Pandemic Effects: Episode #2

I doubt anything has fascinated me about Mexico as much as the colors, diversity, and creativity of the indigenous clothing.  Before we settled here I decided to make a project of shopping for pieces I could wear on a fairly frequent basis.  I’d love it if I had black hair (I’m a little too blonde!) and could dress like my hero Frida Kahlo, who worn “native dress” to show her support of the indigenous people of Mexico. The love of Mexican clothing has led me to the love of learning about the numerous variations in style and pattern and the women who create them.

The indigenous women of Mexico have historically spent hours, days, months, processing primarily cotton, wool, and silk, weaving it into clothing of many different styles and adorning it with embroidery, designs based on the region they live in.  Somewhere along the way I read that the dress of each region was “encouraged” by the Spaniards during the Conquest in the 1500’s, as a way to identify each indigenous group, but I haven’t been able to find my source on that.  From region to region styles have been affected by weather, religion, European influences, techniques, and availability of equipment and supplies, ie., looms, fibers such as cotton, bark, and agave, dyeing materials such as indigo, flowers, and insects, etc.  Over time the work that was a necessity for daily clothing became a necessity for subsistence. Very few women wear  village costumes these days, except for special occasions.  Their time is spent creating items for sale instead of for daily wear.  The diversity and beauty of the work is now sought after by tourists, businesses, and collectors.

The Mexican states best known for their clothing are Michoacán, Oaxaca, and Chiapas.  Michoacán has many indigenous groups – Purépecha, Mazahua, and Otomi among them.  Backstrap looms are used for making wool and cotton rebozos (shawls).  Cross-stitch embroidery (usually yellow) on checkered aprons is typical of the Purépecha.  Storytelling embroidery does just that on blouses, shawls, pillows, etc.  And deshilado (pulled thread) embroidery can be as basic or elegant as you’d like.

In Oaxaca the women of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec are noted for their densely embroidered flowered tops and skirts made famous by Frida Kahlo. The typical “wedding dress” (or top) made familiar by the hippies of the 70’s is usually white fabric with elaborate embroidery on the yoke, sleeves, and front.  There are cheap versions but authentic versions take weeks to months to create.  Mandiles (aprons) are created in smock, half apron, and pinafore styles, generally made from acrylic fabrics with machine embroidery that may be simple or very elaborate.  On the coast a Mixtec master weaver may take 300 hours to make a traditional skirt, 200 hours for a huipil.  The Museo Textile De Oaxaca created educational programs for weavers that have blossomed into high end expositions, providing much needed income.

Those who’ve been to Chiapas (I haven’t made it yet!) will tell you that the range of textiles and clothing is astounding.  Cooperatives there, as in other states, have been developed to allow the artisans more profit for their hard work, with set prices and the opportunity to be more visible to buyers.  Mothers are encouraged to teach their craft to their daughters so that there is continuity of the traditions of Maya textiles.  Small villages in Chiapas have outdoor market days, some representing more than one community.  Typical findings are long-haired wrap skirts, satin blouses, and chales, or capes, hand or machine stitched.  Dense embroidery of flowers is typical of Zinacantán women, with patterns hand drawn then meticulously stitched by machine numerous times.   In 2015 there were over 1 million weavers and embroiderers in Chiapas, and 2000 sewing machines (MAYA THREADS: A Woven History of Chiapas by Walter F. Morris, Jr.) (Photo below found online.)

So, these too are the artisans I worry about.  With COVID-19 limiting travel, markets and fairs, and other methods of sales, and so many artisans unable to sell online due to lack of knowledge or access to computers, I wonder how many of these women will be able to endure this blow.  Their designs are unique, sacred, personal, and often highly symbolic. For many ONE sale can make a difference in whether their family eats that week, that month.  I’m not sure how to help the indigenous women of Mexico other than to stay well and hope that I can travel to meet and buy from them in the near future.  After all, we’re all in this together!

(There is so much information about the clothing and the people who create them.  I could go on much longer.  But I’ll stop now and leave you with a list of websites and books of interest.  You can also write to me in the comment section if you have questions.  If I don’t know, I’ll find out.) 

