Up, dressed, ACE wrapped, walking stick-I’m ready to go! Enough of being inside with so much left to explore.

Careful to measure every step, Ben readily offers his hand when I need it.  I make pretty good time, stopping only for an occasional photo op or to greet shopkeepers along the way: Dona Maria, our petite 90-something neighborhood street sweeper, the cinnamon colored older woman counting freshly made yellow corn tortillas (most here are maiz amarillo-yellow corn), Antonio Jose who steps out of his carpentry shop to ask our names and wish us well, the group of moms (madres) and children (niños) giggling their way along the street who readily return my greeting.  Turning into the open gate of the Lake Chapala Society, a world of gardens and gringos opens up.  This complex was donated by Neill James, a female “explorer” who rolled 1000′ down the volcano known as Popo and ultimately settled in Ajijic to recover in the 1940’s. LCS helps gringos find their way in the village.  Bulletin boards are packed with info about housing, classes, tours and ways to help the locals. Ben’s new friend Pat tells us the central plaza in town delineates the 4 main barrios (neighborhoods) by the half sun mosaic at each corner.  The central sun mosaic surrounds the gazebo.  Weezie, our neighbor and new friend we house-sat for in March, arrives on her way to her weekly Spanish class and entices me to go along.  90 minutes. Free. Conversational.  No pressure.  I am thrilled to realize how much I already know.  Same time next week!  A big step for me as the idea of “performing” in front of a class always intimidates me.

We say good-bye to Weezie, noting that we’ll see her there tomorrow for Open Circle, a weekly talk about anything from retirement to spiritual issues, and move on to one of my favorite restaurants-Chili Verde.  Chili rellenos, sopa de pollo con arroz y frijoles y fresh tortillas.  Yum!  Mango aqua de fresca y limonada.  A waiter turns Mexican music on and suddenly the lineup of cooks behind the counter are giggling and dancing as they work.  I smile and join in, doing a little jig in my chair.  When a steaming bowl of something not on the menu passes by, we find out it’s posole (with chicken and hominy) and lament missing it.  A few minutes later a cook places a bowl of the labor intensive soup and it’s fixing on our table and offers it “on the house”.  Yum! Y muchos gracias!  When you leave this small family owned restaurant that fills with gringos and locals alike, each cook and wait person speaks out to you-Adios! Gracias!  It feels like home.

On now to the “dollar store” – yes, they have their version, too.  A gringo shopkeeper greets us with words like-“Been here 17 years. Happiest I’ve ever been. Remember that every day is an adventure.”  In a small farmacia nearby I pick up a 10 pack of 600mg ibuprofeno for $1.35 and we head to Total Body Spa to schedule massage appointments ($35/hr).  My pedicure will be done while I’m on the table – interesting.  Moving on we pass an open door with a large basket of gorgeous avocados on display on the sidewalk.  I pick up 2 and cautiously enter the narrow hallway calling “Hola?” when a woman steps out from her kitchen to ask for 20 pesos (about $1). It is not unusual for locals to set out foods or meals for sale on the sidewalk but that’s another story.

We make our way now to the carretera, the main road that divides north (mountain side) from south (lake side).  New sidewalks, bike lanes (mostly for transportation not sport) and fresh paint – the village is thriving from gringo income.  We stop by a newly open restaurant – Purple Garlic Pizza Brothers – having heard they’re doing GF crust (could it be??). The young Mexican man and his American wife are friendly and chatty. Soon as they get the rice cauliflower crust figured out…..Ben stops for a roasted chicken and veggies for dinner.  Though chicken here has an amazing flavor, lunch was overload. Kombucha, thank you.  (Locally made with returnable bottles.).  Across the carretera I stop to take a pic of another favorite restaurant, Machi Ma.  It is a serene and welcoming vegetarian place, super clean and friendly.  A sign in front tags the philosophy their locally sourced food embodies.

