A DIFFERENT LIFE

November marked our 2 year anniversary of life in Mexico, and it is in fact a very different life in so many ways.

A year ago last week we moved into our “new” house. I named it “the Hallelujah House” because of its wonderful energy and “open arms” welcoming my weary soul in. It was our escape from persistent daily pounding from the house going up against our outer wall. A house that has only recently been completed. Two days after our move renters Bill & Glynis moved into our little casita for the month of March. Two weeks after they moved in the pandemic hit and they high-tailed it back to Canada. We were in lockdown.

Bill & Glynis

And there we all were. Stunned, overwhelmed, depressed. Some of us in denial. Stuck at home. Groundhog Day…after day…after day. I found myself often curling up on the bed in my room full of purple ( a good healing color) and Mexican crafts, watching Netflix. (I’ve seen a lot of good movies and TV series this year.) Sometimes I’d work on a blog post but as I went out less often (just for food and cash) I had, of course, fewer photos and less to write about. And less motivation. We are blessed and I know it. To be in this house with its beautiful view, nice neighbors, and everything we need. Still, it’s been hard for most all of us around the world, if on different levels.

From our lime tree

Locals rallied here to set up meal delivery and veggie and fruit delivery to help keep things rolling. Markets closed but quickly reopened with new hygiene protocols. There are so many who’ve lost jobs and loved ones. Many of us reached out to local organizations, artisans (Jesus Lopez Vega below left), our housekeepers (Alba below right), gardeners, & handymen (I told you, blessed) to help things stay afloat. I doubt we’ve seen the full impact yet. Businesses closing. Kids trying to learn something any way they can. They’ve lost a year of learning I’d say.

Ben and I both have some medical issues but we’re taking care of them. Medical care is generally good here and though costs are out of pocket, prices are much lower than in the States. Most doctors & nurses are trained in Guadalajara at world class medical facilities. Still I find myself a bit nervous about starting all over, going from a world I knew so well as a nurse to one where I am the patient & customs are different. It takes time to settle in. Funny how we crave the familiar when we’re stressed.

Here in Ajijic we’re blessed to have many outdoor restaurants, all following Covid protocols. So we’ve been able to eat out, mostly alone but more recently with one or two friends. The covered terraces of our house and the warm days have made it possible to share food & drink here with others in the past two or three months. The view of nature as we sit sharing stories is soothing & restorative for us all.

2020. A tough one for sure. Covid. The state of the world. So intense. Who knew that our love of travel would be squelched by the pandemic. We came here knowing we would revel in traveling across México, delving into its culture. We came here believing we would be able to return to NC at least twice a year to see family and friends, to see our sweet granddaughter Hazie turn 1, then 2. (Will she be 3 before we see her again?) There’ve been days I’ve been filled with grief, for life and loss, some days caught up in grieving for so many who have lost loved ones or jobs, friends who are quite ill, the disconnect between politicians and people, the Earth and its decline (temporarily masked by the strike of the pandemic), and the harm people cause to each other. As well as the loss of identity related to my work as a nurse and Ben’s career as a craftsman for so many years. Though we chose to leave the US, it has been a huge adjustment in many ways, leaving us emotionally and physically exhausted beyond understanding some days. Adding a pandemic to that mix has often been overwhelming. But it’s getting easier day by day.

Now there is hope it seems. The world is opening up a little. The fog is lifting, as they say. As I look around, begin to get out a bit, talk to friends more, feel the warm Mexican sun on my face, enjoy our little pool, our sweet dog Tumi, and working in our small yard, I am grateful for all I have. I don’t mind wearing masks, washing my hands more often, avoiding crowds. It is a sign of respect for my fellowman. We walk Tumi every morning through nearby neighborhoods, greeting other dog walkers along the way. Talking to Mexican friends Thomas & Dessy who help me with my Spanish & share news about their lives. Saying Hi to my “pet” iguanas climbing out of the stone wall drain. I’ve named them Pedro & Lillie. Don’t ask me why. But it makes me smile. Down at the corner by the main road a group of men gather most mornings next to a cow & her calf, drinking a mix of fresh milk, tequila & Nescafe. They flash silly grins in greeting as we pass by. Not my idea of a good breakfast. Like I said, a different life.

Somewhere along the way I decided to let go of many of the expectations I have of myself and everyone (poor Ben) around me. The bed doesn’t have to be perfectly made. The floor can stay dirty another day. The decorating can wait. The casita can wait to be occupied again. I don’t have to get everything done. I can just read or write if I want to. I’m more relaxed now, more apt to laugh. More apt to spend time with friends rather than making sure everything is in order. Finally.

So can I adjust to this different life? Most of us are adapting to life with Covid. Vaccinations are running behind here. We have several friends who’ve been sick but luckily all recovered. Many who’ve flown back to the US for vaccines. Will we be able to travel again soon? Most indigenous areas aren’t safe yet. Are we glad we moved here? It’s been the adventure of a lifetime. Will we stay here the rest of our lives? Living this different life. I can’t tell you. But for now, the sun is shining and there is hope around every corner.

Thanks to Ben for my wonderful Christmas present by a local artist

Special thanks to my friend Andree who reminded me that my blog keeps us all in each others lives. If you want to help me continue – posting comes with a cost – any contribution to my DONATE button is welcome! Stay well out there!

FINDING OUR WAY

New house beside our old house
One of my favorites

The thrill is gone. The honeymoon is over. Why are we here? What if we went back home? How can I keep my spirits up? What am I grateful for? Why am I so irritable? Why am I having anxiety attacks with only the worst scenarios at night? I wanted to see México. I wanted to see my granddaughter. I wanted to go out with new friends. And old. When?

We walk every morning because our pup insists on it, because he lives for his morning walk, because he runs circles in excitement when he sees us getting ready. And we know it’s good for us, too. But we dread it everyday. Every day. I read an article this morning about “emotional exhaustion” & ticked off nearly every symptom. No wonder I dread those walks. Even though I know that on some level I’ll feel better when we’re back home. I know that both my body & my mind will be grateful that I took that 4200 step walk through nearby neighborhoods.

An article by Alia E. Dastagir in USA Today, linked through Maria Shriver’s excellent SUNDAY PAPER info@mariashriver.com (01/17/21), lists the symptoms of “emotional exhaustion”:

Difficulty with concentration

Irritability

Nervousness

Frustration

Loss of motivation

Lack of focus

General ‘brain fog’

Feeling disconnected from other people

A sense you’re not effective or competent (even if you’ve been overperforming at home or at work)

Actual problems with performance, including making more mistakes than usual

Physical symptoms can include:

Muscle fatigue & tension

Headaches

Stomach problems

Sleep problems 

I list these to give you some kind of barometer to measure your own symptoms against. There are 3 categories listed as ways to “reset”:

Set boundaries/Don’t try to be a superhero/Figure out what “refills” you emotionally. All important. And I would add to use techniques like meditation, yoga & deep breathing to keep you in the moment. That’s when I do best.

As long as I’m holding my head above water I’m going to allow this exhaustion. An AA tenet says “the only way out is through” & that certainly applies here. After all, where could you go & not encounter the same issues at this point in time? The ticket is to keep moving. Get off the bed or the couch several times a day & DO SOMETHING. Because often I’d rather not, you know. I’m retired. I have the luxury of setting my own schedule. I’d rather escape into Netflix or Amazon Prime. I’ve seen some great stuff these past few months. And I’ve read a lot of good books, worked a lot of jigsaw puzzles on my iPad. But it’s probably getting out for the morning walk (& contact with friends by phone or email) that saves me.

So how are YOU feeling? We’re all in this together. Come take a walk with me.

I wrote this yesterday & realize I’m feeling better today. Just being able to put how I feel in writing helped. Today I’ve decided to schedule a time to write & study Spanish each day. Maybe that will help. Maybe having a new President & Vice President will help. Maybe 2021 will be the beginning of a better life, a better world, for all.

IT’S CHRISTMAS 2020. WHAT DOES IT MEAN NOW…

Sitting in Mexico, sunshine & blue sky, slightly chilled from the whispering breeze wafting into the open doors & windows (yes, it’s December here too).  Christmas music playing.  For me.  Ben objects but plays it for me anyway.  His memories of this Christian holiday are nowhere near my own pleasant memories.  I am sad for him.  Thinking it through…

In my childhood home, where Dad was a Methodist minister & Mother was often choir director, Christmas was a time for music, gifts, gatherings, lights, & Christmas trees.  Children starred in plays about baby Jesus & Santa & his reindeer. Choirs sang cantatas, Christmas carols, & classics like Ava Maria & the Hallelujah Chorus.  Everyone smiling, in my world at least.

Mother & I made sugar cookies with chilled dough rolled out & cut into shapes with metal, & eventually plastic, cookie cutters.  The sugary dough was yummy – until someone came along & told us all that it wasn’t safe to eat raw egg.  That was the end of scraping the bowl & licking the beaters that had blended the ingredients into a soft, sticky mass.  Fresh from the oven we moved the warm cookies to wire racks to cool then decorated them with homemade icing & sprinkles (gingerbread men scored raisins for facial features) & packed them in decorative boxes lined with wax paper.  A color-coordinated bow & tag completed the packages as we lined them up for their recipients.  The mailman, the trash men, the gas station attendant, the barber, hairdresser, & anyone else who provided a public service to our home & family.  It left me feeling warm & happy, though at that point I didn’t really understand why.

