72 IN GUADALAJARA

Well, 72 years of age that is. July 26th was my birthday and I decided to take a day trip that Ben and I kept talking about but somehow never got around to. My friend Robyn and I have a common interest in art and architecture so with Guadalajara, a city of nearly 1.5 million, only an hour away, we decided to make a day of it. Our wonderful driver Juan, a native Tapatio (Guadalajaran) picked us up and off we went. My list was long, taken from an old walking tour guide Ben had picked up from a friend, and I hoped we’d take most of it in. Wrong. Too much to see in just a few places.

Our first stop, conveniently located (thanks to Juan) next to our parking lot, was the Mercado Libertad, an enclosed daily market built in 1958 on the site of the traditional open-air market (tianguis) held there since pre-Columbian times. Though most stalls weren’t quite ready to open, we got the flavor of the place, we got the tacos. And I must say they were some of the best I’ve ever had. The atmosphere was lively, the aromas enticing. After I finished the woman obviously in charge came around to my seat and began, with a huge smile, conversing in Spanish. Luckily I understood that she was asking where I was from. We chatted for a minute then she welcomed me and thanked me for coming. A delightful start to the day.

From there we moved on to the gigantic Hospicio Cabañas (half the size of the Vatican!) completed in 1810 and used as a “House of Charity and Mercy”, a home for orphans as well as the sick and infirm, for over 170 years. The orphanage, which operated into the 1970’s, was moved years ago and this UNESCO World Heritage Site now serves as a cultural center (Instituto Cultural Cabañas), full of art exhibits (painting, photography, fabric), classes and cultural events of all sorts. The big draw for us was the centrally located murals by José Clemente Orozco, one of the 3 great muralists of México (–http://colorinthestreets.com/murals-mexico/), whose work stemmed from political cartoons and the early works of Goya, leading him to “jolt the world awake to the suffering and futility of war” (MOON HANDBOOKS/GUADALAJARA, pg. 32). His murals in the Cabañas and the Palacio de Gobierno (Governor’s Palace) were completed between 1934 and 1940, and are gigantic, thought provoking and disturbing. Hard to believe that he lost his left hand and use of one eye in his early 20’s. An accident in mixing chemicals for fireworks occurred on a holiday when no medical care was immediately available. Obviously it did not stop him. As we were walking from one panel to the next, a handsome young Cabañas employee stepped up to ask if we wanted more information (in English). He was delightful and full of stories and explanations. His last name happened to be Orozco, but, alas, no relation.

We headed out to the scattered but interlinking plazas where statues significant in marking the history of Mexico abound. On the Plaza Tapatia the large “pine” tree seemingly secured by two standing lions (sorry it’s so hard to see) speaks to the ideals of nobility and courage, and are symbols of Guadalajara’s coat of arms.

A nearby favorite of the locals is the Imolación de Quetzalcoatl, a combination fountain/sculture created in 1982. Known as the “big corkscrew”, the combination of bronze “serpent-birds” and central “flame of Quetzalcoatl” is a favorite for families and tourists. To the Aztecs Quetzalcoatl was a feathered serpent, a “creator-deity” attributed with the creation of humanity.

At the eastern end of the plaza is the Teatro Degollado, built in the 1800’s and famed for its classic, columned facade. The building, known for its ever-changing menu of artistic events, was closed when we arrived but the outside was busy with tourists, a small coffee shop, families and those seeking fame (note the matador wannabe).

Nearby we came across a lovely sculpture of Doña Beatriz Hernandez who in 1542 interrupted an important but lingering meeting to insist that the men involved make an immediate decision to found the city on the spot they were in (their 3rd pick) or she would make the decision for them. Brave actions for a woman in the 1500’s.

The Catedral de Guadalajara (which we skipped) is an easy walk from the Teatro and right next door to the Palacio de Gobierno, the home of the Mexican government. Ben and I had been to the Palacio our first year here but I was ready to see the famous Orozco murals housed there again. This time the building was surrounded by portable fence panels and guards. No entry. Lucky for us Juan had an uncle who was once governor. That little tidbit got us a warm welcome and entry into the building.

Over the stairs leading up to government offices you are struck not only by the textures of the stairs and elaborate railings, but by the looming “heat” of Orozco’s murals bearing down on you. Climbing up you feel as if you are right in the middle of the ominous scenes. It was Miguel Hidalgo, father of Mexican independence, who inspired the Mexican people to rise up against the Spanish conquerers. Orozco’s murals show his – and Hidalgo’s – passion for the cause.

On ground level the auditorium where legislation is hammered out is also the sight of an Orozco mural, this time with characters Trotsky and Poncho Villa, as well as Hidalgo. In this mural, circa 1810, Hidalgo is signing a document banning slavery. It is important to remember when viewing the murals of Orozco and his contemporaries Rivera and Siqueiros, that at that time the majority of Mexican people were illiterate, making murals the perfect educational tool.

Guadalajara is an engaging city, proud of its heritage and its contemporary flare, as well as its walkability. There are lots of people, galleries, restaurants and shops. Families congregate in the famous plazas on weekends. The market is open daily with light rail and an occasional electric streetcar at the ready. Like any big city, there are areas to avoid but the central area we just began to touch on is well worth a visit. In fact, more than one. I’m pretty sure we’ll be going back to explore areas we didn’t get to.

By the way, though I was too busy eating to take pictures, as we headed back toward Ajijic Juan took us to his favorite gordita place for my birthday lunch. These are not your Taco Bell version. And the chocolate flan wasn’t bad either! Feliz cumpleaños to me!