It is a climb to our apartment now.  Tired.  My knees ache.  But I am happy.  I am becoming part of this village.  The welcoming smiles.  Kindness graciously rendered.  The joy of life displayed daily.  Oh, it has its problems, like every place.  But my heart and soul know, for awhile at least, it is home.

Words of wisdom

My efforts to learn Spanish led me to the ABC’s…

A=Ajijic, of course. Why? We were ready for a change. Mexico is close. Numerous recommendations. 5200′ elevation. Lake Chapala surrounded by  the Sierra Madre mountains with temperate weather. Rainy seasons bring brief showers that clear the air leaving everything fresh and green. Village people mingle with gringos. Lower cost of living in general – though gringo arrivals are driving rental/sale prices up quickly. Ajijic is “the place where the water springs forth.”

B=Barrio/neighborhood.  Bodega/storefront

C=Cobblestone streets and uneven sidewalks = rough walking. But it is an excellent use of local stones and allows a lot of the rain water to soak into the street rather than flooding it. Holes are eventually repaired with the leftover piles of little stones (or crushed brick) you often see by the walkways.

D=Donas Donuts. Favorite local hangout/meeting place for local hikers and weekenders from Guadalajara. With freshly made donuts of course!

E=Electricity is expensive. HVAC systems are rare. Fans, small heaters and AC window units are used only when necesario-like in May, the hottest month. Mini splits are becoming popular.

F=Fruta (fruit) of nearly every kind is plentiful. Berries are grown in huge greenhouses across the lake in Jocotepec for Dole, Driscoll, etc. The “dregs” -which are gorgeous – are sold here on the streets and in the markets. $7 will get you 3 quarts.

G=Guadalajara International Aeropuerto is about 40 min. away. Known for world class cultural events and skirted by Tlaquepaque and Tonala art/craft communities, Guadalajara is Mexico’s 2nd largest city at around 4.5+ million.

H=There are a few small hospitals in the Lake area and more being built. Gringos sometimes have smaller procedures done here and go to the states (if on Medicare) for things like hip/knee replacements. I’m told hospital care here is excellent. There are assisted living and nursing home facilities also.  Most have good reputations in terms of care and cost. Mexican people in general are strongly family oriented and faithful caregivers. No hospice per se. End of life care takes place at home. 

Housekeeper=$2.50/hr + benefits. Humidity averages 20% lower than in Hillsborough.

I-Infinito posibilidades – infinite possibilities of discovery in this new culture! 

J=Ajijic & Guadalajara are in the state of Jalisco (J is pronounced H).

K=My knees are better but still healing. Went out twice yesterday and feel worn out today (8-10-18)

L=Lake Chapala is the largest inland body of water in Mexico. It is 7.8-13 miles across by 50-55 miles long  and 15-34′ deep. It provides water for the surrounding area including Guadalajara.

M=Market or tianguis. The largest one in the area is in Chapala on Mondays. Small organic market on Tuesdays. Large gringo-targeted market on Wednesdays. (This one prompted me to learn numbers 1-1000 before this trip. Too embarrassing to have the vendor call out the number and not have a clue what it means. Uno-mil…) There is also a small market in the central plaza on Fridays. Big bag of fresh veggies might cost you $3! Who needs a grocery store???

N=Try a glass de jugo de naranja – fresh squeezed OJ). Noise? Count on it. Dogs barking, people talking, radios, horns blowing, vehicles banging over cobblestones, children squealing with laughter and what I didn’t expect – construction and garden care noise. But the craziest thing is trucks that drive the streets with loud speakers blasting recorded announcements advertising gas, politics, repairs, etc. Wait for it…

O=Jose Clemente Orozco. Importante Mexican political muralist with prominent work in Guadalajara.

P=Pajaros. Birds! So many colors and songs. A pair of swallows have a nest inside our terrace. If I talk softly to Mama Parajo when I step outside, she looks at me and settles back down. She is so attentive. Hope to see babies soon!

Q=Queso-Cheese! In many different forms.  Fresh at the markets. Everything is not slathered with melted cheese here. THAT is the US version of Mexican.