Every December Dad would take me & my brother to a field somewhere to cut down our own tree.  When Phil left for college, I got to go alone with Dad.  I loved it, loved traipsing through the fields with him, looking for just the right tree.  Usually it was on some church member’s land, scattered with a few small groves of trees left after someone some time back had cleared the land for cattle.  The trees were never very big.  Just big enough.  8’ was pretty much the norm.  I remember the last year Dad & I went.  Ambling along Dad stopped in his tracks – Look up! he whispered.   Ahead of us a red fox had stopped in his tracks as well.

We all decorated the tree together after Dad filled the bucket that held it in place with rocks & water & Mother covered it with some tablecloth or scrap of fabric saved just for that purpose.  There were shiny Christmas balls, bells, angels perched on our tree, & sometimes strings of popcorn & cranberries.  The final piece, of course, was the star placed on the treetop by Dad just before turning on the lights.  It was customary to place your tree in a front window for all to view each evening as they walked or drove by.  Our tree would stand for 2-3 weeks, others for months.  Taking it down always signified the end of the magic for me.  Back to the reality of day to day life, back to school.

In this season going to church was about singing & food & gifts & wearing new frocks.  Decorated & sprinkled with twinkling white lights, the sacred building held me spellbound.  What was this feeling that was so different from the rest of the year?  And why so different?

Christmas hymns, long my favorite, gave way to popular songs at home, played either on the record player or by Mother on the piano.  Early on in my childhood folks still gathered to go caroling in nearby neighborhoods.  The joy of the season welled up in my throat, my eyes.  Sharing this energy, moving in unison to bring joy to others, was magical.

Candlelight service on Christmas Eve was always my favorite.  Everyone (above a certain age, I suppose) was given a white candle with a paper sleeve to catch any drippings.  I’m sure it wasn’t safe.  I imagine there were accidents somewhere, sometime.  But for me it was magic to see the church fill with candlelight as we joined our voices in the old familiar Christmas hymns…Silent Night, Oh Little Town of Bethlehem, Joy to the World, and so many others.  Made even more magical for a small girl by the anticipation of Santa Claus & his reindeer.  Had I been good?  What would be under the tree for me?  How would I ever go to sleep?

Early Christmas morning I’d sneak to the tinsel draped tree where the lights were already on as Mother padded into the living room in her robe & slippers.  Christmas music chimed softly nearby.  Dad, who’d read ’TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS the night before, now read, with reverence, “the (Biblical) Christmas story”, as the gathering of kings around a babe in a manger long ago was called, just before handing each of us our gifts.  Shiny metallic paper & ribbons lay scattered on the floor as each package was unwrapped.  Stockings were filled with fruit & nuts, ribbons & bows for my hair, new socks for my brother.  Then we transitioned to the kitchen where Dad made omelette or waffles to go with the hot chocolate we inhaled at the table, holding our dearest gifts close.

I don’t remember how or when I found out there was no real person named Santa Claus.  It must not have been very traumatic for me.  Maybe I just outgrew it.  I’m not sure Dad ever did.  For years after I left home for college & then marriage, he would dress as Santa, hiring himself out (after retiring from church work) to parties & churches, handing out gifts as he Ho-Ho-Ho’d.  Oh, how he loved it.  Eventually he bought an expensive well-made suit, wig & beard that made him the best Santa ever, complete with a twinkle in his eye.  He could’ve fooled anyone!

In 1985 Dad was dying from colon cancer.  He spent that last Christmas on the living room couch.  My ex-husband & I took our son to the local Belk’s store where a photographer was taking Christmas portraits.  Finally, the 3 of us together on film.  We were proud to hand our framed print to Dad when we visited at Christmas.  He was thrilled & chuckled when he said, “Do you have to die around here to get a family portrait?”  Even at that point he loved to laugh.

After Dad died & Mother moved into a little house in Louisville, KY, to be near my brother & his family, she yearned for all of us to be together at Christmastime.  Once, when my son was a teenager, we made it happen.  My brother & his family, me & mine, all piling into the small house our Mother called home.  It was a joyous time, one of the highlights of my mother’s life I dare say.  The smile on her face, her arms raised with hands clasped together as we all arrived at her door, are images etched in my mind forever.

During my 32 years of marriage we always had a tree decorated for Christmas.  Early on I made gifts for everyone but once I’d started nursing school, then went to work, all that ended.  I joined the rat race of shoppers, looking mostly for practical gifts & eventually for the latest toy or pair of shoes (Jordan’s) for my son.  There was no church in our lives, no Christmas music unless we set the radio to just the right station or played some leftover Christmas album.  Gradually it became a task (rather than a joy) to organize gifts & travel to one place or another.  Often I only had 1 day off of work, if I was lucky, so travel was less & less of an option.  My world of Christmas hung by a thread.

When I moved to Hillsborough to be with Ben he took me to an afternoon event of a Christmas sing along & my heart soared.  I was in my element, my magical world again!  In Virginia his large family gathered to celebrate.  I thought of my mother & how she would love to have been there with us. In Hillsborough the tradition I’d grown up with of having a real tree was displaced by a handcrafted curled metal table tree that could only hold a few ornaments. We made up for it with lights strung inside & out.  Gradually I collected ornaments with birds & pine cones to hang alongside my snowman set, a gift from my first nursing workplace, & the Hallmark collectables I’d picked up at Deerfield Pharmacy in Boone.  Those snowmen are with me still.

So it’s Christmas in Mexico, where evergreen trees are found only in the high mountains & craftsmen sell sturdy trees made of thick twigs by the carratera (roadside).  This year we bought one, along with handmade Mexican ornaments & some lights for the tree & terrace.  On a walk one morning I spotted a small spool cable set by the road for trash pickup.  I figured it’d make a perfect tree stand, draped with cloth, & it does.  Every night & every morning I turn those tree & terrace lights on.  My heart soars.  I’m a little kid again, filled with excitement, hope & promise.  Though I’m missing my granddaughter’s first real Christmas (she’s nearly 2 now), I know we’ll see her on FaceTime.  We sent gifts through Amazon. The easiest way from here. But I long to hold her.  I want her to know the Christmas I knew as a child. I’m glad she has parents who love her so dearly.

Where have those feelings, those traditions gone?  Is it all no more than what & how much to buy now?   This winter holiday that begins in July?  How did this happen?

My mind stretches & my heart bursts open.  What does it mean to me now?  Now, finally, with encroaching age & the trauma of the past year, for me it is once again about giving & sharing.  Not the same giving as I did as a nurse where there was so much responsibility tied to a paycheck.  This time it is: Who can I help?  Who can I make happy?  Who can I surprise?  What does the poor Mexican family down the street need?  Who needs a local “getaway” & a hot Christmas meal?  I don’t mind that this holiday sprang up from the birth, fictional or not, of a man named Jesus.  What if it is just symbolic of how to care for each other?  What if the point, really, is to gather together & share our thoughts & gifts & love?  To create memories?  What if there was no Amazon?  No online purchasing?  What would you give?  How would you connect?  What will you & your family & friends remember about Christmas in 2020 & for many years to come?  How will we create more “magic”?

   Happy Holidays!  Merry Christmas!  Happy New Year! 

Feliz Navidad!  Feliz Año Nuevo!

TEPEHUA & ITS TREASURES

Tepehua (tay-PAY-oo-wah) is the name of an indigenous population of México, and also the name of a barrio (neighborhood) on the hillside above Chapala. The barrio has a history of drug and alcohol abuse, crime, violence, and disease. Women lack knowledge of nutrition and birth control. Children often lack the proper documents that make education available, limiting their possibilities for the future. In 2010, with so much need realized, a small group of volunteers gathered together and, with the help of the Rotary Club, found funds to create the Tepehua Community Center. The non-profit organization set goals to provide better health, education, and economic opportunities for the residents through advice, counseling, and guidance. Addressing these issues primarily with the women of the barrio, positive changes began taking place. A soup kitchen brought local people in for healthy meals and socialization, with frozen soup provided to those who are homebound, old, &/or infirm. A bazaar provided shopping for gently used items. An education program was put into place, teaching children AND parents to read and use computers. Medical, dental, and maternal health care, even acupuncture, became available at the Community Center clinic, including education on diseases like cancer and STD’s. And over time a program was established to provide fresh, clean water as an alternative to the plethora of easily accessible refrescos (soft drinks) believed to contribute to the rise in kidney disease in the barrio.

My initial interest in Tepehua grew when I spotted well made, colorful face masks just inside the door of the Tepehua Treasures Thrift Shop. When I began asking questions about the beautifully made items stacked on shelves just inside the door, I realized that the person answering me (behind the mask!) was Mary Ruzich, seamstress and friend I had met last year through a neighbor. In fact, our meeting took place – PRE-Covid – on a trip to the fabric district of Guadalajara.