TEXTILE FIESTAS OF MEXICO: A Traveler’s Guide to Celebrations, Markets, and Smart Shopping by Sheri Brautigam/2016

OAXACA STORIES IN CLOTH: A Book about People, Belonging, Identity, and Adornment by Eric Sebastian Mindling/2016

Interesting websites: Historyplex: Tradition of Mexican Clothes and Costumes: A Beautiful Riot of Color; The Classroom: History of Mexican Clothing; Everyculture.com. – Mexico; https://relativitytextiles.com/mexican-textiles/

In-depth studies:

https://ethnycorner.com/en/2019/08/24/quelle-est-lorigine-des-fleurs-mexicaines-sur-les-vetements-mexicains/

https://www.getty.edu/conservation/publications_resources/pdf_publications/pdf/unbroken_thread_eng_vl.pdf

Not much of a pandemic related title…or is it?  Through these weeks of social distancing my partner & I have stuck close to home.  No cheating.  Always mask & gloves when we go out for food & cash (an essential item in Mexico).  Being home so much gives you lots of time to think.  Which isn’t always a good thing.

Depression, melancholy, fear, agitation, loneliness….so many emotions arise.  After too many nights with a nightcap & too many days of tears, lethargy, sadness, I realized I had to do something or I was going to sink into my bed or our couch & refuse to move.  So I got up, showered earlier than usual these days, dressed, & sat down at my computer to make a list of projects I could tackle, because I finally have the time.  (And for me, structure is a good thing.)  One of them was to renew my study of essential oils.  It’s been 4 years since I certified through the online AROMAHEAD INSTITUTE.  What better place to zero in on than the emotions this lockdown has raised in me.  And in many others.

What I love about oils is how you can customize a blend for the combination of emotions you’re feeling.  And your blend might be completely different from the blend I would use.  I don’t want to get bogged down here…there’s sooo much information out there.  But I’ll say this: Essential oils are strong chemicals, not to be taken lightly.  They are subtle but powerful & they must be used with caution.  The #1 rule with all oils is – Dilute! Dilute! Dilute!   Please note, also, that I do not advocate ingestion of oils without a very high level of education.  Now, let’s talk.

Essential oils are the concentrated “essence” of herbs, seeds, grasses, trees, flowers, fruits, etc.  The chemical composition of each oil is different & there is the potential to interact negatively with specific medications & diseases.  Also, sensitive skin can react adversely, especially if an oil (a citrus oil, for example) has oxidized because of frequent exposure to air & sunlight.  In short, don’t use an oil without studying it first.  aromaweb.com is a good source.  And I recently found an excellent discussion of quality & storage of oils on ESSENTIALOILHAVEN.com.

Here are two of my favorite go-to books (I have many!) for using oils with emotional issues, both well known authors in aromatherapy:

Yesterday I knew I needed oils to help get me through so I grabbed these books & started reading.  Situational depression in the midst of such serious global issues, causing the delay of my trip to visit my granddaughter in North Carolina, guided my choices.

Gabriel Mojay teaches oils from a Chinese medicine perspective, breaking emotional issues like depression into different categories depending on cause & symptoms.  This time I picked oils based on “fear of an external or known cause” – Thyme linalool – & depression that causes a loss of “ability to motivate, seek, and aspire”.  Yep, that said it.  His suggested oils for that are Bergamot & Mandarin.  All I did was place one drop of each on a small felted wool ball someone gave me & breathe in (deeply) the aroma several times in the afternoon/evening.  The clue that you’ve taken in too much is simply beginning to feel a headache or nausea.  If you experience these symptoms, just back off. I must tell you that I feel much more clear, focused, & calm today.

My other book led me to a very different list of oils, to be used in three phases as needed. Worwood suggests specific blends totalling 30 drops to be combined with massage oil, placed in a diffuser, or dropped on a cotton ball for simple inhalation.  You can breathe directly from the bottle but I prefer not to open my bottles any more than I have to to protect their integrity.  She suggests Grapefruit, Rosemary, Eucalyptus citriodora (there are several Eucalyptus species), Cypress, Helichrysum, & Clary sage, to be used in different combinations for light, moderate, or deep depression.

I’ve also found myself having mild panic attacks sometimes at night when the lights are finally out & my mind starts cataloguing all the craziness we’re living through right now. Lavender is the #1 first aid oil for that & in this case it’s OK to use it straight, or “neat” as we call it.  So I keep a bottle by my bed now.   All I have to do is open the bottle once & take a couple of deep breaths to calm my “fight or flight” response, or place 1 drop on my inner wrists or my upper chest.  For more serious cases of panic attacks the oils you see in the picture above can be combined in specific proportions to apply in a massage oil or to inhale from the bottle or a cotton ball.  