R=Restaurantes. There are many. From Chinese to Mediterranean to Thai to Italian to Spanish to vegetarian to, of course, Mexican (in all shapes and forms), to burgers and fries. Our 2 favorites so far are indeed Mexican – Teocintle (ancient grains) and Chili Verde. Pricey and not so pricey. Ask for the bill with “La cuenta, por favor” or a finger writing in the air. Sit and savor. It’s expected.

S=Safety. The #1 thing folks ask us when we say we’re moving to Mexico is – Is it safe??? Yes. There are places you don’t go in Mexico just like in the US. There is petty crime and there are gringos who flaunt their wealth and invite trouble. I guess the big difference is I’m told that you cannot trust the police. While the police in Hillsborough will, on request, patrol your street and even get out and walk around if you’re away, the police here, well, just don’t announce your departure. If they stop you to issue a traffic ticket, say “Thank you. I know where to pay it.” and drive on. Do not hand them your license or get out of your car unless you’re dealing with local traffic cops in dark pants and white shirts. Not my favorite part of being here. Street food is super cheap but you also have to be super careful. Some say only go to the ones where people gather. Some say only go if you see the person handling the food wear gloves to handle the money. Some say – Forget about it!

T=Transportacion. You can get around quite well here without a car if you’re willing to walk on cobblestone streets. Lots of gringos decide to live in El Centro (center of the village) to be able to do just that. Leave a small footprint. There are, however, lots of cars here, even though gas is quite expensive. ($4/G?) We’ve used private drivers to take us to the airport and to little outlying villages like Mazamitla and Tapalpa. There are also public buses (autobuses publico) that run frequently from one end of the Lake to the other. 9 pesos or about 45 cents. And no, they are not the rickety “chicken buses” full of people and animals that we associate with Mexico and Latin America.

U=Universidad de Guadalajara has a state of the art medical school. Many of the doctors in the Lake area trained there. And many US doctors as well.

W=Water. Do NOT drink from the tap in Mexico unless you know for sure there is a good water purification system. Why? Because the pipes are often old and contaminated.  5 gallon jugs of water (garafons)can be delivered for cooking and drinking. It’s OK to brush your teeth with tap water. Just don’t swallow it.

X=xero means dry? Y=Yema (de huevo) is egg yolk. 2 letters that aren’t used much.

Z=Zanahorias – carrots! Some of the best you’ve ever tasted. Beautiful and plentiful.  Zapatos. Shoes. Wear good ones! Walking on cobblestones and uneven sidewalks is not easy and you need good support. San Miguel is sometimes called “the city of fallen ladies” because of women who insist on style (I’m sometimes guilty.) and end up with broken feet or ankles. I would say “ditto” for Ajijic. Forget your flip-flops!

Those of you who know me know that my license plate says “LETTINGO”. It has been that way for years. Little did I know.

Visiting Mexico in January 2017 was an eye opener for a lifelong romantic. The idea of living in an exotic foreign country excited me to no end.  San Miguel de Allende (our first destination) is MAGICO! It is a Spanish colonial city and a World UNESCO Heritage site buzzing with life. But in reality, we knew it was becoming too expensive, too densely populated, and has hot summers/cold winters.

Let it go.  Find another place.  Europe?  Too far.  Too expensive.  So we made contacts that led us to this village of Ajijic.  Perfect.  Lots of expats.  Lake Chapala Society to guide us.  Don’t have to speak Spanish but plenty of opportunities to learn.  Perfect climate – temperate, mild winters and summers.  (Except for the month of May which they say is quite hot and many people who can leave for the month.) Paradise found.

With each consecutive visit, we find more and more expats moving here. Rentals are harder to find unless you book 6 months out – which we realized too late!  Properties are available – but you better have at least $350,000 to spend for a 2 B/B with no extras.  Want a view?  You’ll pay big time.  Let it go.  Can you dream it and then manifest it? Who knows. Can you find a balance between fantasy and reality? Who knows.  That being said, we both stand amazed at how many doors have opened for us up to this point. How many interesting, kind, and accepting people we’ve met.