Leaving behind a much enjoyed sewing group in Mazatlan, Mary happily joined the Tepehua Sewing Center that had been organized in 2012. She took over direction of the group over a year ago when its beloved founder Irka passed away. Mary’s career as an elementary school teacher and long time seamstress made her a perfect fit for the job.

Twice a week the highly organized, well-equipped Tepehua Sewing Center hosted a group of ten women who came together to learn business and sewing skills. Mary is constantly listening for opportunities for the women to learn new skills and generate income. In addition to the ever-evolving array of projects, she also teaches them how to do alterations and quilting. Their expertly made products include potholders, eye glass holders, teddy bears, pillow cases, small shoulder bags, aprons, shopping bags, place mats, small zipped purses, the face masks I love, and many more quality items which are sold at community events and the Tepehua Treasures Thrift Shop (in Riberas del Pilar, next to Computerland for those of you who live in the Lakeside area). “It’s all for our children and grandchildren” the women say. Their skills have brought a higher quality of life to all in the barrio, “making lives better, one stitch at a time…”

Enter Covid. The Tepehua Sewing Center classes dropped to half their normal size. When cases began showing up at the medical clinic adjacent to it, the decision was made to close the Center for now and farm projects out to the women in their homes as much as possible. The sale of their products provides much needed income and any disturbance in that process can be catastrophic. Covid has certainly taken its toll, limiting sales opportunities through community events, in addition to limiting classes.

Tepehua Treasures Thrift Shop, is the primary support (no other fund raising is allowed) for the Community and Sewing Centers. They welcome donations of nearly any kind – clothing, jewelry, books, household items – for sale in their store. Monetary donations can also be made via PayPal, check, or cash. Volunteers tend the store Tuesday through Friday from noon until 3 PM. Masks and use of hand gel are mandatory before entering. Hours are short because more volunteers are needed. I recently heard a volunteer explain with great pride the many ways the shop income serves the Tepehua barrio. But here, also, sales are down due to limitations related to Covid. The need is great.

I was lucky enough to visit the Tepehua Community Center this week, thanks to Mary. The large white-washed building proudly sports its name facing the wide cobblestone street. There is not much activity on the street – or in the building. The ample industrial kitchen is quiet and the dining area is lined with stacks of colorful plastic chairs waiting to be put to use again. The bazaar, with its low-priced items, is a bit musty from 10 months of closed doors. The Sewing Center is quiet except for Spanish conversation between Mary and the office manager, Esperanza, working together on a quilting project. Through a rear window I see a hilltop crowded with small concrete block homes. Below, at the back of the building, sits the medical clinic, its van, and the water program building with its new truck. The clinic is only open 2-3 days a week now. A sudden tootoot-toom of a trumpet raises my eyebrows and Mary explains that a family lives in a downstairs casita, acting as caretakers. Their son is learning to play his instrument, bringing the building alive as I stand listening.

Moonyeen (Moonie) King, Director of the Community Center, describes how things have changed this year: “With everything came a sense of urgency… Dental activity was by appointment only so no lines waiting….Food was picked up at the door in packages…and potable water was delivered…The entire organization is working with limited hands on deck or boots on the ground.” Just last week the title of the land where the Community Center stands was signed over to the people of Tepehua, assuring that the Center will be theirs for years to come. Donations from the Rotary Club and the private sector “financially and materially, kept us going” the Director says. There is hope.

And “so this is Christmas…and what have you done?” In the craziness of 2020 so many are in need. Those of us who have so much have the opportunity to reach out to help those less fortunate. Tepehua and its “treasures” have become my cause. Perhaps they will be yours as well.

So “Merry, Merry Christmas! And a Happy New Year! Let’s hope it’s a good one, without any fear.” (John Lennon). Feliz Navidad! Blessings to all.

For more information about the sewing program, or to arrange a tour, contact Mary Ruzich at mruzich53@gmail.com or +1 541 690 2771.

To learn more about the Community Center and the Thrift Shop, visit:

https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tepehua.org%2F%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR2Iq9hyOeffYMQ1Xcnfmaau7fIMYFlOP75jPSCFl1DtZM0uUN1F3lU0xDE&h=AT2M68mK7HcyXcVofLaVn37Zifxr1FmCXHhoOueba7LQH3_qAtU3dmvzxKndvFzYKVhJ3UBTkZRU5wAbHZqsgtm4XsnITkALUm0rg2lNSQnv8qj3ZEBzKwgtzMsle3pO43qWkuoJ

https://tepehua.org

(Thanks to Mary for her time, assistance, and some of the photographs. And to Esperanza & the volunteers in Tepehua Treasures for their co-operation.)

FINDING GRACE & GRATITUDE

Gratitude. Now there’s a word that gets thrown around a lot. There’s even some sort of research proving its value I think. I never could stick with the program, writing down three things in a book everyday. But sitting here on this Sunday morning before Thanksgiving with our doors and windows open (as they have been since we moved in), blue sky, light slightly chilly breeze with only the sound of an occasional car or rooster in the distance, I realize how truly grateful I am.

Two years ago on this date we were packing our suitcases. Our house in Hillsborough was virtually empty and the crates containing items we wanted to hang on to were headed to Laredo, Texas, before crossing the Mexican border. We were excited, nervous, happy, scared, uncertain. Maybe we’d only stay for a year. How would it feel to leave loved ones behind? On November 27th we took flight from RDU to Guadalajara, arriving in a taxi at our little Casa Morada (purple house) as we stepped into a whole new world.

We celebrated our first Christmas with new found friends, anxious to venture into a new year of promise and excitement. Since then we have traveled to several of the many places we want to see: Guadalajara, Tlaquepaque, Tequila, Tapalpa, Mazamitla, La Cruz, Sayulita, Oaxaca City, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacalula, Monte Alban, Zitácuaro, Pátzcuaro, and the artisan villages around its beautiful lake. We have visited gracious artisans in their humble homes and attended the annual Feria Maestros del Arte in Chapala. Our experiences have been unbelievable, leaving us hungry for more.

We have attended festivities in the streets of Ajijic, including Día de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead), Mexican Independence Day, and anything else that deserves a party. We have met new people, begun new friendships, gotten to know our neighbors and learned our way around. I’ve attended Spanish classes regularly while Ben joined the hiking group and a couple of art classes. We’ve obtained our permanent Mexican visas. After two months of hauling groceries up our steep road, we bought a car, took a class, and obtained our Mexican Drivers Licenses in Guadalajara. And so we stretch ourselves beyond our expectations.

We managed to return home to North Carolina twice last year, smitten by our new granddaughter born in January. Moving was an option only because we could travel back to see her and friends could travel to see us. And some have. We hope more will come in the future. Our little casita awaits.

In October 2019 construction began on a house adjoining our bedroom wall. I was nowhere near grateful for that experience. Except that by the end of February 2020, after months of listening to pounding all day, every day, we had purchased a beautiful, well-built house in a small gated community of friendly people. We had plans to visit my son, his wife, and my one year old granddaughter in April. We were settling in. Then it hit. Two weeks after our move. COVID lockdown. Now what.

I had only recently steeped myself in information about the severity of what some call “climate collapse”. Just as I shook it off enough to move forward, along came the pandemic. Like so many others, I crashed into depression, barely able to manage some days. But we did. We found ways to order food delivery, stay in touch with friends, get out and about safely, entertain ourselves with reading, music, and online learning. Masks have become a fashion statement as science learns more and many of us shift into some sense of acceptance of our limitations. We all know this could take awhile. Life has to go on, though it may never look the same.

So here I sit, keys clicking, my mind moving quickly from one scenario to the next. Shifting from the strain of limitations to the joy of gratitude and grace. There are so many here and around the world who have so little. And perhaps there is much yet to descend upon us as the world’s economies lose ground. As the transition of power in los Estados Unidos (the United States) brings such discouragement and uncertainty. Yet each day is a lesson, an opportunity to help others, to better ourselves and our world, to appreciate what we have.

Today I find myself grateful for my partner, Ben, and our sweet pup Tumi; for FaceTime with my granddaughter Hazel, my son Japhy and his wife Toni; for friends who stay in touch, both here and back in the States; for the colors, the artists, and the art of México (and the world!); for the patience and kindness of the Mexicanos; for good food and water and the opportunity to share it with others; for birds singing all around me, for the field of corn behind our house, and the lake and mountains in front. And so much more. I give thanks for it all, and for all of you who follow the stories of my adventures, both mental and physical, in my home of dos años (two years) – México! Ten cuidado! Be safe!

TAPALPA – LAND OF COLORS

The town of Tapalpa lies 1800′ above Lake Chapala at a height of 7200′, nestled in the evergreen forests and rolling meadows of the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains, a favored weekend spot for Guadalajarans and others seeking a cool mountain getaway. Taking the beautiful scenic toll road 54D just beyond Lake Chapala toward Colima through a shallow “dry” lakebed, you see knobby red volcanic rocks partially submerged in shimmering silver water, egrets feeding, and sea birds taking respite on their journey. Some say the lake is a mirage, but these things tell me otherwise.

The name Tapalpa comes from the Nahuatl word “tlapalpan” meaning “land of colors.” We were told fields would be full of flowers and they were. Roadsides going up the mountain were packed with wildflowers spilling over into meadows dotted with yellow sunflowers, pink comos, purple salvia, and scatterings of orange, red, and yellow flowers I’d never seen before. Gorgeous!