You probably noticed that I have several brands of oils.  I’ve experimented over the years & these are the brands I’ve stuck with.  Here in Mexico it’s difficult to find oils & shipping costs from the US are outrageous.  That means that any time we’re in the US or someone’s coming to visit us (when will that be???) oils are on my list of must-haves.  

Well, that’s it for today.  I’m happy to discuss any of these suggestions in more detail.  Just send me a message in the comment section.  Don’t self-diagnose depression.  You know how you feel.  Remember my safety comments above.  Don’t forget essential oils when you’re looking for a little help.  Most of all, be safe!

It’s a long way to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, just north of Puerto Vallarta, and part of the area known as Riveria Nayarit.  Much of it is a wide open highway (toll road) but within two hours of your destination are more hairpin curves than I ever experienced in the mountains of North Carolina.  Add a little, and I do mean a little, road construction and you have miles of backed up traffic.  By the time you get there, you’re not even sure you wanna be!  But then there are the views…so maybe every little thing’s gonna be alright.

Temps were quite comfortable most of the time so we spent a good bit of time wandering around outside.  Ben’s sister, Melanie, and her husband Daniel flew down from Oregon to meet us.  They spent their first day on a whale watching tour while Ben and I caught up on some much needed rest.  The next journey for them, through Chuck’s Tours, was up into a jungle village where the villagers are a mix of Spanish and Mexican, self-sustaining, and gracious.

Friday was our last day and a good time to hang out in the water a little bit.  We had tacos at the most popular place in town – Tacos on the Street – then wandered down to the marina hoping to see a show of boats decked out with Christmas lights.  For some reason it never happened but in our wanderings we came across a small, crowded amphitheater with an inaudible slideshow presentation going on.  What?  A young woman quietly walked up to me, put her hand on my shoulder, and informed me that she and her husband were hosting the speaker and she was sorry we couldn’t hear her very well.  It turned out to be Jeanne Socrates, the oldest person (@ 77) to circle the globe completely alone and nonstop in her 38′ boat.  She just returned in September.  A nice triumphant story to end our evening.

On Saturday it was back to the reality of the windy road after dropping Melanie and Daniel off at a restaurant for breakfast before their flight back to Oregon.  I realized as we left how very low key and quiet La Cruz is compared to the business of Ajijic.  (Restaurant owners complained of low business due to Airbnb, etc. making it possible for visitors to cook their own meals.  Truly most restaurants we went to had no more than 2 or 3 tables of customers.)  As for me, quiet little La Cruz was a hit.  Now I know where to go for a little R & R.

I love it when the thread of a story begins to unwind, people step in to add information, “facts” change or are clarified, and my learning expands.  Last Friday I posted my story on the Virgin of Guadalupe, in recognition of her day of celebration on December 12th each year.  My friend Norma Schafer in Oaxaca stepped in with new insights obtained  12/16/18 when she posted her blog on the same topic.  In reviewing that post from last year combined with information she both searched out and requested, the story has changed a bit.

This story is one of syncretism, meaning a blending of indigenous religious, social, and cultural beliefs combined with beliefs of the Spaniards who conquered them.  It was the quickest way to lead the Mexicans to acceptance of the Catholic faith.  As more is learned about that period of time, it becomes apparent that the Spanish would willingly stoop pretty low to rid the country of paganism.  We know now that they destroyed many Aztec sacred temples in the name of their own religion and built their churches on those very sites.  Allowing the natives to keep some of their own symbols and practices made it easier to convert them.  And so, we wonder – were the apparitions of Mary seen by Juan Diego in 1531 “fact”?  Or fiction?  Truly divine?  Or manufactured for the domination of  a “largely disenfranchised population”?

In a 1992 ART JOURNAL article written by Jeanette Favrot Peterson and cited by Norma in her post, the author questions if the image of the Virgin found on the tilma, or cloak, of Juan Diego was actually painted some twenty years later, when the “failure (of the Catholic Church) to eradicate paganism had become patently clear”.  The Church refuses to allow the technical testing that would potentially answer the question.  Was the image that was adopted over time a result of a Spanish-designed Madonna, transformed with dark skin, straight black hair, and a pious posture, then held up to the Mexican natives they so wanted to control, as their own?

Other information from Norma’s “corrected” blog, The Virgin of Guadalupe Revisited, ponders the question of the Virgin really being “Tonantzin”, the Aztec and present day Nahuas’ “Mother Goddess”, one of many of the indigenous dieties.  She postulates that this Virgin that we speak of, this “woman as Mother Earth, Goddess, figure of strength, perseverance, and freedom,” has perhaps become “an icon of the divine feminine in each of us”.  As one woman explained to her, “Not all Mexicans are Catholics, but all (Mexicans) believe in Guadalupe in one form or another”.  Take your pick.  Thank you Norma.

