  (The pain came later, when I tried to sit down, on a hard bench.)

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After treating Ben’s foot with arnica ointment, ice, compression, and Healing Touch, we both woke up feeling better and ready to move on to the next leg of the journey.  Pátzcuaro.  We loved it there in August and couldn’t wait to show it off to our friends.  That meant facing a three hour drive in pouring rain in unfamiliar territory.  And Ben’s foot wasn’t ready for that.  I hate driving in the rain but the toll roads are great and Bill and Onja proved to be the perfect street by street navigators getting us out of the early morning bustle of Zitácuaro.

Thought I knew the highway into “Patz” but it had all changed, construction everywhere. Our trusty navigators led us to our beloved Hotel Casa Encantada where Luis and the staff greeted us warmly.  Sometimes you can park right in front, but this time they were too crowded and directed Ben to a nearby parking facility.  With ticket and cash in hand, off he went.  It’s always an adventure driving through a Mexican town with it’s one way, narrow streets and wide delivery trucks and/or buses.  He did well.

Lovely Pátzcuaro was cold and cloudy, coats required.  Luckily we brought layers.  I’m a mountain girl so always happier when it’s cooler.  And when the sun’s out.  Mañana?

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Our lovely evening of wandering Patz sent us off to bed exhausted but happy to be in familiar territory.  Next morning we met Ben’s friend Sydney, fellow retired jeweler from Nebraska, who often makes her way to Mexico.  After months of corresponding with her, it was good to meet her in person.  Both of us love travel photography and writing.  Delightful meeting.  Hang with her and you’ll soon know every good restaurant and shop in town, as well as the owners.

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Afterwards we wandered the streets briefly before Onja announced that she wasn’t feeling well and finally had to head to the room.  (We were in a different hotel at this point due to a reservation mix-up.  La Casa B & B.  A different experience.  A different parking lot.  Lots of one way streets.  Thanks again to Bill who helped us find it.).  Pharmacies (farmacías) are plentiful in Mexican towns.  You won’t find basic medicines or medical supplies in convenience stores like in the States.  A box of Antiflu-Des tablets ($7) set Onja on the path to recovery.  No prescription required unless you’re asking for opioids, antibiotics, or psychotropics.  The rest of us enjoyed sight-seeing and dinner.  We managed to hit 2 of our 3 favorite restaurants during our time in Pátzcuaro and enjoyed an unfamiliar one sitting next to a warm fireplace on our last night.  The overload of this evening meal led me to ask for “para llevar” – take out – with the idea of finding someone on the street to give it to.  It didn’t take long to find a thin, disheveled man making himself a bed on the covered sidewalk near a storefront, though this hasn’t been a familiar site on the plaza.  Señor, quiere la comida?  I hope it warmed him a little.

Onja started feeling a bit better by morning so we all ate a quick breakfast at our hotel – 43 degrees.  Packed up, paid, and sent Ben off to find the car.  The concierge, Jaime (hi-me) had to walk with us to find the parking lot the day before.  A little easier this time, except for those one way streets.

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Time to go.  Tired and weary, not up to par, we piled in the car and hit the highway toward Guadalajara.  Even exhausted we knew that the adventure we’d just had had been nothing like what we expected, yet it had filled us with new stories, new ideas, the value of friendship, and an enlarged view of México.  In the end I realized that the main issue had been our busy schedule before and after this trip.  And that slowing down, crawling even, through all the sights and sounds of our new country is REALLY OK.  This trip was unforgettable.  And I am grateful.

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I wanted to include what’s called a “feature image” at the top of this post, but WordPress has baffled me once again.  So I leave you with the wide open range instead.  Safe travels!  Viajes seguros!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHRISTMAS IN LA CRUZ!!!

It’s a long way to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, just north of Puerto Vallarta, and part of the area known as Riveria Nayarit.  Much of it is a wide open highway (toll road) but within two hours of your destination are more hairpin curves than I ever experienced in the mountains of North Carolina.  Add a little, and I do mean a little, road construction and you have miles of backed up traffic.  By the time you get there, you’re not even sure you wanna be!  But then there are the views…so maybe every little thing’s gonna be alright.