Though the Spanish arrived in 1523, Tapalpa was not registered as a town until 1825. In 2015 the census of the town proper was 5,566, with an additional 14,000 in the surrounding municipality.

In 1840 the first paper factory in Latin America was opened in Tapalpa but was shut down in 1923. Its abandoned ruins have become a local tourist attraction. Other attractions include a 345 ‘ waterfall (Salto del Nogal) and a mysterious scattering of huge boulders dumped across rolling fields (Las Piedrotas). Woodland cabins and hiking trails on the mountainsides are popular places.

Las Piedrotas

Unlike many other towns in Mexico, Tapalpa’s architecture includes wooden doors, beams, and ceilings due to the abundance of forest land. Its traditional buildings have white facades with terra cotta roofs and red trim. There are six traditional public fountains (pilas) where people used to get their daily water, some of the six memorialized, others seemingly forgotten as the town has moved toward more modern ways. Tapalpa was the 5th of 83 towns to be designated Pueblo Mágico by the Board of Tourism. These “Magical Towns” are awarded their status based on natural beauty, cultural riches, and historic interest. Like most Mexican towns, shops, restaurants, and, in this case, two churches, outline the town plaza where locals and visitors alike stroll along talking and laughing while children ride bikes and visit the ice cream and snack vendors.

The Temple of San Antonio was built by the Spanish Franciscans in 1650. It is noted for its large vaulted ceiling. The construction of the Church of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe began in 1950 due to damages to the old Temple, which now serves as a museum of sorts. Contributions of the locals paid for the construction of the new church, built almost entirely of red brick.

The old Temple turned museum
New brick church sits adjacent to the old Temple

On a leisurely stroll we rediscovered one of our favorite restaurants, La Cuachula, where regional food is cooked by Gaby and her mother, Gaby. The slapping of hands told us the tortillas were fresh. Best Mexican tacos I’ve ever tasted. Only three tables. Outside. Crazy busy. Afterwards, walking by some village shops, I encountered an elderly lady with a basketful of dulces (candies) and couldn’t resist taking her picture after buying a few goodies. She giggled then bowed her head and crossed herself after kissing the 100 peso bill I gave her. I hope others helped her that day. Tapalpa is well known for its preserved fruits and jams, which we’d enjoyed on our last visit, so we wandered until we found them again. Local pride in displaying their wares is delightful.

From our hotel window and the town plaza we were lucky enough to see Nevado de Colima fairly clearly. This is an inactive volcano and part of a complex of three that includes one of Mexico’s two active volcanoes (Colima) three miles away. Nevado, or Tzapotépetl, is quite impressive at 14,015′.

Since most of our travel in Mexico has to do with the country’s wealth of fine crafts, our next venture was to search for local artisans. I’d seen a wool shop on our last visit and searched for it again. With two woolen shops side by side, I chose the one with the welcoming doorway. The pristine little shop serving as entrance to the family home was filled with handwoven and knitted goods from local wool. Most things seemed too heavy for Ajijic weather until Rosario, the shopkeeper/weaver representing the family of José Delgado, tossed a lightweight throw over my shoulders. Soft as butter. I’ll take it!

Next stop was the huarachero, master of famous huaraches, Nicolás Lizares. We knew it was close so I stopped a shopkeeper in her doorway and asked if she knew him. Her face brightened – Si! She led us around the corner, pointed ahead and used her hands to indicate motorcycle handles. “Vroom! Vroom! she said. Allí (there).” A block away was a motorcycle in front of a doorway. We knocked on the door and as a smiling Mexican woman opened her door for us, a middle-aged man pulled up outside on a 4-wheeler (cuatrimotos are the perfect vehicle for zipping around the countryside), dressed in “farm clothes” and a Harley-Davidson cap. We’d found our man.

We never asked his name, though we knew he was not the older man in the picture I’d found earlier. Here was the son of the Master. Trained by his now absent (?) father. He spoke no English but his son-in-law did and kindly interpreted for us. The studio was a mess but the huarachero was jovial and charming. Though he only makes huaraches to order, a few samples sat nearby. Ben picked out a style and color, the huarachero drew a pattern of his foot, Ben wrote his contact information inside the lines, and delivery was promised within three weeks.

There is something quite amazing about visiting artisans in their home studios. It is a connection like no other. I come closer and closer to buying only from them whenever possible. Supporting them brings me joy and the energy of these handmade items, with traditions stretching back for decades, is unmatched by any store-bought item.

Two nights in Tapalpa isn’t nearly enough, but in this time of Covid it was a good way to get our traveling feet wet. The ride home was a quiet one, filled with sights of the gorgeous landscape of Mexico. I’ll be glad when we can venture out even further, but this was a good start.

DIÁS de LOS MUERTOS

All public activities for this important Mexican holiday have been canceled this year (2020). This year people will celebrate in their homes. Just when we need festivities, Covid dictates otherwise. So please enjoy a look at last years event. But first, let’s review a little history.

In the 16th century Catholic priests from the conquering country of Spain realized that the way to win indigenous Mexican people over to Catholicism was to include some of their rituals in the Catholic practices. The dates of October 31st through November 2nd coincide with the Catholic feast days of All Saints and All Souls. Aztecs did not mourn the departed but considered their deaths part of the cycle of life. Tombs were often built under houses so the deceased loved ones remained close. Skeletons, skulls, and toy coffins have long been part of Mexican culture, mocking death. The famous well-dressed skeletons known as Las Catrinas were invented by illustrator and engraver Jose Guadalupe Posada (1852-1913) and have become one of the main symbols of Day of the Dead. Today’s Diás de Los Muertos celebration is a combination of Catholic and pre-Hispanic beliefs and rituals, or “religious syncretism”.

Mexico loves a party and a chance to dress up. Face painting turns anyone in party clothes into “La Catrina”!

Families gather days ahead of time to pull weeds, splash a new coat of paint on fences, and clean up headstones. New “coronas” or crowns, filled with flowers, replace old ones. Pop-up flower stands are everywhere.

Altars, or ofrendas (offerings), arranged in homes and businesses, are another classic symbol of Días de Los Muertos. There are many elements to these often complex altars and each one is individualized as well. (Some actually refer to the four elements in relation to the altars: water, wind, Earth, and fire. You will find representatives of each in the following list.) Outdoor altars often include an “entrance“, 3 or more tiers, the highest representing heaven and holding the photos of lost family members and images of beloved saints. Candles guide the dead to their altars. Skulls, clay or formed sugar (calavera de azúcar or “sugar skulls”), provide a “reality check” and contrast to the jovial atmosphere. Marigolds (cempasúchitl) are the color of the sun and the flower of choice, abundant in fall. Their pungent odor leads spirits “home”. Copal, or incense, is often burned on the altar. Crosses in white, gray, or black, represent the 4 cardinal directions and help spirits find their way. Soap, a basin of water, and a hand towel are laid out along with a mirror, so that the traveling spirit can clean up for the visit. A glass or pitcher of water is offered, along with favorite foods and drinks of those who have passed. Pan de muertos, sweet, eggy breads topped with crossbones, dusted with sugar, and made only in October, wait to be eaten. Often shoes, a set of clothing, and favorite personal items such as jewelry or tools are placed nearby for use by the spirits while visiting their earthly home. Sugar canes are sometimes used to create an arch over the altar or small pieces are simply placed out as gifts. Salt is offered to “cleanse the spirits and purify souls” in the year to come. Some altars include “petates“, woven reed mats placed for sleep and “metates“, the curved volcanic stone on legs where women grind corn and other foods for hours on end. Papel picados, paper flags bearing images of skeletons, flowers, etc., provide color and reference to the element of air.

Ofrendas recognize deceased children and young people (angelitas or “little angels“) said to arrive on October 31st to visit their families. Tribute is paid to famous people like Frida Kahlo and Octavio Paz, as well as local well-known gringos.

Bags of colored sawdust and sand, flower petals, seeds, and beans, are on hand for creating the elaborate “tapetes” (rugs) laid out in the streets and in front of individual altars.

On the night of November 1st families join their deceased loved ones at their gravesites, eating, drinking, story-telling, and singing to celebrate their return. Sometimes bands are hired to play favorite songs of the deceased. I didn’t make it to the cemetery that night but the next night there was still a crowd, until rain started drizzling. It didn’t seem respectful to me to photograph the groups of people gathered but I managed to grab these shots before the rain drove me out also.

Music and food is, of course, part of the whole celebration. I love this picture of some locals gathered before performing in front of the Cultural Center.

We missed the parade and the lighting of the candles recognizing the deceased citizens of Ajijic. Ben was just home from the States and we just couldn’t do it all. (Thanks to my friend Gale Park for the photo.)

Back home, over several days, I created my own altar to parents, grandparents, and pets as I researched the meaning of it all. I’ve been waiting for this for a year. What fun!

So there you have it. Traditions that allow us to remember, respect, and celebrate the loved ones we miss combined with La Catrinas, laughter, and music poking fun at death. Death, part of the cycle of life.

By the way, the migration of the monarch butterflies is believed by some to be the souls of the departed returning to the land of the living. We’ll be visiting them in February (2020). I’ll let you know if I recognize anyone!