Who IS the Virgin of Guadalupe?

She is such an iconic figure in México, but in reality I had no idea who she was until I started my research.  She is simply the Virgin Mary, mother of Jesus.  Venerated at the Basilica of Guadalupe in México City.  Here’s her story.

On December 9, 1531, a “Marian apparition” was experienced by an indigenous man named Juan Diego on Tepeyac Hill, now a suburb of the capital city.  Over the next three days he experienced the apparition of Mary twice more.  She appeared asking, in his native Nahuatl language and in Spanish, that a church be built on the hill on which she stood to aid in the conversion of the indigenous people to Christianity.  The local bishop was hard to convince until, on December 12th, Juan Diego opened his tilma, his outer garment, and loosed hundreds of Castillian rose petals (not usually found in that area) from inside, revealing an image of the Virgin on the cloth beneath.  Miracles of healing followed and over time she has become the most popular religious and cultural symbol in México.

Juan Diego’s tilma with the original image of the Virgen de Guadalupe is enshrined at the basilica named in her honor, the most visited Catholic pilgrimage site in the world.  The image is of a mestiza (combined European and indigenous descent) with delicate features, hands in prayer, and a pink gown (sign of a new era) over-layed with a blue-green cerulean robe (color of the gods) dotted with eight point stars (from heaven).  She stands on a crescent moon with feathered cherubs carrying the hem of her robe.  A sunburst of straight and wavy gold rays, projected from behind, surrounds her.

Printed accounts of the events and images of the Virgin began appearing in 1648.  Hispanic communities and religious organizations all over the world have adopted this image.  In the Mexican War of Independence in 1810, Miguel Hidalgo led armies with flags emblazoned with her image, as did Emiliano Zapata in the Mexican Revolution of 1910. In 1999 the Catholic Church proclaimed La Virgen of Guadalupe Patroness of the Americas, Empress of Latin America, and Protectress of Unborn Children.  The indigenous people of México associate her with their polytheistic deities, increasing her popularity.  One Mexican interpretation is “mother of maguey” referring to the agave or century plant, the source of the sacred drink known as “pulque” and noting the spikes of the agave plant surrounding her instead of rays of light.

Ajijic author Judy King says the Virgin is a “common denominator” uniting the Mexican people and “the rubber band that binds this disparate nation into a whole”.  Mexican novelist Carlow Fuentes says “You cannot truly be considered a Mexican unless you believe in the Virgen of Guadalupe”.

Our Lady of Guadalupe Day was declared a national Mexican holiday in 1859.  Today hundreds of thousands of people celebrate in Mexico City with candles and special music (see YouTube for “Las Mañanitas”).  But the celebrations are by no means limited to the capital.  The streets in every city, town, and village fill as December 12th approaches.  Feast your eyes on street side shrines, processions carrying the image of Guadalupe to and from the churches, fireworks, food, music, and fun.  In some places there are floats, indigenous dance troupes, charro horsemen and ladies, costumed children, and “coheteros” carrying armfuls of skyrockets, shooting them off along their way.

This is the beginning of a two week celebration for the Mexican people, including Christmas and ending on January 6th, Three King’s Day.  This is México at its best.  Celebrating with hearts full of devotion and love.  Celebrating their Virgen who protects and cares for them.

México is known for its fireworks – bombas, cohetones, and castillos, in particular – and  famous for its noise as well, something you learn to enjoy and/or cope with as a resident of México.  Huge towers (castillos), sometimes over 50′ tall, are constructed by hand and set up on plazas, spinning color and fire into the air and the crowds.  (A neighbor informed me last night that the castillo builders are great craftsman, revered for their meticulous construction. Good to know.)  Smaller versions, timed and purposeful,  awaken the people for the day, announcing mass, and propelling their prayers to God.  Most fireworks are made from scratch in small family businesses with little to no training and frequent accidents.  If you’re brave enough (or crazy enough!) to stand close by you’ll be filled with wonder.  I, for one, can’t usually stay up late enough to catch them and am probably too chicken anyway, but if I’m lucky I’ll see sparks from my faraway mirador.  That is why the picture below is by my favorite photographer of Mexican life, Dane Strom.