A couple of months ago Ben decided we couldn’t wait until September to find a place for December as a couple of realtors had recommended.  He spent hours on Airbnb until he found what seemed a small, acceptable condo in a town we’d been to west of Ajijic.  With public transportation (9 pesos – about 50 cents per trip) it should be doable.  He booked it for 2 months then added 3 weeks (already taken after that) and we felt like we had a good starting point.  We could spend that time exploring the little village of San Juan Cosala AND find a long-term rental for later.

The owner of the condo who lives in Guadalajara – an hour away – agreed to pick us up and take us to see the place.  Very sweet young woman who speaks 4 languages, studied in Italy, works for a Mexican publisher and wants to become a diplomat.  The conversation was lively – she encouraged my Spanish but speaks excellent English.

We soon realized that she was driving past the town of San Jan Cosala, into a small, obviously poor area then into a small, manicured gated community.  (I’ve sworn all along I’d never live in a gated community.  Let it go.) We soon met her sister and her incredibly delightful parents.  Her father was so proud of his family and shared stories of their lives and whereabouts as they walked us through the condo and around the grounds.

But the space was shockingly small and the drive much farther than expected.  We found ourselves offended that the address had been misrepresented.  We came back to our apartment in Ajijic (the one we wish we’d reserved for longer) and frantically looked for another place.  NOTHING.  NADA.  Let it go.

Gradually we have both worked through how it would be to live there for 2 1/2 months.  Where would we put stuff we think we need/use daily?  How would we get around?  Where would we shop? All those preconceived notions went flying out the door. Let it go. We wanted to downsize, leave a smaller footprint.  Be careful what you ask for.

Many folks who’ve done this tell us we will have a wide range of emotions, feel crazy, depressed, overwhelmed, stuck.  Seems like we’ve hit a wall right now – what if we do NOT find a place in February? What if our dream hits a dead end?

A dear friend wrote this morning: “Life is good.  It all works out.  It always does.  Nothing is forever..The Universe has a way of providing.  Enjoy.  Transitions are always hard…Life is bigger beyond the walls of where you are living.”  Thank you Norma.

We asked for this.  So let it go.  Let it be what it will be.  If nothing else it is an amazing adventure.

Our new home?

PS: Walking down the street this morning, digging in my bag for my phone, I tripped over a broken sidewalk and was down before I knew it.  Feeling yourself falling and being unable to stop is absolutely terrifying. After a few minutes I was able to move and asked a passer-by to help us.  A nearby Mexican man came within minutes and immediately took us in his car to the clinic 3 blocks away.  A very kind English-speaking Dr. Rodriquez did everything – including an x-ray (negative) – but check me in and out.   I was sent home with antibiotics and the recommendation for 2 days of rest.  The whole experience in the clinic took less than 40 minutes.  The cost for that visit was $1000 pesos-$50!  Thanks to him and to my dear Ben who has been amazing.  Much love. Watch where you’re walking friends. Toes up, heels down, nose pointed toward the ground! My new motto.

Sometime in the middle of the night I remembered to breathe again. My mind has been racing for days – getting here, adjusting, finding our way around. Processing the problems and potentials. Can we do this? should we do this? how do we do this??? whoa…Put the breaks on. Disfruta el dia! (Enjoy the day!)

Night sounds bird songs children playing and laughter in the streets. The old man in the produce store spearheads a shop packed with black plastic trash bags (plastico negro) and children, babes to teenagers; his vegetales looking as tired as he does through his snaggle-tooth smile. The convenience store clerk leaves his counter to guide us around the corner to buy our own trash bags, opening a package of smaller ones to show me the size.  He didn’t have to do that.  The smiling cooing hermosa bebe (beautiful baby) of the owner of the best vegetarian restaurante in town is deeply loved and shows it. A donkey brays nearby and an occasional horse climbs the cobblestone street with its rider. A few stray dogs wander. A gringo with a yoga mat slips insider her door but hears our comments and steps out to chat. Six months here and loving it. We strike up a conversation over breakfast with a couple running a B & B soon-to-be-retreat center. Instant friendships and shared stories abound.