Thanks for visiting!

CHAPALA ON THE LAKE

Main Street Chapala

 An emergency visit to the vet this past Sunday morning took us to the nearby town of Chapala. Once we knew Tumi was in good hands and most likely had a less serious issue than we’d imagined, we took off to explore a bit.  Chapala has been a favorite of mine since I first visited the area.  It has a small city charm that keeps bringing me back.

It’s interesting that I could never find a population number for the town of Chapala itself, only for the municipality.  That number is over 50,000 (2015) while the number for the nearby village of Ajijic, west of Chapala, is around 11,000.  It is about 5 miles east of Ajijic and about 25 miles south of Guadalajara, sitting on the edge of Lake Chapala, which supplies about 60% of Guadalajara’s water.  This is the largest inland body of water in México, averaging about 4.5 meters deep, 15 miles wide and 33 miles long.

The name “Chapala” has uncertain origins.  Some say it derived from the Nahuatl name of Chief Chapalac. Another theory is that the name means “the place where pots abound”, referring to the primitive indigenous practice of appeasing the gods by throwing clay pots, spotted with blood from earlobes, into the lake.  The Nahuatl language goes as far back as the 7th century CE and brought us the words chocolate, avocado, and tomato, among others.  Around 1000 B.C. native people drifted into the area.  Chapala became a small fishing village that grew into “summer farms” as colonization began in the 17th century..  Between the 16th and 18th centuries the population was mostly indigenous.  

The town of Chapala was founded in 1538 by a Franciscan evangelist.  In 1548 the adobe and grass church “San Francisco de Asís” was built near the lake’s edge.  By 1550 the population consisted of 825 married people and 349 children.

In 1915, after WWI, Norwegian speculators decided to turn Chapala into a resort town complete with a railway and motorized water taxis.  They planned to build a dam that would dry up enough land to allow for luxury homes, a first class hotel, and a casino.  The railway contributed to the town’s growth until 1926 when the lake flooded the tracks.  After years of abandoned disrepair, a wealthy family bought the old train station, donating it to the municipality in 1991.  The beautiful old building now serves as a museum and small art school. An old train car sits out front but the tracks are long gone.

Old train station

Beside the renovated museum is an artist’s plant and architectural “remnants” store, full of native plants and unusual treasures.   Down the street is the municipal park with swimming pools, tennis and volleyball courts, and an amphitheater.

Garden “remnant”

The town proper is bustling with activity.  Here you’ll find the central plaza and market, restaurants, small grocery stores, furniture stores, and other businesses found in most small towns.  I’m told that on Niños Heroes you’ll find the well-known Fabrica De Dulces Chapala, a small candy factory that’s been in business for over 80 years.  Old buildings mix with new.  Many have seen famous painters and authors over the years.  DH Lawrence wrote The Plumed Serpent here.  His old house now serves as a B & B.  Find out more on https://lakechapalaartists.com/?p=9528

Near the old church the malecón sprawls along the lake’s edge, filled with craft booths, visitors from near and far, and small boats that tour the lake or take you to nearby Scorpion Island (no, it’s not covered with them; just shaped like one).  Vendors wander the malecón with their famous ice cream and twirling voladares spin upside down from a 60′ pole to mysterious flute music.

Feria vendor

Further east past the malecón is the Chapala Yacht Club with tennis courts, soccer fields, a small bullring, and health clubs.  This is the sight of the annual Feria  Maestros del Arte, where a selection of the best crafts men and women in México are invited to attend each November to sell their carefully constructed wares.  For many the Feria provides most of their annual income.  Buyers and collectors come from all over the world to attend this fabulous event.  Hopefully online sales will help some of these wonderful artisans survive without the Feria this year.  Check it out at http://feriamaestros2.com

After lunch I headed for the public bathroom behind the mercado (market).  Not my favorite place but…when you gotta go, you gotta go.  Last time I was there the baño was closed for repairs.  Now it’s unisex!  (And I thought México was behind!)  As I started for the door a Mexicano was coming out.  Was I in the wrong place?  But there on the stall doors were hand-written signs, one for Hombres, one for Mujeres.  I laid my 5 peso coin on the counter and saw a little Mexican boy, maybe 9 or 10, holding paper towels.  With a big smile he picked up my coin, ran outside the open doorway, and returned with a stack of folded toilet paper.  Right.  As I stepped toward the sink he smiled and raised the lever for water.  “Como se llama?” I asked him.  “Fernando”, he said.  “Mucho gusto, Fernando.  Y muchas gracias!”  And that’s Chapala.

Let me add that I have truly struggled with the format of this post thanks to the latest WordPress update. There is much more to the story of Chapala but I’ve struggled long enough. Unless I can wade through it or find help sorting it out, it will be awhile before you hear from me again. Thanks for your loyalty! Wish me luck!

WHERE IN THE WORLD…

Where in this world would I be if it weren’t for Ben Dyer?  My life partner.  Did I tell you how we met?  Let’s start there.

In 2002 I was living on my own in a beautiful little cabin overlooking a small stream in the woods of Ashe County, about 12 miles from Boone, North Carolina.  I’d been divorced for two years, bought my first house, and adopted my prize Welsh Corgi, Sir Berwÿn of Bethel.  I was feeling pretty dang good.  Kicker was that I was scheduled for a partial thyroidectomy three weeks after my move, to remove a benign tumor.

The phone rang.  It was my friend Chilton.  “I have a funny story for you.  We have this friend who stays with us once a month for a few days while he goes to acupuncture school.  He lives near Chapel Hill but he wants to move.  He told us he’d been going on Match.com looking for a woman to get to know in the mountains.  He found someone but she won’t answer his messages.  I told him to pull up the profile.  Boone’s not that big.  Maybe it’s someone we know.  And guess what, Chris!  It was you!  Can I give him your number?”  A life-changing phone call to say the least.

That first call happened two nights before my surgery.  I met him 10 days later.  He arrived in my driveway with a big smile and spent the day taking care of me since I was obviously still recovering.  Walked my dog, brought lunch, washed dishes.  That was 18 years ago.  Hard to believe.

We dated for 3 1/2 years long distance.  I was a home health nurse, he had his own handcrafted jewelry design business.  On one of his visits he suggested I consider going to massage school since my nursing job was completely exhausting and my real love was Healing Touch.  “You could live with me and go to Body Therapy Institute.  It’s one of the…..”  He had me at “live with me”.  I sold some of what I owned, including my sweet cabin, filled up a 26′ U-Haul and moved (with Ben’s help, of course) to Hillsborough, NC.  Only the beginning of a big new adventure!

Ben promised to take me to Italy (how romantic!) but it took 12 years to make it happen.  Between his work and show schedule and my school and nursing schedule, we stayed pretty busy.  When Italy finally happened we both realized how much traveling enriched our lives, brought out the best in us.  We took many trips between 2014 and 2018, mostly in the US.  We hiked in Washington state, Bainbridge Island, Victoria, BC, Bryce Canyon, Zion, Canyonlands, Arches, Dead Horse Point, south rim of the Grand Canyon, Durango, Mesa Verde, Ouray (CO); visited Manhattan and Chinatown, Chicago and Oak Park, Seattle, Sisters, Bend, Ashland and the coast of Oregon.  In 2017, having decided not to spend the money on travel to London or Portugal, we spent a week in San Miguel de Allende, México.  I had been to Tijuana and Ben to Oaxaca years before.  When you see the colors of México, he told me, it will change your life forever.

 

If you have read my posts from the beginning you know that it took a lot of work to make this move.  After our trip in January 2017 we began to research locations.  We wanted Mexico but took trips in the States with an eye toward other possible locations.  That September Ben met his sister Melanie in Ajijic, Mexico, a place we’d learned about through our research and conversations with friends.  We returned together for a week in January 2018 then house/pet-sat for friends of Ben’s cousin Gayle for two weeks in March.  We found an apartment in the village for the month of August, determined to decide by then whether we wanted to live there (here!) or not,  It didn’t take long to decide so we started looking for a place to rent, with the aim of moving by December.  We found our Casa Morada, west of town, the last week we were visiting and signed up for renting as of November 1.

Back in NC the wheels started rolling and we spent the next few months winding things up, visiting the Mexican consulate for visas, stopping unnecessary mailings, making financial arrangements, closing down Ben’s business, etc.  I completed my nursing career in May and dived full-time into making it all come together.  In October Ben shut down his business and we had a huge estate sale, ridding ourselves of about 85% of our belongings, most of which we haven’t missed.  By November 27th, 1918, we were living in Ajijic.

Now here I sit on the terrace of our beautiful modern home, looking out at Lake Chapala, the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains, palm trees and terra cotta rooftops, writing this post.  Not anything I ever imagined for myself.  Not anything that I would’ve thought possible without Ben’s sense of adventure and possibility.   We could’ve stayed in Hillsborough, but we were bored, boxed in, ready for a major change in our lives.