Here’s a different perspective.  This week a friend sent me an article from The Philadelphia Inquirer (December 12, 2019).  Female minister, artist, and activist, Katie Jo Suddaby created a Buddhist style sand painting two years ago depicting the Virgin being led away by ICE agents, hands cuffed with a zip tie.   After watching the immigration news on television the temporary painting was meant to raise awareness of the unkindness committed at the border between Mexico and the United States.  The founder of Philatinos Radio, Edgar Ramirez, commented that “it’s impossible to overstate the importance fo the Virgin to the faithful…she literally represents their mother, their faith, their reason for existence”.  The photograph of the sand painting goes viral each time immigration issues rise up in the media.  And from another source, and I quote, “These are deeply held traditions of a people who’ve suffered centuries of oppression yet maintained a cheerful, festive culture”.  Perhaps this explains why baby girls born on December 12th are often named Guadalupe and baby boys are name Juan Diego.  May we all find the bright spots in our lives.    Viva México!

We just celebrated our first Thanksgiving in Mexico!  We were blessed to be invited to our friend Vidette’s house for an afternoon meal and celebration.   Then we invited a different group of friends over on Saturday evening to celebrate again.

Gringo friends invited Mexican friends to join in their celebrations here.  We were invited to a Mexican home though our plans were already made by then.  Maybe next year.  There were plenty of grocery stores and restaurants catering to gringo tastes.  Friends who joined our Saturday celebration even came across fresh (?) cranberries!  Thanks for sharing those with us Len and Diane.  After reading several sources about the meaning and customs of Thanksgiving in México, the following sums up what I found.

Thanksgiving has become a “crossover” holiday.  The number of gringos in Mexico is rising – some statistics say it’s up to a million now – as well as the number of Mexicans returning from years in the United States.  The Thanksgiving holiday arrives a few days after Revolution Day (Dia de la Revolucion), commemorating the 10-year Mexican Revolution which began on November 20, 1910. (See Wikipedia “Revolution Day” for an excellent explanation of this significant holiday.)  Though it is not a national holiday, still a work day, for Mexicans it is another time to spend quality time with friends and family.

Many of the dishes so familiar to us for this special day may very well have had Mexican beginnings.  It is said that the Mexican wild turkey was exported to England, then reintroduced to the US in its domesticated state.  Corn (the Mexican people sometimes call themselves ‘hombres del maíz’; literally: men of corn), pumpkin, vanilla, and chocolate were all introduced from Mexico.

Last year we witnessed our Mexican neighbors setting out a feast on a long dinner table in our small street.  This was several days after Thanksgiving and we had only been here 2 or 3 weeks.  Family gathered all around with music and laughter going well into the night.  I have no idea what food they served but some families here have traditions of chorizo pumpkin soup, candied pumpkin or sweet potato, fruit and nut bread pudding, mango or chile-cranberry or kumquat salsa, stuffed pork, turkey served with green mole and chipotle peppers, guacamole, tortillas and/or tamales.  Depending, of course, on your budget, your location, and your taste.

Thanksgiving is celebrated across various cultures and countries across the world.  In Mexico, the celebration of Thanksgiving is gaining ground and is often celebrated on a more religious and spiritual note.  It is safe to say that the proud and humble Mexican people celebrate everything around them, every day of their lives.  And why not?  We can take a lesson: these difficult times create all the more need for a night devoted to family, friends, food, and a chance to give thanks for it all.  Buen Provecho!  

With this final photo I offer a story of sharing and gratitude for this recent day of Thanks-Giving.  People-watching on the malecón (boardwalk) in Chapala one day last year I saw a crippled old man carrying a checkered bag.  Weak, frail, walking slowly along with his cane, he passed a sardine vendor who, without hesitation, held out a tray of food to him.  The frail little man made a gesture indicating he wanted to pay but the vendor waved him on.  Touched, the old man man left with a faint smile of gratitude.

As for me, I find much to be grateful for this year, though days of fatigue and homesickness still appear more often than I wish.  Ben and I have gathered a fine group of folks we already call friends here in Ajijic.  Friends from the States have visited and now are realizing our landline is a free call to check on us.  (Leave a message if we don’t pick up.)  We receive regular photos updating us on our 10 month old granddaughter Hazie’s weekly progress – thank God for FaceTime!  We have seen some gorgeous places in Mexico and have come to love many of the Mexican people.  We are well fed, warm, safe, and content.  And I figured out enough about the new WordPress update to get this blog out to you, if a little late.  So for this year, and every day of the year, Feliz Días de Acción de Gracias!