There is so much we want to do in this month that is already flying by.  Chapala market, Tuesday organic market, Wednesday food and artisan market, Jocotepec, Guadalajara, friends to visit, the bakery (panaderia), even Walmart (to see what’s available)…the Malecon, Arbol Magico (my favorite clothing store with goods from Oaxaca). Hiking, coffee shops. So much we don’t know yet, haven’t seen yet.

My clothes stand out making me an obvious gringo (too blonde, right?). Clothes I’ve barely worn after years of nursing. A homeless man sleeps in his stench on an abandoned restaurant bench. Are gringos pushing the locals out or giving them much-needed work-or both? The PK in me wants to make it all right. Not to be part of the problem. Missionary work. Presumptuous. These are for the most part some of the happiest people I’ve ever seen.

I don’t have to decide yet. Or have I already? Processing. Always processing. Rightfully so. It is a lot to digest. It’s 2:30am now and I have finally remembered to breathe……..

We have somehow balanced preparation for a month long vacation with winding Ben’s business down (including orders flying out the door!) for a few weeks now. It takes a lot more to go away for a month than I realized.

Do I have my passport? My phone/cord? Lights off? Trash out? Electronics unplugged? Mail stopped? Books to read? (thank you kindle) Snacks for the plane? Dollars? Pesos?  Am I taking too much? The wrong things? My ticket? (why am I so reluctant to do e-tickets?) Ride to the aeropuerto arranged? (3:15 AM!!!) Do the right people know we’re leaving? (Thanks to neighbors and the police) Is the frig cleaned out? Compost out?  You get the picture!

Friends here have scurried to meet with us to say good-bye (we’re not moving yet guys!) and new friends in Ajijic have asked for our time when we get there. Feels good knowing you have friends in so many places. Thank you everyone.

So just how much Spanish DO I know? Many of you have asked – Do you speak Spanish? I’ve been studying since January from several different sources and putting it to use anytime I can. Thanks to Gladys at Restaurante Ixtapa, Julia on Facebook, signs in English and Spanish and every other opportunity I’ve had. I can count to 1000-last time I was at the Wednesday Market in Ajijic I was a nervous wreck because I couldn’t understand the prices called out. I ended up taking a list of numbers written in Spanish and vendors would graciously point to the right ones. I hope. I trust. Uno, dos, tres…..

Well, it’s another busy day and we’ll be going to bed very early so I’ll say good-bye for now. Nosotros vamos a Mexico mañana, primero de agosto.  I’m leavin’ on a jet plane…..see you in September!

Right! 67 years old today! Feliz cumpleaños to me! (Someday I’ll have to add Spanish to my computer.) The card you see was given to me last Saturday by my dear son and daughter-in-law, thus the date. In it was their love and blessing for our new adventure. And I thank them for that with all my heart.

I’m hoping that when I click the button at the top of this page my blog will go into action. Please note that I’ve spent days (and many YouTube hours) trying to figure this out. I know there will be some glitches but let me know how it looks and “sounds” to you.

This is my journal. This is my life!

“What would my mother say???” She’d never believe I’m traveling to-and considering living in-Mexico!

After finding out the whereabouts of a former massage school teacher we made our way to AJIJIC, a small village filled with expats and friendly locals. Friendlier, smaller and less expensive than San Miguel (though not as architecturally charming). We were off and running.

It all started in January of 2017 when Ben and I returned from San Miguel de Allende after a week of mind boggling visuals. Sitting at the dinner table talking we began to realize that we were BOTH-1) inspired by what we saw, 2) DONE with daily grind, and 3) ready for an adventure.

Continue reading “Endings & Beginnings”