Friends & sister Melanie

Ben turned 70 last September and thanks to the generosity of a friend we held a blow-out birthday celebration at her house (her sister’s birthday also).  50 people came!  This year is a bit different.  With Covid restrictions in place, we’re not doing big gatherings.  And we aren’t traveling.  But Ben turned 71 yesterday and we’ll be going to dinner with friends tonight to a special restaurant to celebrate.  Maybe next year we can hold another grand celebration or visit some spectacular Mexican town.  But for now, with so much accomplished in the past 3 years (including the addition of our granddaughter in NC and adoption of our mini schnauzer Tumi), a nice quiet dinner with friends sounds good.

And so, dear Ben, Happy Birthday!  Feliz Cumpleaños!  Thank you for this great adventure!  I love you.

 

THE SPACE…BETWEEN

My favorite contemporary “spiritual philosopher”, Charles Eisenstein, says that we are in “the space between stories”.  We have left behind the world as we knew it, the one we thought would last forever, and we are so steeped in upheaval and change, that we do not yet know the world of our future.  We are in between.

We have a chance now, a huge opportunity, to create a different world, a more beautiful world, one we have perhaps only (or never) imagined.  We have a chance now to come together, to care for each other and Mother Earth.

Here is the Earth I love.9942F6C1-2523-44DA-BF67-78FF2B60FE1C

And here are two stories from my own “space between”:

A few weeks ago we discovered two dogs leashed to a line tied between two trees.  They were on the edge of the field on the other side of the wall behind our house.  We could see them when we walked up to our roof (mirador) and we could hear one of them barking a high-pitched yip – relentlessly.  For 20 hours straight.  Something wasn’t right.  It’s rainy season for us and the dogs had no shelter, no food or water.

I contacted a nearby Mexican neighbor who lives next to the field and asked if he knew what we might do.  Then I saw other neighbors who were quite concerned.  None of us liked the noise but mostly we were worried about the dogs.  One neighbor contacted a dog rescue representative who started working on it right away.

It turned out that the field is rented by an elderly farmer who counts on his corn crop for his own survival.  He’d tied the dogs out to scare away the squirrels that would want to eat his corn seed.  A mystery to us as we could see squirrels scampering through the field, out of reach of the dogs, enjoying themselves thoroughly.  (Everyone has a story.)

The result was that two neighbors bought houses for the dogs then several of us chipped in to buy a month’s worth of food for them.  Around here stray, hungry dogs are such a problem that pet stores will divide up large bags of food and give a special price to the rescue people.  The farmer wasn’t happy about someone (even another Mexican) complaining to him, of course, but within a few days he released the dogs.  The noise and the abuse stopped.  The corn crop is growing.  The dogs have food and shelter.

Like so many other places right now, school is happening on television and online.  There are many children here who can’t afford internet or a device to use for their lessons.  It turned out that our gardener’s children had access to wifi (in a home of 20 people with 8 men working, chipping in to pay for internet service) but no device other than an old cellphone.

I put out a plea on our local Facebook page asking if anyone had a tablet or computer to sell for a reasonable price.  The responses that came in were either complicated laptops or high prices.  Then out of the blue a good friend, who’d just upgraded, cleaned up and donated their “old” laptop to us.  Ben threw in his extra printer and some ink.  César and Noemi’s three children are now able to “attend” school.

After this happened I decided to ask my housekeeper (who speaks no English) if she had what she needed for her three children for school.  Shyly she answered No.  Again I put out a plea for low priced or donated devices.  This time nothing.  So I sent out an email to friends here.  Within days I had enough to buy a simple, new computer at Costco.

I was so excited about giving Alba the computer, including a note listing the names of all who had contributed, that she and I were both almost in tears as I handed it over.  Through Google Translate I was able to ascertain that she does have wifi and knew someone who could help her set it (the computer) up.  Two days later I received WhatsApp messages from each of her three children – en español – thanking us all for the computer.  Tears of joy filled my eyes.  It felt so good to be able to help.

So these are the stories that make up my “space between”, the stories that remind you that we are all in this together, all here to help each other in whatever way we can.  I’m sure you have your own stories.  This could be our new, more beautiful world, where all are equal, where those who have more give more, where we laugh and cry together, smile at each other, and understand that love, respect, understanding, consideration, and compassion are the stories of the  world we have only imagined.  That’s the new world I want to see.

WEB OF BELONGING

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Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

While listening to my favorite philosopher Charles Eisenstein talk about the “Politics of Hope”, including our profound need for community, I found myself experimenting with his string of words, finding ways to make it resonate for me.  “Web of Belonging” is what I came up with.  If you’ve read my posts in the past, you know that community is a major issue of interest for me.  Beneath it all, I believe, is this need that we all have to belong.

Eisenstein discusses how we used to know the people, the animals, and the plants, as well as the lay of the land, in our neighborhoods, our communities.  We knew the “trials and tribulations” of those around us.  We walked, we talked, we paid attention, we spoke up, we helped out.  Now we have what he calls “a deficit of belonging”.  He says our true self is the sum total of all our relationships.  I believe him.

And so I began thinking about all my relationships, both present and past, both here in México and back in the States.  I began to see how interrelated they all are, no matter how far apart, and how important each one is to me in my new life as a retired expat in a foreign country (including my partnership with Ben Dyer, though I’m not addressing that specifically).  And how being here has contributed to my understanding that I already have that community I’ve been searching for.

In a way, it starts here: Ben and I attended an annual cousins party in Virginia in 2017 where he told his cousin Gayle that we were going to Ajijic and thinking of living there. The surprise was that she had been here because her best friend (Weezie) and her husband (Burgess) live here.  She connected us with them, we ultimately housesat for them, and we continue to be friends now that we are residents here.  Then we found out an artist (Judy Miller) Ben had known years ago had just moved here.  We contacted her.  She introduced us to her casita renters Janie and Norman who introduced us to their former co-workers who’d followed them here, Diane and Len.

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Sydney, Diane, Miquel, Adriana, Alejandra, Len

Through gatherings of these folks we met others.  Then we started meeting people moving here from North Carolina (Alex and Meg) and they introduced us to some of their friends (Ana, Gerardo, and Don), some of them from our home state (James and Evan, Ernie and Ritch).  Gringo Dick sells his handmade jewelry at the weekly local market and befriended Ben as a fellow jeweler and mentor.  He and his wife Eleanor have taken it upon themselves to introduce us to others they know, having lived here nearly 20 years.  There are other local friends like Linda Joy and Alex (Facebook friends), Tanya and Jim (from Spanish class).  And those you see only in passing, maybe only once, but you know they are part of your community.

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The first house we moved into was in a small neighborhood with 4 houses in close proximity all rented by gringos, surrounded by other gringo and Mexican families.  We quickly became friends with Vidette (and her friends Patty and Michael), Pete and Gethyn, Bill and Barbara, and have remained so even though we have all moved to other parts of town.  Beto and Shari, behind us then and now just outside the gate, became friends at the same time.

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Beto, Shari, & Lelu

 

Through the Tuesday market we’ve met vendors we now consider friends: Alejandra, Maria, Miguel and Adriana, Nora, Georgina and Peter, María Elena and Gaby.  Our handyman César and his lovely family have become our friends.  We love our dog groomer Joel right down the street, and the sweet, energetic vet Laura who comes to our house.  We walk every morning and look forward to the greetings of the community gate guards and the other folks walking their dogs.  The farmer who plows the field behind our house and the Mexican laborers building a nearby dwelling are familiar to us.  The coffee grinder across the street from the ATM and the juice man in front of the pharmacy greet us any time we pass by.  Owners of small restaurants like Vegan Town (Tulú), Goshas (Fernando and David), and Machi Ma (Jorge and Jessica and their children) and Juan who delivers food for a local restaurant, have all become familiar smiling faces. Francisco from Hidalgo Papalería where I buy cards, Antonio who delivers fruits and vegetables, Gerardo who delivers Costco orders, our pool guy Chuy, and our housekeeper Alba have all become part of our lives here.  Mexicans and gringos living in our gated community and nearby houses have become folks we connect with and want to know better.

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Francisco

Even our trips through the little bit of México we’ve seen have broadened our world of friends.  In Oaxaca our friend Norma introduced us to her landlord and family, and to villagers who then invited us to join in their community celebration last summer.  Our trip to Pátzcuaro and the lakeside craft villages introduced us to Victoria who owns Hotel Casa Encantada, her staff, and well-loved guide Jaime, of Animecha Tours.  In the villages we connected with artisans and maintained Facebook friendships with some, including Nicolas Fabián and his wife Rosario, both potters with love of gardening and cooking.

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Rosario & Nicolas

And so it grows, this web of friendships, connecting with our family and friends from the States.  I’ve stayed in touch with my best friend from high school, Debbie, and recently  had conversations with Elaine in Florida and Margaret in St. Thomas, both former co-workers and now dear friends. I’m still in touch with  fellow Healing Touch practitioners Amenie, in Virginia, and Denise, in Hillsborough, Elizabeth in Washington state.  And former co-workers from my nursing career, Valarie, Marion, Shelton, Michal and Josiah, Cherry, Kelly (all in NC), and Joan in Colorado.  My dear friend Amy (Atlanta) from my early days of marriage is regularly on my radar.  Neighbors from our Hillsborough home, Christine and Blair are still in contact.  Robin, who gave me my first massage practice space, calls and writes regularly.  Mary in Chapel Hill is still in touch.  Onja and Bill in Durham have visited us here twice.