Sunday market is well known in La Cruz.  The most impressive thing for me was the tree bark artisan from a mountain village in Puebla.  Fermin Santos Salvador showed me pictures of the process of preparing the paper (papel amate) from tree bark and creating the displayed designs.  He and the rest of the Trejo family work eight months a year crafting their art so that he can sell it in La Cruz on Sundays the rest of the year. They have won many awards in Mexico City and other parts of the world.  I felt bad for him as we were on a tight budget and there were very few people in town.  I wish the Trejo family well and hope I can support their beautiful work another time.

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Temps were quite comfortable most of the time so we spent a good bit of time wandering around outside.  Ben’s sister, Melanie, and her husband Daniel flew down from Oregon to meet us.  They spent their first day on a whale watching tour while Ben and I caught up on some much needed rest.  The next journey for them, through Chuck’s Tours, was up into a jungle village where the villagers are a mix of Spanish and Mexican, self-sustaining, and gracious.

We spent a morning visiting Sayulita, a well known surfing town.  A tour guide had warned us not to be there at night due to drug traffic.  We were glad to leave right after lunch.  Nice place to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there!  Even though it made for some pretty good photographs.

Ben and I decided to go whale watching the day Melanie and Daniel went to the jungle village.  I gave up my fear of deep water with Melanie’s reassurance as we set off on a tiny little boat carrying 11 people into the Bahía de Banderas.  The silver, black, purple water and the rush of crossing the Bay was amazing.  And then there were whales!  Humpbacks.  We probably saw 9 or 10 though with few resulting photos.  I wasn’t quick enough for the ah-ha! moments and decided to let it go and just enjoy.  And enjoy it we did!

We had a nice Christmas Eve in a restaurant built into a rock with the cool name of Xoklo (choc-lo).  The food wasn’t great, but the service and the view were wonderful.

Bucerias was next.  A small popular area between Puerto Vallarta and La Cruz.  Crazy with restaurants screaming for your business, though some were closed for Christmas Day.  Vendors line the streets with slick lines and sometimes snotty attitudes trying to reel you in.  Wandering down an empty side street we came across a posted menu and an open door and were glad to step in for some solid food.  Sassy and Chris (!) made my day with their delightful smiles, sense of humor, and food obviously crafted with love.  Bucerias is known for its murals so after our meal we stumbled through the “Paseo del Beso” (literally Ride of the Kiss), trying to find them.

Somewhere along the way we realized that Ben was not recovering from his respiratory infection as quickly as he should be.  So off we went to the 24 hr Urgent Care where a friendly physician and nurse took us in, on their very busy Christmas Eve Day, as if we were family.  When we returned 2 more days in a row for his injections, it was like old home week.  Such sweet people.  (The clinic was one of the few places around with any Christmas decorations.)

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Friday was our last day and a good time to hang out in the water a little bit.  We had tacos at the most popular place in town – Tacos on the Street – then wandered down to the marina hoping to see a show of boats decked out with Christmas lights.  For some reason it never happened but in our wanderings we came across a small, crowded amphitheater with an inaudible slideshow presentation going on.  What?  A young woman quietly walked up to me, put her hand on my shoulder, and informed me that she and her husband were hosting the speaker and she was sorry we couldn’t hear her very well.  It turned out to be Jeanne Socrates, the oldest person (@ 77) to circle the globe completely alone and nonstop in her 38′ boat.  She just returned in September.  A nice triumphant story to end our evening.

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On Saturday it was back to the reality of the windy road after dropping Melanie and Daniel off at a restaurant for breakfast before their flight back to Oregon.  I realized as we left how very low key and quiet La Cruz is compared to the business of Ajijic.  (Restaurant owners complained of low business due to Airbnb, etc. making it possible for visitors to cook their own meals.  Truly most restaurants we went to had no more than 2 or 3 tables of customers.)  As for me, quiet little La Cruz was a hit.  Now I know where to go for a little R & R.

