ABC’s of Our Mexican Travels

My efforts to learn Spanish led me to the ABC’s…

A=Ajijic, of course. Why? We were ready for a change. Mexico is close. Numerous recommendations. 5200′ elevation. Lake Chapala surrounded by  the Sierra Madre mountains with temperate weather. Rainy seasons bring brief showers that clear the air leaving everything fresh and green. Village people mingle with gringos. Lower cost of living in general – though gringo arrivals are driving rental/sale prices up quickly. Ajijic is “the place where the water springs forth.”

B=Barrio/neighborhood.  Bodega/storefront

C=Cobblestone streets and uneven sidewalks = rough walking. But it is an excellent use of local stones and allows a lot of the rain water to soak into the street rather than flooding it. Holes are eventually repaired with the leftover piles of little stones (or crushed brick) you often see by the walkways.

D=Donas Donuts. Favorite local hangout/meeting place for local hikers and weekenders from Guadalajara. With freshly made donuts of course!

E=Electricity is expensive. HVAC systems are rare. Fans, small heaters and AC window units are used only when necesario-like in May, the hottest month. Mini splits are becoming popular.

F=Fruta (fruit) of nearly every kind is plentiful. Berries are grown in huge greenhouses across the lake in Jocotepec for Dole, Driscoll, etc. The “dregs” -which are gorgeous – are sold here on the streets and in the markets. $7 will get you 3 quarts.

G=Guadalajara International Aeropuerto is about 40 min. away. Known for world class cultural events and skirted by Tlaquepaque and Tonala art/craft communities, Guadalajara is Mexico’s 2nd largest city at around 4.5+ million.

H=There are a few small hospitals in the Lake area and more being built. Gringos sometimes have smaller procedures done here and go to the states (if on Medicare) for things like hip/knee replacements. I’m told hospital care here is excellent. There are assisted living and nursing home facilities also.  Most have good reputations in terms of care and cost. Mexican people in general are strongly family oriented and faithful caregivers. No hospice per se. End of life care takes place at home. 

Housekeeper=$2.50/hr + benefits. Humidity averages 20% lower than in Hillsborough.

I-Infinito posibilidades – infinite possibilities of discovery in this new culture! 

J=Ajijic & Guadalajara are in the state of Jalisco (J is pronounced H).

K=My knees are better but still healing. Went out twice yesterday and feel worn out today (8-10-18)

L=Lake Chapala is the largest inland body of water in Mexico. It is 7.8-13 miles across by 50-55 miles long  and 15-34′ deep. It provides water for the surrounding area including Guadalajara.

M=Market or tianguis. The largest one in the area is in Chapala on Mondays. Small organic market on Tuesdays. Large gringo-targeted market on Wednesdays. (This one prompted me to learn numbers 1-1000 before this trip. Too embarrassing to have the vendor call out the number and not have a clue what it means. Uno-mil…) There is also a small market in the central plaza on Fridays. Big bag of fresh veggies might cost you $3! Who needs a grocery store???

N=Try a glass de jugo de naranja – fresh squeezed OJ). Noise? Count on it. Dogs barking, people talking, radios, horns blowing, vehicles banging over cobblestones, children squealing with laughter and what I didn’t expect – construction and garden care noise. But the craziest thing is trucks that drive the streets with loud speakers blasting recorded announcements advertising gas, politics, repairs, etc. Wait for it…

O=Jose Clemente Orozco. Importante Mexican political muralist with prominent work in Guadalajara.

P=Pajaros. Birds! So many colors and songs. A pair of swallows have a nest inside our terrace. If I talk softly to Mama Parajo when I step outside, she looks at me and settles back down. She is so attentive. Hope to see babies soon!

Q=Queso-Cheese! In many different forms.  Fresh at the markets. Everything is not slathered with melted cheese here. THAT is the US version of Mexican.

R=Restaurantes. There are many. From Chinese to Mediterranean to Thai to Italian to Spanish to vegetarian to, of course, Mexican (in all shapes and forms), to burgers and fries. Our 2 favorites so far are indeed Mexican – Teocintle (ancient grains) and Chili Verde. Pricey and not so pricey. Ask for the bill with “La cuenta, por favor” or a finger writing in the air. Sit and savor. It’s expected.

S=Safety. The #1 thing folks ask us when we say we’re moving to Mexico is – Is it safe??? Yes. There are places you don’t go in Mexico just like in the US. There is petty crime and there are gringos who flaunt their wealth and invite trouble. I guess the big difference is I’m told that you cannot trust the police. While the police in Hillsborough will, on request, patrol your street and even get out and walk around if you’re away, the police here, well, just don’t announce your departure. If they stop you to issue a traffic ticket, say “Thank you. I know where to pay it.” and drive on. Do not hand them your license or get out of your car unless you’re dealing with local traffic cops in dark pants and white shirts. Not my favorite part of being here. Street food is super cheap but you also have to be super careful. Some say only go to the ones where people gather. Some say only go if you see the person handling the food wear gloves to handle the money. Some say – Forget about it!

T=Transportacion. You can get around quite well here without a car if you’re willing to walk on cobblestone streets. Lots of gringos decide to live in El Centro (center of the village) to be able to do just that. Leave a small footprint. There are, however, lots of cars here, even though gas is quite expensive. ($4/G?) We’ve used private drivers to take us to the airport and to little outlying villages like Mazamitla and Tapalpa. There are also public buses (autobuses publico) that run frequently from one end of the Lake to the other. 9 pesos or about 45 cents. And no, they are not the rickety “chicken buses” full of people and animals that we associate with Mexico and Latin America.

U=Universidad de Guadalajara has a state of the art medical school. Many of the doctors in the Lake area trained there. And many US doctors as well.

W=Water. Do NOT drink from the tap in Mexico unless you know for sure there is a good water purification system. Why? Because the pipes are often old and contaminated.  5 gallon jugs of water (garafons)can be delivered for cooking and drinking. It’s OK to brush your teeth with tap water. Just don’t swallow it.

X=xero means dry? Y=Yema (de huevo) is egg yolk. 2 letters that aren’t used much.

Z=Zanahorias – carrots! Some of the best you’ve ever tasted. Beautiful and plentiful.  Zapatos. Shoes. Wear good ones! Walking on cobblestones and uneven sidewalks is not easy and you need good support. San Miguel is sometimes called “the city of fallen ladies” because of women who insist on style (I’m sometimes guilty.) and end up with broken feet or ankles. I would say “ditto” for Ajijic. Forget your flip-flops!