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Onja & Bill

There are others: Diana, Susan, Sam, Mary, Bill and Anita, all introduced to me by my daughter-in-law Toni.  Craft show friends Andy and Kathy, Leigh and Alan, Sydney, Andrée and Dave.  Bill and Karen in California, Ben’s sister Melanie and her husband in Oregon, Karl in Sweden, and even famous writer and Facebook friend, Luis Alberto Urrea, whose posts I respond to almost daily.  And dogs.  Don’t forget our dogs.

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Melanie, Daniel, & Ben

And, of course, my family: son Japhy and his wife Toni, my granddaughter Hazel Grace; my cousins Kay and Debbie (Danny, Kathi, and Pat, too), my nephew Richard and his wife Maria and their children Erick and Camilla. And others I’ve probably failed to mention though their names and faces glide through my mind as I realize that all this time that I have been desperately searching for community…it was right here in front of me!  It’s all in your perception.05D5D43E-C428-4A57-91CE-A4B452F9037C

 

This list of people, whose names I’ve given intentionally, this scattered far and wide council, is my community, my web.  The connection that gives my life meaning and purpose, that keeps me moving forward in this unexpectedly difficult time in our world.  Think about it…who makes up your Web of Belonging?

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DON’T SHARE YOUR GUACAMOLE!

Tuesday July 21st.  Dr. Léon showed up in his uniform shirt this morning, armed with gloves and swabs.  Having your nose and throat swabbed is not fun.  I’ve done it to people in my career.  I know.  He was gentle and kind and it was over quickly.  4 business days of sequestered waiting ahead.

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We’d been really careful since lockdown hit in mid-March.  Up until 3 weeks ago we only went out for cash and groceries.  Our groceries consist mostly of prepared foods from the Tuesday market, weekly veggie & fruit delivery from a a one man operation called Muyaru, and an occasional delivery from our Costco courier.  But after months of canceled ventures and groundhog days, weeks of watching friends wander out (seemingly) fearlessly, we started discussing how to expand our social life, for our mental health.  Surely we could all be adequately careful.

I invited one of our friends to the pool.  She sat on one end with her mask on and I sat 6-8’ away with my mask on.  We made the best of it, talking and laughing for an hour or so.  We were a bit nervous, strained.  But glad for the company.  So Ben and I decided to invite a single friend over for wine.  Then a couple.  But control over mask wearing and distancing didn’t seem possible to the extent we’d hoped for.  We were uncomfortable and had to face it.  Maybe it just wasn’t time for us to socialize yet.

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A few weeks ago, after reviewing my feelings about it all yet again, I decided to accept an invitation for lunch on her terrace.  Masks on except for food and drink.  We didn’t touch or share anything.  And it was good, so good, to feel a sense of camaraderie and inclusion again,  like it might finally be ok to see a friend now and then.  Life could inch forward.  But a few days later that vision came to a grinding halt. My pool buddy was sick.

5 days after seeing her at her home she woke up in the middle of the night feeling lousy, with fever and pain.  A few days later test results were positive for Covid-19.  Her doctor did contact tracing, testing a group of 5 she’d had lunch with.  Friends, including us, jumped in to help with delivering food and calling daily, something she’s quite grateful for since she lives alone.  I contacted my doctor with the information and was told to call back if we had any symptoms, that most likely we would’ve had issues already if we’d contracted the virus.  But we had none.  Until 2 weeks after my lunch date.  

Ben woke up with an unusual dry cough and fatigue.  He called Dr. Léon who agreed we should both be tested, based on our exposure to our Covid-positive friend and Ben’s symptoms.  The next day I woke up with leg pain and nausea. That morning the doctor came to our home to test us.  Test results in 4 business days would push us to Monday but he made it clear we would hear from him on Saturday.  By Thursday we both felt better and were doubtful that our tests would be positive.  Saturday afternoon we received the news we’d hoped for – our tests (and those of the others involved) were negative! Hooray! Way too close to home. 

Now the question is – where did our friend contract the virus?  Should you trust what people say about how careful they are?  Is it careful enough for you?  What if you and your partner have different risk factors?  What if you contract the virus and your partner doesn’t?  What if you’re both sick at the same time?  Have you stockpiled what you’d need to manage while you’re stuck at home?  Do you cut off friends when you know that your time together  boosts your mental health?  (Do they cut you off if they think you’re over-reacting?)  How do you find balance between mental and physical health in the midst of this?  This experience brought home so many questions.  It stopped us in our tracks for a few days and made us reevaluate what the next steps for us should be.  One thing’s for sure – there is no simple answer, as we all know from wading through 4 1/2 months of constantly changing information.  We’re still discussing our options.  Each person has to decide what they’re comfortable with and hopefully that includes the safety of others.  It’s easy to slip up without even realizing it.  Knowing someone who has Covid makes that quite clear.  There have been (thankfully) very few cases here at Lakeside, often making the pandemic seem only a distant cry.  But as in the US, cases in Mexico are rising as businesses open up and people start gathering again.

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Mexico/covidnearme.org

I talked to her today, my pool buddy.  She knows she’s had a mild version of Covid but she didn’t feel well again.  Went back to the doctor demanding to be retested – “I want to know that this stuff is gone!”.  Instead, he found a new symptom.  Wheezing.  He put her on an inhaler.  “I went out yesterday, you know?  After 16 days in the house, I had to get out.  But I knew that it wasn’t safe.  I just didn’t feel safe.”  The intense fear of Covid lingers.  For us all.

As Dr. Léon left our terrace the other day he passed us a smile and a word of advice – JUST DON’T SHARE YOUR GUACAMOLE!!!  He has a point there.  But is it enough?

RETIREMENT – COMMUNITY

 

My hometown!
My hometown!

My first sense of community came with being a minister’s daughter.  Born in Asheville in 1951, North Carolina, my dad started his career with three small rural churches in the villages of Weaverville and Leicester.  The church members became our community.  The country folk took us in, respected, and appreciated us.  Christmas brought us our first “pounding”.  Food.  And plenty of it.  We stored what we could in a shed out behind our hundred year old farmhouse, aka parsonage.  When the shed blew up for some unknown reason, the church members came to our rescue.  We became family to some of them.  Like Miss Annie, whose little white, vine covered farmhouse harbored smells of fresh yeast rolls, homemade butter and jam, and fond memories.

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Over the years I gradually grew away from the church, though it served as our family’s community for many years.  After I married, my former husband and I helped create a food co-op in Boone, North Carolina.  Then that group of people became my community.  We cooked and preserved food together, had regular meetings, built our homes together, went through pregnancy and early child rearing together.  That was forty four years ago and I am still in touch with some of the women in that group.

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Nursing career in the works 1955

When my son started kindergarten, I started nursing school.  In each nursing job over my thirty two year career, my coworkers became my community.  (The same was true for my fellow massage school students, some of whom I still hear from.)  The strange thing was that the more involved I became in nursing, the less time I had for my outside community.  There were (and, thankfully, still are) friends and occasional gatherings, but mostly, for me, there was nothing left to give at the end of my workday.  And that leads me to the next piece of the puzzle of me.

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Massage school 2006

Scarcity.  Defined as “not enough resources…to satisfy or fulfill the wants and needs that every person has”.  For me those resources were/are time, money, and smarts.  I became a “jack of all trades, master of none” because I was constantly moving from one project to the next without really mastering any of them.  Growing up in an atmosphere of scarcity played itself out in the continuous struggle with nothing ever being quite good enough, and more importantly, not giving time to family and friends because there was always so much I had to do.  I developed what some would call ADHD.  So as I sank into my career, eventually adding massage school, Healing Touch certification,  and aromatherapy training, always aiming for self-improvement, to the exclusion of the one thing I needed most…community.

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Healing Touch certification class 2008

One definition calls community “the shared attributes of the people in it and…the strength of the connections among them” or “the feeling of some sense of belonging or interpersonal connection”.  Searching online for more definitions of community, I came across an article called “The Only Metric Of Success That Really Matters Is The One We Ignore” by Jenny Anderson that takes it farther.  Through the experience of her brother’s life and death, Ms. Anderson came to an understanding of what she believes community truly is, and I quote: ” …Community is about a series of small choices and everyday actions:  how to spend a Saturday, what to do when a neighbor falls ill, how to make time when there is none (my emphasis).  Knowing others and being known; investing in somewhere instead of trying to be everywhere.  Communities are built, like Legos, one brick at a time.”

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For many of us the sense of connection with each other has been declining, thanks partly to Facebook and Instagram.  We stay in touch, but we lack human touch, contact.  We need coffee with a friend, conversation on the bus (without devices!), to soothe our social souls.  Research shows that those with weak human contact have a 50% likelihood of dying at a younger age (Holt-Lunstad/2010).  Loneliness pervades our society.  We crave belonging.  “It’s necessary to give to others, so that they will in turn give to us,” quotes Anderson.  Community, she says, is “an insurance policy against life’s cruelty; a kind of immunity against loss and disappointment and rage.”  In these incredibly stressful times, this makes even more sense.