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LEGEND OF THE VIRGIN REVIEWED

I love it when the thread of a story begins to unwind, people step in to add information, “facts” change or are clarified, and my learning expands.  Last Friday I posted my story on the Virgin of Guadalupe, in recognition of her day of celebration on December 12th each year.  My friend Norma Schafer in Oaxaca stepped in with new insights obtained  12/16/18 when she posted her blog on the same topic.  In reviewing that post from last year combined with information she both searched out and requested, the story has changed a bit.

This story is one of syncretism, meaning a blending of indigenous religious, social, and cultural beliefs combined with beliefs of the Spaniards who conquered them.  It was the quickest way to lead the Mexicans to acceptance of the Catholic faith.  As more is learned about that period of time, it becomes apparent that the Spanish would willingly stoop pretty low to rid the country of paganism.  We know now that they destroyed many Aztec sacred temples in the name of their own religion and built their churches on those very sites.  Allowing the natives to keep some of their own symbols and practices made it easier to convert them.  And so, we wonder – were the apparitions of Mary seen by Juan Diego in 1531 “fact”?  Or fiction?  Truly divine?  Or manufactured for the domination of  a “largely disenfranchised population”?

In a 1992 ART JOURNAL article written by Jeanette Favrot Peterson and cited by Norma in her post, the author questions if the image of the Virgin found on the tilma, or cloak, of Juan Diego was actually painted some twenty years later, when the “failure (of the Catholic Church) to eradicate paganism had become patently clear”.  The Church refuses to allow the technical testing that would potentially answer the question.  Was the image that was adopted over time a result of a Spanish-designed Madonna, transformed with dark skin, straight black hair, and a pious posture, then held up to the Mexican natives they so wanted to control, as their own? 81163B40-8D1A-4ACD-AA0B-35E86DB81760_1_201_a

Other information from Norma’s “corrected” blog, The Virgin of Guadalupe Revisited, ponders the question of the Virgin really being “Tonantzin”, the Aztec and present day Nahuas’ “Mother Goddess”, one of many of the indigenous dieties.  She postulates that this Virgin that we speak of, this “woman as Mother Earth, Goddess, figure of strength, perseverance, and freedom,” has perhaps become “an icon of the divine feminine in each of us”.  As one woman explained to her, “Not all Mexicans are Catholics, but all (Mexicans) believe in Guadalupe in one form or another”.  Take your pick.  Thank you Norma.

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THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE

Who IS the Virgin of Guadalupe?

She is such an iconic figure in México, but in reality I had no idea who she was until I started my research.  She is simply the Virgin Mary, mother of Jesus.  Venerated at the Basilica of Guadalupe in México City.  Here’s her story.

On December 9, 1531, a “Marian apparition” was experienced by an indigenous man named Juan Diego on Tepeyac Hill, now a suburb of the capital city.  Over the next three days he experienced the apparition of Mary twice more.  She appeared asking, in his native Nahuatl language and in Spanish, that a church be built on the hill on which she stood to aid in the conversion of the indigenous people to Christianity.  The local bishop was hard to convince until, on December 12th, Juan Diego opened his tilma, his outer garment, and loosed hundreds of Castillian rose petals (not usually found in that area) from inside, revealing an image of the Virgin on the cloth beneath.  Miracles of healing followed and over time she has become the most popular religious and cultural symbol in México.

Juan Diego’s tilma with the original image of the Virgen de Guadalupe is enshrined at the basilica named in her honor, the most visited Catholic pilgrimage site in the world.  The image is of a mestiza (combined European and indigenous descent) with delicate features, hands in prayer, and a pink gown (sign of a new era) over-layed with a blue-green cerulean robe (color of the gods) dotted with eight point stars (from heaven).  She stands on a crescent moon with feathered cherubs carrying the hem of her robe.  A sunburst of straight and wavy gold rays, projected from behind, surrounds her.IMG_5851

Printed accounts of the events and images of the Virgin began appearing in 1648.  Hispanic communities and religious organizations all over the world have adopted this image.  In the Mexican War of Independence in 1810, Miguel Hidalgo led armies with flags emblazoned with her image, as did Emiliano Zapata in the Mexican Revolution of 1910. In 1999 the Catholic Church proclaimed La Virgen of Guadalupe Patroness of the Americas, Empress of Latin America, and Protectress of Unborn Children.  The indigenous people of México associate her with their polytheistic deities, increasing her popularity.  One Mexican interpretation is “mother of maguey” referring to the agave or century plant, the source of the sacred drink known as “pulque” and noting the spikes of the agave plant surrounding her instead of rays of light.

7ED14173-F1AD-4E03-8C5C-D8CC0E4C32BFAjijic author Judy King says the Virgin is a “common denominator” uniting the Mexican people and “the rubber band that binds this disparate nation into a whole”.  Mexican novelist Carlow Fuentes says “You cannot truly be considered a Mexican unless you believe in the Virgen of Guadalupe”.DFB62AC2-A5AF-4090-80B9-C7ED38918613

Our Lady of Guadalupe Day was declared a national Mexican holiday in 1859.  Today hundreds of thousands of people celebrate in Mexico City with candles and special music (see YouTube for “Las Mañanitas”).  But the celebrations are by no means limited to the capital.  The streets in every city, town, and village fill as December 12th approaches.  Feast your eyes on street side shrines, processions carrying the image of Guadalupe to and from the churches, fireworks, food, music, and fun.  In some places there are floats, indigenous dance troupes, charro horsemen and ladies, costumed children, and “coheteros” carrying armfuls of skyrockets, shooting them off along their way.8EAFAC88-8031-4460-99CA-0F12D38C97FA84E88672-1B59-40F6-A4FA-885759433418

 

2E5D8BD9-4D3E-42EC-BA94-ABDBC3580D8A65AAA347-7AF5-45FA-8B75-E7814E54781106A61001-608B-4051-909F-FFEFCDDA5A7D754C96A6-FD72-4C2A-88DB-BA66A4CCB878_1_201_aEFD7877C-7279-4C34-BFB1-21575C30D2EC22F26223-9E1D-46BA-8457-396A69AB4228This is the beginning of a two week celebration for the Mexican people, including Christmas and ending on January 6th, Three King’s Day.  This is México at its best.  Celebrating with hearts full of devotion and love.  Celebrating their Virgen who protects and cares for them.

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México is known for its fireworks – bombas, cohetones, and castillos, in particular – and  famous for its noise as well, something you learn to enjoy and/or cope with as a resident of México.  Huge towers (castillos), sometimes over 50′ tall, are constructed by hand and set up on plazas, spinning color and fire into the air and the crowds.  (A neighbor informed me last night that the castillo builders are great craftsman, revered for their meticulous construction. Good to know.)  Smaller versions, timed and purposeful,  awaken the people for the day, announcing mass, and propelling their prayers to God.  Most fireworks are made from scratch in small family businesses with little to no training and frequent accidents.  If you’re brave enough (or crazy enough!) to stand close by you’ll be filled with wonder.  I, for one, can’t usually stay up late enough to catch them and am probably too chicken anyway, but if I’m lucky I’ll see sparks from my faraway mirador.  That is why the picture below is by my favorite photographer of Mexican life, Dane Strom.5522774F-E730-4BC8-AAFF-199452441AC1

Here’s a different perspective.  This week a friend sent me an article from The Philadelphia Inquirer (December 12, 2019).  Female minister, artist, and activist, Katie Jo Suddaby created a Buddhist style sand painting two years ago depicting the Virgin being led away by ICE agents, hands cuffed with a zip tie.   After watching the immigration news on television the temporary painting was meant to raise awareness of the unkindness committed at the border between Mexico and the United States.  The founder of Philatinos Radio, Edgar Ramirez, commented that “it’s impossible to overstate the importance fo the Virgin to the faithful…she literally represents their mother, their faith, their reason for existence”.  The photograph of the sand painting goes viral each time immigration issues rise up in the media.  And from another source, and I quote, “These are deeply held traditions of a people who’ve suffered centuries of oppression yet maintained a cheerful, festive culture”.  Perhaps this explains why baby girls born on December 12th are often named Guadalupe and baby boys are name Juan Diego.  May we all find the bright spots in our lives.    Viva México!49C1627A-BD7B-440D-B262-49B7AF637D67.jpeg

 

A DAY OF THANKS-GIVING

We just celebrated our first Thanksgiving in Mexico!  We were blessed to be invited to our friend Vidette’s house for an afternoon meal and celebration.   Then we invited a different group of friends over on Saturday evening to celebrate again.