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So here I sit in Ajijic, Mexico, in a small gated community of twelve homes, in the midst of a pandemic, wondering how to create community when I’m told I may only go out for essentials.  Wearing a mask and keeping my distance.  Fearful of what contact with “the wrong person” might result in.  But retirement and lockdown have given me the time (and I’ve taken it!) to ponder, to review my life, and this time community is my priority.  I hope the friendships we touched on our first year here will survive this overwhelming test.  Meanwhile, love your neighbor!

 

 

 

COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE

Jell-O.  That’s right, Jell-O.  We’re talking comfort and convenience so what better way to start then to talk about Jell-O.  Patented in the late 1800’s, after decades of “from scratch” gelatin desserts, the jewel colors and fruity tastes of this time saving product introduced us to convenience.  Finally we had refrigerators, machine packaging, and Home Ec classes.  And didn’t your mother (and hospitals) always comfort you with Jell-O if you were sick?  Quick, easy, pretty, silly, fun.  Even creative.  Think of Tupperware molds filled with fruit salad and nuts, marshmallows, whipped cream and lime Jell-O.

Concerning the evolution of convenience, in the February 16, 2018, New York Times Sunday Review, Tim Wu called it “…the most underestimated and least understood force in the world today…It has emerged as perhaps the most powerful force shaping our individual lives and our economics…Given the growth of convenience – as an ideal, as a value, as a way of life – it is worth asking what our fixation with it is doing to us and our country.”

From labor-saving devices like the automatic washing machine,  the vacuum cleaner, and the weed eater, to Amazon, the internet, and streaming TV, we have systematically erased anything in our daily lives that presents some sort of struggle or challenge that could give life meaning.  We are “…all destination and no journey”, as Mr. Wu says.  He advocates doing at least some difficult things slowly, rather than always being satisfied with what is easiest.

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And then there is comfort.  One online dictionary describes it as “a state of physical ease and freedom from pain or constraint”.  In the decades following World War II, people sought comfort to distract themselves from the horrors they’d endured.  They’d worked hard, suffered, and they deserved both emotional and physical comfort.  It became a preoccupation.  In LABOR AVOIDANCE: The Origins of Inhumanity (2015), author Jon Huer states, “We wish to be free from unnecessary exertion…to avoid labor and reduce toil – especially in the U.S. where comfort and convenience, and now pleasure, have been the most ferociously pursued goals.”  Our fascination with and dominance by computer technology is proof.

 

What I find so interesting is that Ben and I left our home in North Carolina because we felt it had become too comfortable, too convenient.  We were bored, looking for meaning in a way of life that would offer more challenge.  We came to Mexico to immerse ourselves in a culture that moves more slowly, with more emphasis on Community, Nature, and Spirit, and less emphasis on materialism and the convenience of technology.  And it has, indeed, been a challenge in many ways.  Those who follow my blog know that I’ve talked about the learning curve of living here: the difficulty of shopping for the simplest items, the cobblestone streets (yes, quaint but tough, too), the noise, the effort it takes to find trustworthy, reliable help, the lack of HVAC on a cold, rainy day, the language barrier…We wanted a challenge and we got it.

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Women of the Community of Teotitlán Del Valle, Oaxaca

 

Then we found our beautiful house with a fabulous view and a swimming pool, well-maintained, low profile cobblestone streets, and a gate that separates us from the ever-growing trash and construction on our old street.  And we are comfortable.  The washing machine works, the pool guy and the housekeeper come weekly, and our handyman/gardener has become a friend.  Cozy.  Good place to have guests.  Including in the one bedroom casita.  Maybe many things aren’t as convenient, but they’re not so bad.  Amazon MX delivers to my door.

F77CF25E-FB52-4562-B5D1-019F6A1E542FWe’d been in our new house two weeks when The Lockdown started.  We’re stir crazy.  We go out once or twice a week for food and cash, but mostly we stay home.  We’ve both come to count on afternoon pool “therapy” and are irritated if that schedule is interrupted.  We enjoy our newly adopted four year old schnauzer Tomi.  We’re blessed to have this place to retreat to.  Millions have lost jobs and businesses.  Many are hungry.  We are retired.  We have it good, don’t we?  Maybe it’s OK to be comfortable?

 

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I wonder now, the week after the murder of George Floyd in Minnesota, with a “leader” who incites violence and obviously cares nothing for anyone but himself, how much comfort and convenience has brought We the People to this place in time.  If we were a society that recognized struggle and challenge as strength rather than inconvenience and irritation, would we be in a different place? Are we so tuned in to “technological comfort and convenience” that we have lost our ability to stand up?  When the election and the pandemic are over, what will be left?  What will we change?  What will we create?  Will comfort, convenience, and pleasure still be our focus?  Or will we finally see the importance of Community, Nature, and Spirit and realize what we’ve been missing?  It is a strange, strange time to be alive.  There is much to learn.  May our hearts be open.

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LOCKDOWN IN PARADISE

Maybe it’s ending today…this lockdown we’ve all been under (though not all have taken it seriously).  Hair salons, some restaurants, and other “essential” businesses are allowed to open in Ajijic now.  Like so many others, I wonder how it will feel to re-enter the “rat race”, though that phrase has a different meaning in this village of gringo-Mexican mix.  We thought we’d be relaxing once we retired but moving here sent us into a spin of problem-solving, searching, shopping, eating out, attending events, making new friends, and dealing with LOTS of traffic. Not so bad compared to an 8 to 5, but busy nonetheless.

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Then COVID-19 hit.  And here we are.  At first I was nearly ecstatic at being sequestered.  Wow!  You mean I’ll actually have time to do all those things I’ve wanted to do for years while I was working but was too exhausted or distracted to do?  So I’ll dig in, right?  Spanish, books to read, aromatherapy and Healing Touch information to review, mending/sewing, writing in my journal to my son, more yoga and meditation…the list goes on.  Somewhere in my upbringing – probably Depression era parental/Christian work ethics – I became a project driven maniac.  If you aren’t productive, you aren’t a good person.  You aren’t valuable.  So dig in.  Wrong.  I am just not motivated.  Everyday seems the same except for cleaning a different part of the house.

I made a few phone calls to the states early on hoping to maintain beloved friendships. After awhile I just started sinking into the couch or the guest bed for hours at a time.  The new season of OUTLANDER became my escape, after I made my way through dozens of episodes of 5 or 6 Turkish cop shows.  I tear up at the OUTLANDER episodes since they take place in the mountains of North Carolina.  (Though they were filmed in Scotland!)  My Spanish books are on the terrace, but I’m bored with them.  Can’t stick to it.  Sewing?  Too much trouble.  I’ll probably never make those clothes I cut out a few years ago.  Yoga has been replaced by…oh, yeah!  I forgot to tell you we decided to get a dog.

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There are an amazing number of street dogs, puppies, and abandoned mutts here.  It’s sad really.  Gratefully, gringos have taken on the task of gathering them up, feeding, neutering, and placing them.  We adopted our 4 year old schnauzer Tomi (like Toni with an “m”) from a young woman who had to move away.  Thanks to him our 2-4 hour morning leisure time with tea, coffee, and iPads has been cut in half, propelling us out the door for a walk before the heat sets in.  About 50% of us walking on the streets are wearing “cubrebocas”, masks, now.  We’re learning not to judge the ones who aren’t, just steer clear of them.  We are all dealing with this in our own way.

Now self-reflection stares me in the face.  While I sometimes worry that I will curl up in fetal position during this lockdown, slide into depression, and never surface again, I find I’m learning more about myself every day.  Wherever you go there you are.  Be here now.  Issues I’ve buried for years are surfacing to be dealt with.  The “letting go” that keeps popping up for me is becoming more of a reality and less of a cliche.  (Thank you Elizabeth Gilbert and Matt Kahn.)  My partner Ben, whom I thought would drive me crazy the whole time (should I move into the casita?), has become adept at listening and asking thought provoking questions.

Like others who’s stories I’ve read, I’m nervous about transitioning back out into the world.  Nervous about a new wave of COVID-19 once everyone drops back into “normal life”.  I know there are many in Mexico and the US who are struggling financially and I worry about them.  How long will this virus run out of control?  How will our lives, our cultures change?  How many of us will just pretend it never happened and learn nothing from it?

I miss my son and his family, my friends, the landscape and familiarity of North Carolina.  A few years ago I asked my daughter in law what she thought about us moving to Mexico.  She looked at me and asked “What will you do if you get down there and you can’t get back?”  I’d never considered the possibility.  Now I wonder – when will I get back?  Will it be safe?  In July it’ll be a year since I’ve seen my granddaughter.  Sadness creeps in.  I miss traveling.  I miss seeing other parts of Mexico.  I miss the color in the streets.  I’m blessed to have mountains surrounding me and beautiful Lake Chapala in front.  A pool in my yard.  Patience is a virtue.  I hope you are, and will remain, well.

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Post note: If you read my last 2 blogs on the effects of the pandemic on Mexican artisans and would like more information on how to help, please go to the Facebook page of Los Amigos Del Artes Popular for some answers.  Also check out “Amazon Hand Made“, FONART, and Dean Miller’s Facebook page “Art & Artisans of México”.  Gracias mis amigos!