Gringo friends invited Mexican friends to join in their celebrations here.  We were invited to a Mexican home though our plans were already made by then.  Maybe next year.  There were plenty of grocery stores and restaurants catering to gringo tastes.  Friends who joined our Saturday celebration even came across fresh (?) cranberries!  Thanks for sharing those with us Len and Diane.  After reading several sources about the meaning and customs of Thanksgiving in México, the following sums up what I found.

49BC2131-147B-4282-BA06-995DAB4A4431Thanksgiving has become a “crossover” holiday.  The number of gringos in Mexico is rising – some statistics say it’s up to a million now – as well as the number of Mexicans returning from years in the United States.  The Thanksgiving holiday arrives a few days after Revolution Day (Dia de la Revolucion), commemorating the 10-year Mexican Revolution which began on November 20, 1910. (See Wikipedia “Revolution Day” for an excellent explanation of this significant holiday.)  Though it is not a national holiday, still a work day, for Mexicans it is another time to spend quality time with friends and family.

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Many of the dishes so familiar to us for this special day may very well have had Mexican beginnings.  It is said that the Mexican wild turkey was exported to England, then reintroduced to the US in its domesticated state.  Corn (the Mexican people sometimes call themselves ‘hombres del maíz’; literally: men of corn), pumpkin, vanilla, and chocolate were all introduced from Mexico.

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Last year we witnessed our Mexican neighbors setting out a feast on a long dinner table in our small street.  This was several days after Thanksgiving and we had only been here 2 or 3 weeks.  Family gathered all around with music and laughter going well into the night.  I have no idea what food they served but some families here have traditions of chorizo pumpkin soup, candied pumpkin or sweet potato, fruit and nut bread pudding, mango or chile-cranberry or kumquat salsa, stuffed pork, turkey served with green mole and chipotle peppers, guacamole, tortillas and/or tamales.  Depending, of course, on your budget, your location, and your taste.

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Thanksgiving is celebrated across various cultures and countries across the world.  In Mexico, the celebration of Thanksgiving is gaining ground and is often celebrated on a more religious and spiritual note.  It is safe to say that the proud and humble Mexican people celebrate everything around them, every day of their lives.  And why not?  We can take a lesson: these difficult times create all the more need for a night devoted to family, friends, food, and a chance to give thanks for it all.  Buen Provecho!  

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With this final photo I offer a story of sharing and gratitude for this recent day of Thanks-Giving.  People-watching on the malecón (boardwalk) in Chapala one day last year I saw a crippled old man carrying a checkered bag.  Weak, frail, walking slowly along with his cane, he passed a sardine vendor who, without hesitation, held out a tray of food to him.  The frail little man made a gesture indicating he wanted to pay but the vendor waved him on.  Touched, the old man man left with a faint smile of gratitude.

As for me, I find much to be grateful for this year, though days of fatigue and homesickness still appear more often than I wish.  Ben and I have gathered a fine group of folks we already call friends here in Ajijic.  Friends from the States have visited and now are realizing our landline is a free call to check on us.  (Leave a message if we don’t pick up.)  We receive regular photos updating us on our 10 month old granddaughter Hazie’s weekly progress – thank God for FaceTime!  We have seen some gorgeous places in Mexico and have come to love many of the Mexican people.  We are well fed, warm, safe, and content.  And I figured out enough about the new WordPress update to get this blog out to you, if a little late.  So for this year, and every day of the year, Feliz Días de Acción de Gracias!

 

UN AÑO EN MÉXICO

Tomorrow it will be a year since the brass band welcomed us in the pouring rain of early morning darkness on November 28, 2018. In truth it was not a serenade to us but to the construction worker across the street. It was the beginning of our understanding that this is a country of hard working and hard playing people. People who find multiple reasons to celebrate, from honoring “blue collar” workers and laborers to paying tribute to death on the weekend of Días de Los Muertos. Life is what it is, tenuous and fleeting. What will be will be. And with that realization comes the joy of living moment to moment.

That is the biggest thing I have learned here in my new home. I also know the truth now of the statement “ wherever you go there you are”. I am still a person with moods and fears, strung tight from years of training in proving your worth by being productive. My biggest lesson now, here in Mexico, is letting go.  Some of you back in NC may remember my license plate – LETTINGO (so sorry that my picture wouldn’t load). Day after day I glanced at that tag, but not until we started the process of moving here did I really get the breadth and depth of it meaning. Mexico is my LETTINGO place. As a good friend recently reminded me, it’s OK to just BE.

Here are a few other things I’ve learned:

Mexico is gorgeous! From desert to lakes to lush valleys to high evergreen forested mountains. There are always things blooming. Even in the midst of the dry season. The view from our mirador and the clouds rolling over the mountaintops or hovering above the lake are often breathtaking.

The range of cities we’ve seen – from Guadalajara to Oaxaca City to Patzcuaro – are historically and culturally rich, complex, with so much to see that one visit barely scratches the surface. The network of highways we’ve traveled so far has made our trips easy and enjoyable. That said, I’ll also note that there is a severe lack of road repair street signs and lane markers in Ajijic and other small towns. Driving at night is not recommended. Anyone hitting a wandering cow or horse on the highway was responsible for paying the cost of the loss to the farmer until recently. They are now responsible for keeping their livestock contained.

Artisans are alive and well in Mexico but many struggle to maintain their craft as young people are lured away by bigger places with bigger money. There are groups of people (LADAP) and individuals (Oaxaca Cultural Navigator, Animecha Tours) who take on the support of indigenous artisans in a big way through education, tours, and public shows. The romantic image of the black haired, dark skinned woman in her native dress, seated on the ground with her back strap loom attached, is often far from the reality of the hard work, minimal recognition, and even abuse, she may endure. The lucky few reach national or international recognition along with a decent income. Don’t bargain with them if you visit. Every peso counts for work that often takes months to complete.

Sometimes you find that the things you think you can’t live without don’t matter anymore. Like that special shampoo or cotton blankets. Sometimes you wish you hadn’t sold those handmade blue bowls in the estate sale. Costco, the “dollar store”, and the local Walmart (sorry) are necessary sometimes though you learn you truly can do with less.

Cleaning fruits and vegetables that can’t be peeled in a disinfectant solution is a must. Salmonella and other GI issues are not fun. Debate is on-going about which disinfectant is most effective. By the way, cooking is optional. Restaurants, food stands, and prepared foods are abundant. Food preparation is handled pretty carefully here. Gringo business provides a livelihood for many.

Mexican people for the most part are warm and responsive to a friendly smile and an “Hola”. Most are patient with your attempts at speaking Spanish and will gently guide you to the right word or phrase. I love riding the bus – yeah public transportation! Often a local will stand and offer you their seat. I sometimes decline if the person is my age or older but I’ve noticed an occasional face of disappointment when I do.

Ajijic is a gringo party town.  You can blow your budget and your energy out in a week due to the number of interesting people, restaurants, fiestas, events and classes. Everyone has a story and everyone else wants to hear it. For some Ajijic is considered “summer camp for adults”.

The first 6 months were tough in many ways. Adjusting to being retired after pushing through our workdays for so many years, to Ben and I being together 24/7, to new language and new customs. Still, everyday becomes an adventure in figuring out where and when and how to do all the things you take for granted as an adult in your native country. The hardest part is being away from my granddaughter Hazie, now ten months old. And missing familiar surroundings and people when I’m under the weather.

Ben hikes and paints. I attend Spanish class twice a week. My favorite times are spent walking and sitting in “el Centro”, observing people. In time we may volunteer with groups helping kids and older adults. Next year we’ll volunteer at the annual Feria. No rush. Being kind on a daily basis is just as important. There are plenty of opportunities. We owe the local people kindness and respect. We are guests here after all.

Is it possible? That we’ve been here a full year? I remember telling some people that we may “just stay for a year then come home”. Little did I know that a year would prove that I have a new home. Ah, México! Wait! Is that a brass band I hear playing outside my gate??? Bienvenidos! Welcome to Mexico!